Fashionista Glossary (from
fashionista.com)
Sometimes, we forget that not everyone knows which Kate we mean when it comes to Moss, Lanphear, Schelter or Young, or who they even are. And sometimes, we make up words and talk about obscure fashion mags and people you may have never heard of. So we're sorry and we're making it up to you. Welcome to the Fashionista Glossary. Get your word on.
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Agent ProvocateurThe UK's answer to Victoria's Secret, but more expensive and cooler, because it's British. Founded by
Joe Corre,
Vivienne Westwood's son. Close to Fashionista's heart post-
Faran & Britt debut in Fall 08.
Agyness Deyn [AG-niss deen]
British model-maybe super-best friend of Henry Holland and girlfriend of Stroke Albert Hammond, Jr. Born Laura Hollins, modeled for Burberry, Armani, Hugo Boss, frequent Vogue cover girl, Pirelli calendar girl, and ubiquitous party girl.
Photo by Bruno Dayan (c)
Alber ElbazIsraeli fashion designer, artistic director of
Lanvin since 2001. Received a standing ovation for his
Spring 08 collection, is rarely seen without a bowtie.
Alexa ChungBritish television presenter, former fashion model. Frequently cited as a "best dressed" kind of girl.
Alexander McQueenBrilliant Brit designer, actually named Lee, rose to fame when
Isabella Blow bought his entire graduate collection. Sent a hologram of
Kate Moss down his runway while the model did her stint in rehab. Makes the most stunning clothes Britt's ever seen. Set to debut his Target collection in Spring 09.
Alexander WangWinner of 2008 CFDA award. Popularized sexy grunge with muse, stylist and bff
Erin Wasson.
Alice DellalSocialite daughter of former Brazilian model, Andrea Dellal. Sister of Charlotte and Alex Dellal. Fall 08
face of Mango, Alexander Wang muse (but only after
Erin). Known for a half-shaved head with the other side consisting of wavy blonde, bright red lipstick and a tough-chick vibe.
Ali StephensMormon Teen Vogue darling and former Calvin Klein exclusive. Former face of Chloé, Gap, M Missoni, CK Jeans and Chanel make-up. Best friends with
Karlie Kloss. Signed to Elite.
American EagleA low-to-mid-tier mall brand popularized by Joey Potter.
Amy SaccoWell-connected owner of Bungalow 8 nightclubs in New York and London, and Bette restaurant. Wears Donna Karan a lot. Constantly photographed at fashion events.
André Leon TalleyFriend of Oprah, editor-at-large of Vogue, writes about the shows and his weight loss in monthly column: "Life With André."
Ann Demeulemeester[ann de-MYOO-le-MEE-ster]
Very cool Belgian fashion designer, member of the
Antwerp Six.
Antwerp SixA group of avante-garde fashion designers who graduated from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1980-81 under the direction of Linda Loppa. The piled into a truck and stormed their way into London Fashion Week, officially putting Antwerp on the fashion map. The six are:
Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene,
Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee.
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Behati PrinslooNamibian model signed to Supreme, best friend to Coco Rocha and girlfriend to jewelry designer Jamie Strachan. Named the face of Victoria's Secret Pink line in 2008.
Beth DittoLead singer of The Gossip and a favorite of the British Fashion pack. Landed the first cover of Katie Grand's Conde Nast mag, LOVE.
Bianca BrandoliniWell-known socialite daughter of Valentino's old PR girl, Georgina Brandolini. Sister of Coco, also well-known for parties and what they wear.
Bonnie MorrisonFormerly of KCD PR fame, now the Special Projects Editor of Men's Vogue. Well known for her easy style, which is often showcased on
The Sartorialist, especially during Fashion Week.
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Candace BushnellAn NYC-based writer most famous for her sex column which eventually turned into the HBO series, Sex and the City.
Carine Roitfeld [Officially: Ka-REEN rot-FELD; But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: ka-RIN ROYT-feld]
Editor-in-chief of French Vogue and possessor of the best style, arguably. Often seen in Balmain, Alaia, Malo and Givenchy with the highest of heels and on the arm of her model son and graphic designer daughter.
