If you're interested, I'd read the book--he makes his arguments much better than I could! But I will say that I doubt he's deriding the grocery stores themselves in this passage. He spends most of the book talking about how unethical, cruel, short-sighted and environmentally dangerous agriculture and livestock practices are used to drive down the immediate price, while ignoring the long-term costs (for instance: it's cheaper to let pesticides wash into the river, but then the county often has to pay to clean the river, or deal with all the health problems that result). From the passage I just read, that's what he's talking about.
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