Stays Fitting Post #347

Oct 06, 2011 22:11

(N.B. Crosspost from DW is either slow or not happening, so I'm doing it by hand. Apologies if the automatic version comes through later)

I have finally gotten around to adjusting the stays, making the back side piece more flared and lobed. It's nice. I'm very happy. In fact, I feel like I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.



Love the yoga pants?

Here they are from the front. That inch that's left open will be additional pattern space. The viewer's left is the modified pattern. The old pattern is on your right. I widened each tab, even on the pieces I wasn't really changing. MUCH better. Wider tab equals more reeds/boning equals more stability.

Somebody mentioned in the last post that the top points looked a little narrow on the body. These are going to be strapless, does that make a difference? I could really only go a half inch wider on each side, as then it'll start to cut into my arms. Worth changing?



Yes, yes. Very shelf-y. I know.

You can see where I made the big changes in this picture. I decided to cut the three lobed piece out of denim for purposes of fitting. The cardboard works really nice where you can put straight edge to straight edge, but not so much on curves. The tabs are definitely curves. Since the rest is stiff, this should be ok. It cuts in much less sharply at my waist, and helps the rest of the pieces sit better. The two tabbed side piece is also cut wider at the bottom than the Ryan pattern. The pattern had those two side seams parallel.



Even the back center tab sits much flatter than it did in the first place. Oh, that tab is about an inch wider than it'll be since I included the 1" seam allowance to compensate for lacing space.



Here's a closeup of what I did at the hip. I cut this just a tad wide the first time, so I pin fit it a little closer. I'm going to try to shape the ends of the tabs a little more like the extant piece, too, but for fitting purposes, they work.



Here's the original again, for reference.



Now I have to start thinking about order of assembly and boning. Ack! More thinking!

I was planning on going with reed, originally, but then I attended sarahbellem's boning class as CoCo. (I think I mentioned this already...) So I started thinking about cable ties. We went to Lowes tonight, but I'm not sure that what I found is the right kind. They seem wider and thinner than what she passed around class.





Yes, the sharpie mark on my thumb is from adjusting these suckers.






Alternatively, I'll just stick with reed and try to dig up where to buy metal for some reinforcing. I'm also debating opening and lacing them in the front, too, but that would mean making a LOT more eyelets. Meh.

18th c strapless stays, 18th c

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