My first fitting of Butterick 4254 - view B

[clockworklady42]

Comments

[dcwttaoo1]

I see a zipper. Plastic boning for sure.

[virginiadear]

Maybe plastic boning, depending on the degree of support needed and whether or not this is a fun, outerwear/street wear garment; a historical re-creation garment where historical accuracy is important.
The boning as it is arranged right now suggests to me that plastic is one possibility, but basket weaver's cane of the correct weight and correct silhouette would also work and it has the advantage of being breathable (and launderable, if the garment in which it is used can be hand-laundered: I wouldn't put cane through an automatic washing machine.

But most immediately important is that this article in the photographs is the toile. Since it's being used for fitting and to check the sizing and the cut, that zip closure may be there for convenience

[clockworklady42]

You are correct the zipper is there for convenicence...I didn't have any eyelets left and hand doing them is such a struggle for me it takes me months to do.
These are being made neither for streetwear nor for historical re-enactment. Its for cosplay, so its about getting the right shape and as close as I an to materials as long as its within budget.

[dcwttaoo1]

Point taken, but without that info, assuming too much of course, zip = plastic.

[reynardo]

My biggest concern would be "how stretchy are those jeans?" Most jeans these days have a bit of lycra in them, which I find makes quite the difference in how things fit. I made a skirt out of old pairs of jeans, and each panel now hangs slightly differently thanks to the differences in the denim.

Also, I'd recommend a really strong boning beside the zipper, as it will need the support.

[clockworklady42]

I got these jeans in the late 1990s/early 2000s and the ticket says 100% cotton.
There will be lacing not a zipper in the final garment.

[rabid_bookwyrm]

Denim can still be pretty stretchy. It's not a bad thing to use for the first mockup, but keep in in mind as you are fitting.

[clockworklady42]

Decided internal fabric is canvas but external lining and fashion fabric will be white linen. Which red stitching and red biasbinding and eyelets.

[rabid_bookwyrm]

That sounds lovely.

[virginiadear]

Ooh! What a cool color scheme!

We wanna see pictures of the completed corset (and of your work while in progress, too), remember!

[clockworklady42]

The order of contruction is what is confusing me. I've found 3 different ways suggested of doing it so far...its very confusing.
Some say make the internal layers bone them then at top layer and lining.
Others say just put boning inbetween top layer and internal layer.
Others say flatline the external fabric with 1 internal layer then add 2nd internal layer, sew boning chanels then add lining when finished.

I want the boning channels to show on the outside...so the 3rd option makes more sense to me. But what do you think?

[vick34]

I've done this particular corset with 3 layers (fashion, canvas, and cotton lining) with the boning between the canvas and lining. I used spiral steel at the bust and flat steel on the bottom.
I highly recommend using casing on where your flat steels are and make sure to sew the channels under your arms, etc SHUT I've had boning pop loose and stab me in the underarm area and at the hip.
And it makes me glad to know that I'm not the only one who had a problem with the insanely high back on that pattern!
I can't wait to see this one finished!
P.S.- Clockwork I love the icon!

[clockworklady42]

My thing I do with boning is I put tape on the ends which I find works...at least with plastic boing.
I don't know who they drafted that back for but its waaay off.

thanks. Bit of a doctor who fan here.

[vick34]

Ditto. ;-)
And I had the same issues with the bias tape on the tab. Just take your time.
Cathy Hay posted an article once about properly doing the tape around curves.