Patternmaking Lesson 2: The basic pleated skirt
Lesson 2: a pleated skirt.
We'll make a skirt for 102cm base width (BaW) and 72cm waist, total length 60 cm.
So we'll have (102/2)-(72/2) difference: 51-36=15cm. That can be divided 2/3=10cm at the side seam and 1/3=5cm in the darts (1.9 front and 3.1 back). The top of the skirt will sit 3cm below waist.
So, draw a right angle, and lines of 60 cm and 51. on the horizontal line, measure 10cm hipline and 21cm base width line.
Complete the rectangle and draw the hipline and base width line. Divide the vertical line in 2, one cm more for the front: 51cm/2 = 25.5+25.5 -> 26.5+24.5.
Draw the side seam and measure 5+5=10cm and draw the side seam lines.
At Center Back (CB) measure 1cm and draw the waistline. At the Center Front (CF) measure 1.5cm and draw the front waistline. When you draw a waistline (or any line at the centerback or center front of a pattern, always draw 0.5cm straight to avoid an angle.
Draw the darts, and make the side seam at the hem 2.5 larger on both front and back.
Draw a new waistline 3cm lower. Draw a hipline 7 cm below the waistline. In front and back, at the base width line (BaW) measure 7.5cm from CB and CF, and a further 7.5cm. At the hem do teh same but measure 9cm instead. Draw lines.
Redistribute the darts: 1.9=0.5+0.5+0.5+0.4 for the front and 0.7+0.7+0.7+0.7=2.8 for the back.
Cut off the waist parts and close teh little darts to get solid parts. At CF add a section 7.5cm at top and 9cm on the hem.
Cut the parts and add 7.5*9cm parts. The arrows show the pleats; pick up the paper or fabric where the arrow starts and place it where the arrow points. Make marks at 12 below hip to sew the pleats to that point.
We'll make a skirt for 102cm base width (BaW) and 72cm waist, total length 60 cm.
So we'll have (102/2)-(72/2) difference: 51-36=15cm. That can be divided 2/3=10cm at the side seam and 1/3=5cm in the darts (1.9 front and 3.1 back). The top of the skirt will sit 3cm below waist.
So, draw a right angle, and lines of 60 cm and 51. on the horizontal line, measure 10cm hipline and 21cm base width line.
Complete the rectangle and draw the hipline and base width line. Divide the vertical line in 2, one cm more for the front: 51cm/2 = 25.5+25.5 -> 26.5+24.5.
Draw the side seam and measure 5+5=10cm and draw the side seam lines.
At Center Back (CB) measure 1cm and draw the waistline. At the Center Front (CF) measure 1.5cm and draw the front waistline. When you draw a waistline (or any line at the centerback or center front of a pattern, always draw 0.5cm straight to avoid an angle.
Draw the darts, and make the side seam at the hem 2.5 larger on both front and back.
Draw a new waistline 3cm lower. Draw a hipline 7 cm below the waistline. In front and back, at the base width line (BaW) measure 7.5cm from CB and CF, and a further 7.5cm. At the hem do teh same but measure 9cm instead. Draw lines.
Redistribute the darts: 1.9=0.5+0.5+0.5+0.4 for the front and 0.7+0.7+0.7+0.7=2.8 for the back.
Cut off the waist parts and close teh little darts to get solid parts. At CF add a section 7.5cm at top and 9cm on the hem.
Cut the parts and add 7.5*9cm parts. The arrows show the pleats; pick up the paper or fabric where the arrow starts and place it where the arrow points. Make marks at 12 below hip to sew the pleats to that point.