on the Morris. Nothing too difficult, a few trivial fixes, couple of bits of welding, and more attention to the brakes to try to reduce the pedal/handbrake travel. I have that problem with Edward the Series III (Landie, not Morris) - comes from being old-fashioned non-servo drum brake system, if it's not all adjusted right, you don't get good
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Our 1000 passed its MoT last Wednesday, after some welding by Geoff, with just a comment that the front brakes were slightly asymmetric, though not enough to fail; possibly a cylinder getting a bit sticky. Our 1000 has always been prone to seized front brake cylinders, ever since we got it nearly 13 years ago - we've had to free them off many times, and change them quite often too.
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I think part of the problem is we're all spoiled by new-fangled servo-assisted disc brakes, which, by their nature, have minimal travel.
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Should be OK for a bit. We put plenty of silicone grease under the caps to keep the damp out too.
This is the advantage of having a moderate-sized lathe in the workshop :)
Geoff has a fair-sized lathe in his workshop too; not sure whether it'd take a brake drum, though.
I think part of the problem is we're all spoiled by new-fangled servo-assisted disc brakes, which, by their nature, have minimal travel.
Oh, absolutely; though the brakes on my Rover 2200TC (before the tinworm ate it in early 1990) would sometimes feel disconcertingly squidgy...
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Eep? Is there something you're not telling me, that I ought to know about?
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