Cathy Horyn[Cathy HORE-in]
The New York Times fashion critic. Also writes their fashion blog,
On the Runway. Loves Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga, banned from Armani after a less than glowing review in February of 2008.
CFDAThe Council of Fashion Designers of America. The trade organization you want to be a part of if you're designing clothes in America. Awards cash and a mentor to one new designer each year. Diane Von Furstenberg is president.
Christian SirianoWinner of season four of Project Runway.
Christophe Decarnin [Officially: Christophe De-car-NAHN (soft on that last "n"); But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: Christophe De-CAR-nin]
Designer for Balmain since winter 2006, from Paco Rabanne. For more,
read this.
Christopher KaneScottish designer taken under Donatella Versace's wing. Won New Designer of the Year award from the British Fashion Council in 2007, designed a collection for Topshop in 2006 and collaborated with Lancome for a one-off lipgloss.
CluelessAmy Heckerling's 1995 masterpiece loosely based on Jane Austen's Emma starring Alicia Silverstone. Overflows with epic quotes and is basically the greatest movie of all time in Fashionista land.
CobrasnakeThe hipster photographer, "discovered"
Cory Kennedy, Nylon darling and kind of a creeper. Collaborates with Ksubi a lot.
Coco Rocha [Coco RO-shuh]
Canadian model, American Vogue darling, Irish dancer extraordinare, (see Gaultier's F/W 07 runway). One of the only models to
openly discuss weight issues within the fashion industry. Modeled for Balenciaga, Phi, Lanvin and Chanel. Signed to Elite.
Cory KennedyLos Angeles based internet celebrity turned Nylon columnist and TV host. Signed to One, she models for Sebastian hair products and maybe Doc Martens. Proponent of all things baggy and plaid.
Costello Tagliapietra [Costello Tag-lya-PYE-tra]
Surprisingly burly New York design duo and makers of well tailored dresses, Vogue darlings. One of their dresses is in the Met.
Craig McDeanBritish fashion photographer, used to assist
Nick Knight. Married to
Tabitha Simmons.
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Daisy LoweDaughter of Gavin Rossdale and Pearl Lowe, rose to model fame while dating Mark Ronson and posing for
Agent Provocateur and Doc Martens.
Dasha ZhukovaRussian art gallery manager, designer of Kova & T, and girlfriend of Russian billionaire, Roman Abramovich.
Derek BlasbergFreelance writer, most often found on style.com. (In)famous for coming between Jack Mcollough and Lazaro Hernandez of
Proenza Schouler.
Dries Van Noten [DREEs van NO-tin]
Belgian designer, member of the
Antwerp Six, won the
CFDA International Award in 2008. Barneys was the first to buy his collection. He doesn't advertise and he loves to garden.
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Elettra WiedemannAmerican daughter of Isabella Rossellini, Lancome model, New School student, Vogue girl, bff of designer Chris Benz, etc. All around glamorous.
Erin WassonMaybelline model, former muse and stylist to
Alexander Wang. "Designs" clothes for RVCA and
body jewelry under her own label LowLuv. -F-
Fabien BaronCreative Director of Calvin Klein Jeans and Interview's editorial director. The man behind Madonna's SEX book.
Faran KrentcilFounding editor of
Fashionista, currently the Digital Director at
NYLON. All-around funny, intelligent editor/party person.
Fern MallisSenior Vice President of IMG Fashion, former creative director of the
CFDA, she organized the first New York Fashion Week in 1993 and still runs the tents today. During Fashion Week, she is everywhere.
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Gareth Pugh [Gareth PYOO]
London fashion darling, and Central Saint Martins alum, perhaps most fondly remembered for his
rat coat. Scored an internship with Rick Owens, who doesn't take interns. Wow.
The Geldof GirlsPeaches, Pixie and Fifi Trixibelle are the daughters of rockstar and Live Aid founder Bob Geldof and the tragic Paula Yates. Peaches hosts Nylon TV and poses for
Agent Provocateur, Pixie's a UK style icon and Fifi Trixibelle works in PR.
Gemma WardDoll faced (or alien faced) Australian model. The youngest model to land a Vogue cover and the first model to land a Teen Vogue cover. Transitioning into an acting career with
The Black Balloon.
