my ankle is fucked up, and swollen, and i don't know why.
anyway surfing was a blast. i stopped being such a wimp and cought a lot of
waves, pretty good sized ones too. tiara and went surfing for almost 3
hours. when we were done i just laid on my back in the water, exhaused.
which was a good idea until i got a wave to the face.
i'm feeling a
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