Mantua Maker 1870-1 help please!

[mrspinkdaffodil]

I looked through the archives for this pattern but didn't see anything pertaining to my question. I typically draft but wanted to try out gussets and thought this pattern was beautiful so here I am

Comments

[saintswife]

I think you have to go to the hash mark - it allows for a more gradual seam allowance so that it doesn't come to a point.

[unclrashid]

I haven't used this pattern, so I can't say what's intended, but I would lay the pattern piece for the gore on top of that line and see how much seam allowance that leaves you. Also, in general (YMMV) I find it easier not to slash all the way until I've already set in the gore, but that's just the last 1/4 or 1/8 of an inch.

[rabid_bookwyrm]

Eventually, yes, but you don't want to do it before you've started sewing in the gore. I have not done this pattern, but in general the easiest way I have found to do this sort of thing is: leave it just like above, marking the bottom of the gore slash with a chalk dot or whatever. Also mark this point on your gore.

Sew in the first side of the gore, all the way down to those marked points.

Now slash the slash. Flip the gore around, sort of inside out, so you can match the other side seam allowances. Finger press your first seam to get it pretty flat, otherwise you'll wind up with a pucker. Starting at the bottom of the gore (where you just finished stitching and slashed), carefully hand-crank the needle in, drop the foot, and start sewing up the other side.

Since this area is going to be under a fair amount of stress, I like to press the gore seam allowances out (away from the gore) and topstitch 1/8"-1/4" (2-6mm) away from the edge of the gore, through all layers of seam allowance.

Good luck1 Let me know if you have any