Giles DeaconRather chiseled British darling, bffs with Luella and
Katie Grand, designs dresses that are equal parts punk and girly. Worked at Gucci circa Tom Ford and sent
Lara Stone as Lady Pacman down his Spring 09 runway.
Goyard [go-YARD (soft on that "d")]
French malletier, (luggage maker), actually, the second oldest one ever. Their $1000 logoed bags experienced major Hollywood popularity circa 2005. You can score a vintage trunk for around $28,000.
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HalstonThe label responsible for the look of the 1970s, a look currently owned by Rachel Zoe. And attempted resurrection of the brand has gone less than smoothly under Harvey Weinstein's ownership. Rachel Zoe and
Marco Zanini's creatively directed for less than one year before being fired. No word on who will take up the design reigns.
Harley Viera NewtonNew York Socialite/NYU student. She caught our attention in Marc Jacobs' Fall 07
front row and has since landed a mini-story in Vogue and allegedly, the DKNY campaign.
Harvey NicholsBritish department store founded as a linen shop in 1813 - our version of a candy store.
Hedi SlimaneFormer Creative Director of Dior Homme, the man behind the skinny black suit and the reason Karl Lagerfeld dropped almost 100 pounds. Almost started his own line under LVMH but decided to focus on photography instead, which he's equally good at. The world waits with bated breath for his next design move.
Henry HollandBritish fashion designer, known for his ironic slogan t-shirts. Childhood friends with
Agyness Deyn and self-proclaimed "Fashionista's number one UK fan".
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Isabella BlowBeloved editor, international style icon, wearer of hats and discoverer of
Alexander McQueen,
Sophie Dahl and Stella Tennant. Muse to
Phillip Treacy. Committed suicide in May 2007.
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Jane Mayle[Jane MAIL]
NYC based fashion designer, know for her namesake line Mayle, which recently announced its doors are closing.
Jeanne Lanvin [Jean (like every French "Jean" you've ever heard of) Lan-VAHN (soft on that last "n")]
Started her millinery line in 1889. The dresses she made for her daughter received so much attention that she opened the House of Lanvin and joined the Syndicat de la Couture in 1909.
Jean Patou [Jean (like every French "Jean" you've ever heard of) Pa-TOO]
A french fashion designer most active in the '20s and '30s. Credited with popularizing the cardigan, inventing the tennis skirt and creating the second best selling perfume (behind Chanel No. 5, of course), Joy.
Jefferson HackFounder of Dazed & Confused and Another Magazine. Kate Moss' baby-daddy, married to French model Anouck Lepere.
Jeremy ScottCrazy, cartoony awesome fashion designer - he shows in Paris. Sent Oscar the Grouch down the runway and dresses
Cory Kennedy. Ranked above
Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney on The Face's list of The Most Important People in Fashion.
Jessica StamCanadian model, incredibly successful. Has been the face of Marc (he even named a bag after her), Miu Miu, Prada, and many more. Is known for her walk, The Stam, which is basically a casual strut that many other models seem incapable of doing.
Joe Corre [Joe COR-ee]
Founder of
Agent Provocateur, son of
Vivienne Westwood.
Jourdan DunnQuickly successful British model, discovered in Primark. Best known for becoming the first black model to walk the Prada show (during Fall 08) in ten years.
Julian SchnabelArtist and New York party scene staple, husband to pajama maker Olatz and therefore most likely to wear silk pajamas on a red carpet. And by most likely we mean always.
Julie GilhartFashion director of Barneys New York, responsible for the store's insane popularity due to very diverse stock and its unprecedented support of young designers. Constant party companion of
Rogan Gregory.
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Karlie KlossMidwestern ballet dancer turned into one of this generation's/Teen Vogue's favorite models following a F/W 08 Calvin Klein exclusive. Owns signature "death stare" on the runway and is best friends with
Ali Stephens. Signed to Marilyn.
Kate Lanphear [Kate LANN-feer]
Style director of Elle Magazine. Wears YSL Fall 08 sweatpants like a rockstar.
Kate MossIf you're reading this, go to Jail, do not pass Go, do not collect $200.
Katie GrandOne of-if not the most-important stylists in the industry. Styles Prada, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Topshop runways, etc. Founding editor of beloved POP magazine, editor-in-chief of yet-to-be-released Condé Nast title
Love, and all around fashion superstar.
