(Untitled)

[akureiyamaneko]

I have a preference for a hatchback, either two or four dour (and preferably a square/90 degree hatch back, not the slopey kind). Also, is there a difference between rebuilding the engine, and rebuilding the engine HEAD? Also.. is it probably okay if the car has over 100K mileage, but the engine has significantly less

Comments

[cybershepherd]

If the add says that the engine head was rebuilt, that is the top part of the engine where most things go wrong like head gasket failure/valve seal leaks causing oil consumption etc. You really have to ask the seller what they did to know if it was the entire engine [bottom end rod bearings/piston rings] or just the head.
From my experience:
Geo's - stay away unless its the Prizm model
Saturns - decent
Hondas - for teh win!!

[akureiyamaneko]

Why avoid non-Prizms?

[cybershepherd]

geo's are just all around crappily built cars. I have worked for an organization that fixes cars for low income families and we almost always send the geo's to the salvage lot. I've driven a fair share of them and they are just scary at speeds above 45, even newer ones with low miles. Its true about hondas having auto trans problems, but as far as engines go its pretty darn hard to kill one. The Geo Prizm is ok because it is a rebadged toyota corolla, so its pretty reliable. A kind of rare car, but a gem is a 1987-1989 acura integra. They are all hatchbacks 2DR and 4DR and the engines run forever. and they are cheep too ^_^

[aerindreah]

honda civics and volkswagon jettas (i think the old jettas are boxy hatchbacks!) are decent on gas mileage if you can find any of those.

i would go for the geo metro, partially because i adore little cars but also because HAY EVERYTHING IS NEW IN IT AND IT'S UNDER $3000. metros only have three cylinders, however, so if you're looking for power, uuhyeahyou'renotgonnagetit. but since i doubt you're planning on racing it or something crazy like that, so you should totally spring for it.

[akureiyamaneko]

I don't really need a lotta umph in a car. My last was a Ford Escort, which was pretty weak and had a top speed of 80mph.

I'm gonna look for a different Metro.. I was urged to avoid rebilt engines and just go for something that's still running well on what it came with.

But yees, small cars for teh win :3

[neo53]

EEK! I said NO SL1s...Only SC1, SC2, and SL2 XD

[akureiyamaneko]

So.. why are cars that old worth so much? I know you're a big Beetle fan..but putting that aside (if you can! XD), why is an old Beetle better than other, newer cars? Is it the vintage appeal, or do they tend to last longer and function better?

(I do especially like the 'best of them all' grey one..oooh).

Also, Ian just asked me this.. how much STUFF can you carry around in one of those?

[neo53]

Why? There are truely different reasons. One reason is because of the appeal, another is that they are cheaper to insure, usually have most/all the kinks ironed out and usually you can get fully or patially restored cars with new engines, and new things like brakes, axels, drivetrains...etc. You litterally know what you are getting - Unlike newer cars, where it is a hit-or-miss if its good or not. Although, you still could have a hit-or-miss with older cars, but I know what to look for in older cars

[akureiyamaneko]

Hm..would it be possible to go see the Beetle with you guys sometime between Fri-Mon?

I understand if you're too busy, though :O

(Oh, and don't worry about talking on tangents on my LF---I find it interesting to read ^_^)

[cybershepherd]

I wouldn't recommend buying a classic beetle, or any car that is 30+ years old for that matter, if you need a practical/dependable daily commuter car.

[neo53]

Are you kidding? The best cars I have ever owned were classics! ;P

[cybershepherd]

Oh don't get me wrong I love the classics too, its just I can fix them when things break down. I'd be simpler to own a newer car for daily commuting.

[neo53]

I have used Beetles for daily drivers, along with my father since he was a kid...and they stand better than ...85-90% of everything I have owned - And I have owned more cars than I am old. I truely think ruleing out something like this because of whatever reason is silly. The economy is awesome, reliabilty is awesome, and VW mechanics litter this state more than chicken pox on a 5 y/o kid! Let alone, the mechanic I suggest she go to (if she happens to end up with a VW) Bow-Wow...which has been around, for unknown time...they are reasonablely priced, ran by enthusiasts for the enthusiast and daily driver. I have worked with them for years, and every one of the mechanics and shop workers (even the owners) drive classic VWs and other german/italian and british vehicles as daily drivers

[cybershepherd]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/car/241861822.html

One of those Integra's I mentioned ouou

[silverfolfen]

So it's gonna run for another 10K before the engine stops holding oil?

Any car with more than 200K on the engine is a horrifically bad investment unless it's a diesel engine, and then again, 200K on many transmissions means that clutches and friction plates are worn quite thin anyway and will more than likely need attention very soon.

[cybershepherd]

Depends on how the engine has been taken care of. The D16A1 in that motor will go forever. Clutch is another factor in a standard.
I had one till 320K no probs holding oil, but alas, its true most cars over 200K are nearing the end of their days

[silverfolfen]

Unfortunately, finding a good used car has worse odds than Russian Roulette does.

The fact of the matter is, people would rather just replace their cars instead of maintaining them past 100K or in the case of just about any small "sporty" import/domestic car, it was pushed hard until it began running poorly and then put up for sale.

I'm the victim of a lemon... My minivan had triple its value in repairs needed before it was fully roadworthy. The shop I went to told me that having someone come in for this sort of work and not having it be recall related was extremely rare x.x