Stays

[sakka]

Has anyone made stays? Is it difficult... easy? (I wish!) What pattern did you use? I'm wanting to get started on my 18th century wardrobe, so of course I need the basic foundations.. :) Thanks!

Comments

[smileysweetie]

Umm my mother has, many times, haha. I can ask her for advice, if you'd like. I'm not sure which pattern(s) she's used. Maybe this one. Again, not sure.

I know that, if you need a really basic corset for the time being, until you have your stays made, she likes the ones from Frederick's of Hollywood. Totally NOT period correct, but in a pinch (ie, we're going to Williamsburg tomorrow and the only stays that fit me poke me in the hip because the boning's coming out), they're okay.

[sakka]

Hmmm, thanks! ROFL! We don't have a Frederick's around, and I'm (sadly) not going to Williamsburg tomorrow... LOL :) But it's good to know! :D

[standgale]

see here for patterns (scroll down to the appropriate century), a number of links don't work unfortunately because it's a bit old but should still be helpful.
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/254141.html

Part of whether it's difficult or not - and how long it takes - depends a lot on how you do the boning and boning channels. The two piece stays I made more-or-less like described here - http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18corset.shtml - worked out pretty well. The other styles I'm doing now are going a lot more poorly, sadly. Make a mock-up - you can do a machine sewn partially boned mockup and then do a more traditional, fully boned one when you see it works!
Important point - narrower binding works better than wider binding.
See here also - her recent posts have been on stays.

[sakka]

Thanks for the links! :) I had the Marquise.de one-- but boning, etc is a big step I'm a little nervous to take. But hey, you gotta try sometime, right? :) Thanks again!

[standgale]

doh - I forgot to put in that last useful link - to the person who has been posting about stays on their blog
http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/

[stephsicola]

It's been awhile since I made my stays, but I believe I used

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/

for my pattern generator. While the description says it's accurate to the 16th century, it's still a style used in the 18th. It's important to have the right fit. It was not the hardest sewing project I've had, just very time consuming. I'm fairly new to sewing...only started after I started doing living history. Sewing the channels took the most time and patience. And I machine sewed the binding, which is now coming off because I'm not great with the machine yet. However, these stays are very very comfortable. I wear them from morning til late at night sometimes and never feel uncomfortable. My boning is from Townsend, if you are looking for a source for that.

[sakka]

Hey! Thanks for the link - living history is mainly my reason for sewing as well. I'd never done it before I decided I wanted to reenact. :) I have a 19th century corset so I'm used to wearing it, but of course it's the wrong silhouette.
I'm excited to try this one since it is "custom". Thanks again!

[stephsicola]

Good luck. And this is way more comfortable than a corset! More about support than cinching. :)

[nehelenia78]

http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rococo.html

Scroll down to "Half boned Diderot stays". Easy to make up pattern drafted by me. See German detail page for pics of the finished stays: http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/html/body_np13.html

[sakka]

Thank you! I'll check it out! :)

[mandie_rw]

I like making stays, and I don't really understand why, as it's not as if I like making hand-sewn eyelets nor binding edges! Guess I'm a glutton for punishment... :)

I used the marquise.de site as well; it's got some very good info on other items of clothing as well as stays. (Plus, um, it's all free on there, and I am nothing if not Really Really Cheap when it comes to that!)

And despite the fact you didn't ask (hey, what if LJ for if not putting your two cents in any and everywhere?), I used cable ties for boning in all of my stays except for one experimental pair boned with wood (erm, yes, I've made multiple pairs of stays, see: glutton for punishment, above!), and cable ties are, to me, made of awesome and win. And cheap.

(Also, do you mind if I friend? :) 18th c. is my costuming obsession...)

[sakka]

LOL :) Hand-sewn eyelets? Oh dear :D You must have nerves of steel... ;)

I'm a Really Really Cheap sewist as well :P Free patterns = great. (Not that I would never buy one, but it's easier to try out this way.) I've heard of boning with cable ties. From your experience, it sounds like they're great especially if you're starting out (and Really Really Cheap.. LOL)

I don't mind if you friend me! :) I've friended you! :D