Kelly CutroneHead of fashion PR firm People's Revolution which reps Sass & Bide and Jermey Scott, among others. She was featured on a season of The Hills when Whitney and Lauren interned at the LA office.
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LanvinSee
Jeanne Lanvin for history. Currently, a French line designed by
Alber Elbaz, lauded especially (mostly by Natalie) for the
Spring 08 collection.
Lara StoneDutch model signed to Elite. Carine Roitfeld's model du jour. Generally loved for her "curves" but really she's just ridiculously sexy.
Lauren Santo DomingoAmerican socialite, best known by her maiden name, Lauren Davis. Kind of works at Vogue, is seen everywhere, is probably best known for her
Olivier Theyskens-designed Nina Ricci wedding gown.
Linda EvangelistaOne of the originals, one third of the Trinity alongside Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. Won't "wake up for less than $10,000 a day" - and that was in 1990.
Louise GoldinBritish knitwear designer, sponsored by Topshop.
Luella BartleyA former fashion journalist, think Vogue and Dazed, now the Brit designer behind every fashion-y girl's dream wardrobe. The first designer to partner with Target for GoInternational.
Lydia HearstWilliam Randolph's great-granddaughter, former Page Six Mag journalist. In fashion, muse to Heatherette, French Playboy cover girl and Gossip Girl Season One guest star.
Lynn YaegerEccentric fashion writer for the Village Voice (
until very late 2008). Known for her bright orange bob, cupid's bow dark lipstick, wearing petticoats in public, and always sitting front row next to
Mickey Boardman during Fashion Week.
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Magdalena Frąckowiak [Magdalena frah-KO-vyahk]
Polish Model best known for Ralph Lauren campaigns.
mandelierA manly chandelier, like with antlers.
Marco Zanini [Marco Za-NEE-nee]
The long-time right hand man of Donatella Versace, went on to briefly (read: barely a year) design for Halston before being fired. Is now being tapped to revive
Rochas label.
Mario TestinoPeruvian photographer. Championed use of Kate Moss and Stella Tennant. Shoots for Vogue American and UK, Burberry ads, Tom Ford-era Gucci ads.
Mark RonsonBritish DJ/music producer/record label owner, boy about town, brother of Charlotte and Samantha Ronsen.
Marni [MAHR-nee]
Family owned Italian label designed by Consuelo Castiglioni. Known for funky colors and prints.
Martin Margiela [Martin mar-jyEH-lah]
Avant-garde, genius Belgian designer behind Maison Martin Margiela, notoriously shy - as in you will never see him but you will love his clothes, even if you don't understand them.
Matthew WilliamsonBritish designer, does not shy away from all things bright, shiny and tribal. Head designer of Pucci from 2006-08. H&M collaborator for Spring 09.
Meredith Melling-BurkeSenior Market Editor at Vogue. Reputation for being the nicest person in fashion, and one of the prettiest. Always looks perfect.
Mert Alas and Marcus PiggottFamous photography duo, often referred to as simply "Mert and Marcus," known for shooting the Louis Vuitton campaign - a relationship that ended with the Spring 09 campaign featuring
Madonna- and for consistently shooting for magazines like Vogue, W and Numero.
Mickey BoardmanDeputy Editorial Director of Paper magazine - hilariously funny, beloved.
Miu Miu[myoo-myoo] (like the word "
mew")
Prada's baby sister. Known just as much for always cutesy, sometimes sexy, very wearable clothes as for famous celebrity faces. [
miumiu.com]
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Narciso Rodgriguez [nar-SEE-so raw-DREE-gez]
Is to Natalie as
McQueen is to Britt. Maker of super sexy, perfectly fitting dresses and well loved by pretty much the entire industry.
Net-a-PorterBritish shopping website, our mecca. The site, started by Natalie Massanet in 2000, sells everything from Louboutins to Stella to Fendi to Marc and revolutionized online shopping. Oh, and your packages come in fancy boxes with big black bows.
Nick KnightAvant-garde British fashion photographer and founder of SHOWstudio.com, an experimental interactive fashion media site. Shoots covers for the cool mags and campaigns for
Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, Jil Sander, Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent and more.
