Oww, my fingers hurt just thinking about knitting worsted weight yarn on size 2 needles! More power to you for being able to do that!
I hate to say this, but I am having a lot of trouble visualizing what it is you're making. Are you just making something resembling a blanket that alternates between stockinette and reverse stockinette rectangles? Is this all one piece or pieces being sewn together? Do you have a diagram or something for those of us who are more visual learners?
One piece of warning: Make a small swatch and practice ironing it on a really cheap ironing board. I've heard many, many horror stories of people's boards being ruined because some of the outer layers of the plastic fibers melted into the fabric itsel or irons being ruined by having the plastic melt onto them, and more stories than that about ruined projects.
OH! this is the make the sunken square problem... where the sides/columns push back, but the top and bottom/row-wise don't recede in the same way... right?
I think its not possible -- like MC Escher. The best I could come up with was a row of seed to create a visual boundary to seal off the square/panel.
The change from knit to purl will always have the purl block top and bottom edges rising above the knit blocks because the nature of the purl stitch. The knit stitches are at _____ this level and the purl bump sits on top, thus making the firt and last purl rows appear to be closer than the knit.
And I believe you're compounding the problem by knitting worsted weight acrylic on such small needles. It's going to make an amazingly tight fabric with no give.
Is there a reason you're working such a tight fabric and using acrylic? Changing to a less firm gauge by using larger needles or smaller yarn and to a yarn with more drape may better give you the results you want, especially after blocking.
"The change from knit to purl will always have the purl block top and bottom edges rising above the knit blocks because the nature of the purl stitch. The knit stitches are at _____ this level and the purl bump sits on top, thus making the firt and last purl rows appear to be closer than the knit."
This is true. I was just looking at a very cute hat pattern that has horizontal "stripes" of purl rounds interspersed with knit rounds, and the knit "stripes" definitely fall below the surface of the purl "stripes".
I tend to call that a horizontal cable. I find that it works better if you avoid knitting the second stitch---just slip it. (If you knit it, it will be too loose. If you slip it, it will be a little too tight, but not by that much.)
I do this by going: make 1, then *slip 1 knitwise, then insert left needle from right to left through 2 stitches, sort of as if to k2tog except with the needles switched, and remove right needle. This gets two stitches on the left needle, switched. Slip 1 as if to purl, then knit 1.* Repeat between *s. I like to skip the knit 1 on the last stitch, too---just do a SSK or k2tog.
This is brilliant. It works for the bottom of one of the panels.
But I've thought a few more hours about it and I've got a few things to try. Picking up the stitches and knitting the panel and sewing it in to place. Knitting the panel and sewing it in to place. Run the 7 yarn lengths and darn a new piece in to a place. Place the stitches on a stitch holder instead of dropping them off the needle after working them so just knit up from there. Twinned knitting and then the knit together at the top. It all ends up being a second knit panel over the first like an applique.
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I hate to say this, but I am having a lot of trouble visualizing what it is you're making. Are you just making something resembling a blanket that alternates between stockinette and reverse stockinette rectangles? Is this all one piece or pieces being sewn together? Do you have a diagram or something for those of us who are more visual learners?
One piece of warning: Make a small swatch and practice ironing it on a really cheap ironing board. I've heard many, many horror stories of people's boards being ruined because some of the outer layers of the plastic fibers melted into the fabric itsel or irons being ruined by having the plastic melt onto them, and more stories than that about ruined projects.
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I think its not possible -- like MC Escher. The best I could come up with was a row of seed to create a visual boundary to seal off the square/panel.
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And I believe you're compounding the problem by knitting worsted weight acrylic on such small needles. It's going to make an amazingly tight fabric with no give.
Is there a reason you're working such a tight fabric and using acrylic? Changing to a less firm gauge by using larger needles or smaller yarn and to a yarn with more drape may better give you the results you want, especially after blocking.
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This is true. I was just looking at a very cute hat pattern that has horizontal "stripes" of purl rounds interspersed with knit rounds, and the knit "stripes" definitely fall below the surface of the purl "stripes".
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I do this by going: make 1, then *slip 1 knitwise, then insert left needle from right to left through 2 stitches, sort of as if to k2tog except with the needles switched, and remove right needle. This gets two stitches on the left needle, switched. Slip 1 as if to purl, then knit 1.* Repeat between *s. I like to skip the knit 1 on the last stitch, too---just do a SSK or k2tog.
Reply
But I've thought a few more hours about it and I've got a few things to try. Picking up the stitches and knitting the panel and sewing it in to place. Knitting the panel and sewing it in to place. Run the 7 yarn lengths and darn a new piece in to a place. Place the stitches on a stitch holder instead of dropping them off the needle after working them so just knit up from there. Twinned knitting and then the knit together at the top. It all ends up being a second knit panel over the first like an applique.
Reply
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