Stays

[anielmom]

I've got all the bits for the stays cut out.  Because I plan on cording these I cut the outer layer one size larger, so as to have room for the cording.  But now I face a dilemma.  When sewing in the gussets, should I place them to match the other layers, (which are one size smaller and the size that fits), or put them in at the marked placement

Comments

[virginiadear]

You'll be machine-stitching this set of stays, have I got that right?
And using the zipper foot to secure the outer layer of fabric over a row of cording, then placing the next line of cording snug to that line of stitches, and securing the fabric as closely as possible to that piece of cording, and so on?

I'm wondering if one size larger won't give you---I've assumed these lines of cording will lie parallel to the floor---unneeded excess fabric on the sides, unless your cord is quite heavy, and too little extra length? (Sorry if I'm sounding like a Doomsbody, here: I'm wrestling with an "increased circumferential difference" problem of sorts, of my own---but mine's not so precisely fitted as a set of stays.) Or will the cording be vertical?

But to answer your question, assuming I haven't overlooked or misunderstood anything which at this hour I might well have done, I'd match placement markings according to the bits that fit: inner layer to inner layer.

[anielmom]

I haven't finalized to cording pattern yet, but I'm envisioning a mix of horizontal, vertical and diagonal. The cording will be hand sewn, I'll have more control that way. When I can get onto the computer, I'll post some pics of what I have in mind.

Do you mind if I ask what you are working on?

[virginiadear]

Horizontal, vertical and diagonal cording on the gussets? On each gusset?
Wow! Intricate....

I don't mind. It's just something necessary, nothing exciting: a pullover in polar fleece and what's making me...kind of tense, is that I decided this thing needs a yoke front and back (I'm not working from a pattern, but I've concluded today that I'll have to draw out this part and make a paper pattern.)
The front yoke is going to be "deeper" (taller) than the back yoke, to accommodate the bust.

It's not even difficult, I'm just having a hard time disciplining my mind to thinking in terms of adjusting the fit from the bottom of the yoke, upward.

[anielmom]

Oh no, not on the gussets themselves. The cording will be on the body of the stats. These are regency period long stays.

Ah ha. One of those seemingly simple tasks that puts your mind in knots just trying to piece it all together.