Nicolas GhesquièreFrench fashion designer, best known as Creative Director at Balenciaga, very private.
Nicole TrunfioAustralian model, former runner-up in Ford Model Search. Recently the face of BCBG and Lacoste.
Nina Ricci [Nina REE-chee]
French fashion house founded by Maria Ricci in 1932. In 2003 Lars Nilsson unsuccessfully revived the brand before passing the design torch to
Olivier Theyskens post-
Rochas who makes some of the most stunning, ethereal dresses this century's seen and repeatedly chooses to put them on Reese Witherspoon.
Norma KamaliNew York based fashion designer known for popularizing fashionable sweatsuits and swimsuits with her line OMO. Currently partnering with Everlast and Walmart.
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Odin[OH-din]
Soho boutique favored, ok worshipped, by Fashionista's male interns. They carry Rag & Bone, Trovata, Engineered Garments and Shipley & Halmos. Their sister store, Pas de Deux opened in September 08 next to their rotating concept store, Den.
Olivier Theyskens [Officially: o-liv-YAY TAY-skehn (soft on that "n"); But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: Oh-LIVE-ee-AY TAY-skin]
Became everybody's favorite fashion designer in 2002 at
Rochas. When the label closed in 2006, he went on to make fashion hearts swoon at
Nina Ricci.
Olivier ZahmEditor of Purple magazine, known for a haphazard appearance and sunglasses. Frequently spotted at Cafe Gitane on Mott Street. Also an art critic and curator.
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ParsonsMost famous, maybe most important fashion design school stateside. Division of The New School. Alumns include Anna Sui,
Narciso Rodgriguez and Donna Karan.
Patrick Demarchelier[Patrick de-MAR-shel-YAY]
French photographer. Shot just about everyone and every cover. Sits front row with
Carine, had a cameo in Sex and the City: The Movie and a shout out in The Devil Wears Prada.
Patrick McMullanParty photographer extraordinare. Used to hang with Warhol and now has a team of photographers spread across New York City taking pictures of everyone who's anyone at all the important events.
Peter SomWinner of the Parson's Gold Thimble and
CFDA favorite. Head designer of Bill Blass from July 2007 to 2008 when
he stepped down, despite Anna Wintour's requests. Still designs his own line which is a favorite with starlets.
Philip Treacy [Philip TRAY-see]
Renowned milliner. His headwear's graced runways from Givenchy to Chanel Couture.
Proenza Schouler [pro-ENN-zuh SKOO-ler]
Beloved New York based line designed by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Barneys'
Julie Gilhart bought their entire senior collection before they even collected their degrees from
Parsons. Winners of the first
CFDA Emerging Designer award and Vogue favorites.
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Raf Simons [rahf SIMM-ons]
A Belgian fashion designer most famous for being the Creative Director behind Jil Sander, a post he took up in 2005.
Raquel ZimmermanA Brazilian Bombshell and Karl favorite, seen in the Gucci by Gucci video, number 1 on
Models.com Rick OwensBeloved Indie-designer of impossibly decadent leather clothes under his own label. Artistic Director of French furrier Revillon and patron of
Gareth Pugh. Self-proclaimed "drama queen".
Rochas [ro-SHAH]
Fashion house founded way back in 1925 by Marcel Rochas, but became obsession du jour only in 2002 when
Olivier Theyskens became creative director. They shuttered their doors in 2006 but have recently announced plans to reopen with
Marco Zanini at the helm.
Rogan GregoryCFDA-award winning designer, very focused on being as green as possible - has three clothing lines: Rogan, A Litl Betr and Loomstate, which is based on 100% organic cotton. He's also the creative director of Edun, Ali Hewson and Bono's clothing line that helps promote sustainability in Africa and the man behind Rogan Objects, recycled and sustainable furniture. Fashion's very own mountain man.
Roland Mouret [Officially: ro-LAhn (soft on that "n") moo-RAY; But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: ROLL-in mor-AY]
Genius British designer made famous by ubiquitous Galaxy dress. Now designs under RM since his name belongs to his former financial backers.
Menswear on the horizon.
Ruth FinleyThe woman that's put together the Fashion Calendar, a bi-weekly listing of international fashion events that becomes indispensable during Fashion Week, since 1941.
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Sari Gueron [Officially: SEH-ree geh-RONN; But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: SAH-ri Ger-ON]
Israeli born designer, worked for John Galliano and Oscar de la Renta before starting her own line in 2003.
Sasha PivovarovaRussian model, best known as the long-time face of Prada and
Gemma Ward's lookalike. Is also an artist.
Scott SchumanThe man who made it cool to pose with your bike while wearing a great outfit. His blog,
The Sartorialist, captures the best outfits from around the world. He photographs for Style.com, has a page in GQ and modeled for the FW '08 Gap campaign.
Sean AveryA professional ice hockey player from Canada, famous as being the "meanest guy in hockey" and a really good dresser. Became even more famous when he sent a letter to Anna Wintour asking for an internship at Vogue, to which she immediately obliged. He interned at Vogue for the summer of 2008, and now has a
romantic comedy about his experience coming out sometime in 2010.
Simon DoonanCreative Director of Barneys New York, author, TV personality and disher of fabulous fashion advice.
Wishes he landed the part of Nigel in The Devil Wears Prada, even though he loves Anna Wintour.
Si NewhouseSamuel Irving Newhouse Jr., (known simply as "Si"), Chariman and CEO of Advance Publications, the media conglomerate that owns Conde Nast, the publishing company of Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker, and so many more. Inherited the company from the Founder, his father, Si Newhouse Sr. Basically the grand daddy of most major magazines.
Sophie DahlBritish fashion (used-to-be-plus-sized) model and granddaughter of everybody's favorite childhood author, Roald Dahl. Discovered by
Isabella Blow.
Star Von BunnyAn
adorable, fluffy stuffed rabbit often caught posing with celebrities, editors, designers and models in her very own book created by Kym Canter and Ellen Kahn.
StarworksKind of awesome London & New York based PR firm. They rep Costello, Sari Gueron, Temperley and Daphne Guinness. We love their
blog.
Stefano Pilati [Officially: STEH-fah-no pee-LAH-tee; But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: Ste-FAH-no Pi-LAW-tee]
The Italian fashion designer best known as the creative director behind Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), a post he's held, to much critical acclaim, since 2004. Absolutely no relation to
Joseph Pilates.
Stella TennantScottish model and sort-of royalty (she is the fourth cousin, once removed of Princess Diana). Was everywhere in the nineties, now making an appearance in Marc's Fall '08 ads.
Steven Meisel [Steven My-ZELL]
American photographer, known as one of Vogue photog, since he shoots almost exclusively for American and Italian Vogue. Credited with discovering
Sasha Pivovarova,
Coco Rocha and
Jessica Stam.
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Tabitha SimmonsMajor British stylist, Fashion Director of V Magazine, married to
Craig McDean.
Terry RichardsonPhotographer, son of Bob Richardson. Known for his snapshot aesthetic and pictures full of sex, skinny naked people and hipsters, (American Apparel owes him everything). Has shot campaigns for both Gucci and Miu Miu as well as endless editorials.
Thierry Mugler [Officially: tyEH-ree moo-GLEHR; But in the US, you'll most likely hear it as: tyEH-ree MUG-ler]
French designer best known for space/robot themes and directing George Michael's Too Funky video in 1992.
Tim WalkerBritish fashion photographer known for fantastical, fairytale-like editorials.
Toni Garrn17-year-old model signed to Women. Walked exclusively for Calvin Klein Fall 2008. German.
Tory BurchAmerican designer best known for plastering shoes, buttons, sweaters-everything-with her logo, made of two opposing T's. Winner of the 2008 CFDA
Best Accessory Design Award.
Tuileries [twee-leh-REE]
The Parisian gardens running from the Place de la Concorde to the Louvre. Home to Paris Fashion Week's biggest tents and therefore familiar stomping grounds of the
Sartorialist and his favorite subjects.
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Vivienne WestwoodBritish Dame, dressed the Sex Pistols with her husband/their manager Malcolm McClaren while running her store, Sex, in London. Since then, she's produced legendary collections including Pirates, Seditionaries, and Witches while draping and shaping fabric like no one else can.