Which construction is best suitable for this corset?
Over the last few weeks I have learned (theoretically) some different ways to construct a corset with the help of Linda Sparks's book and some internet websites.
I'll sum them up for you;
-Linda Sparks's single layer corset with bone casing tape over seams, uses a waist tape and stitches the waist tape on the inside of the corset stitching along both edges of the waist tape. Uses facings to finish center front and center back.
-Linda Sparks's double layer corset, has two layers of strength fabric. Inner layer is stitched together, outer layer is stitched together, waist tape is sewn on the right side of the inner layer stitching along each edge of the waist tape.
Outer and inner layers are hand basted together through the seams (stitch in the ditch), then bone channels are made by sandwich method along the seams and where needed on the panels themselves. Uses the inner layer to finish center front and center back.
-Linda Sparks's fashion layer corset; fashion fabric with a strength fabric inner layer. Outer layer pieces are sewn together, inner layer pieces are sewn together. Has a waist tape sewn to the wrong side of the inner layer (faces the wrong side of the fashion fabric), the waist tape is stitched along each edge of the waist tape. Bone casing tape is sewn onto the wrong side of the inner layer, both on seam and possibly mid panel.
Uses the inner layer to finish center front and center back. Outer layer is hand basted to inner layer through the seams (stitch in the ditch).
-Welt seam method aka folded seam method (as explained by Sidney Eileen); you build the corset from front to back, adding each panel as a complete unit. All layers of the same panel are sewn to all layers of the previous panel with the same seam, after the seam is done the layers of the new panel are folded away from the previous panel. Repeat.
The center back is finished by simply pressing the CB seam allowance inwards and top stitching.
Bone channels are created by sandwich method on seam and in the CB provided there is a big enough seam allowance.
A waist tape can be incorporated when each panel of the corset is added but I don't see an option for stitching it on one specific layer continuously along each edge of the waist tape.
I have a corset project I would like to make, but I am not sure which construction option to pick for the intended corset.
This is what I would like your expert opinion on.
I know the ideal construction may differ per corset, because some corsets have different features than others.
I have talked about my corset project in an earlier post in this community http://corsetmakers.livejournal.com/2171976.html,
but to sum it up I would like the corset to have the following features;
-underwear waspie, a lot like the "what katie did baby corset" but with a dip in the center front like this corset http://www.corsettraining.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/VixenCorsetPattern-1.jpg
-colour doesn't really matter as long as it's light, could be printer paper white/off-white/pink etc
-must be able to withstand wear of about 3 times a week (at most),
-must be strong enough to withstand a reduction of about 4 inches maximum initially (perhaps more later),
-is usually worn over a liner or over shapewear (think spanx) but I would like the option of wearing it safely on the skin occasionally,
-strong enough to hold its own against strong back muscles that make it hard to shape the waist at the side seams
I have given it some thought, and came to the idea that maybe I need 2 layers of coutil for the job and that a waist tape might be a good idea as well.
A thin cotton floating liner might be great for days where I want to wear the corset without a liner.
So I though coutil for the outer layer and coutil for the inner layer, a waist tape attached to the inner layer and a floating lining between inner coutil layer and skin.
I will undoubtedly make mistakes with my first corset, but I would like to at least go in the right direction towards something usable with this corset.
I think if I could get away with less layers and a simpler construction method, and if the corset could do the job with that and not die within 8 months, then all the better for a first corset.
Any advice is really appreciated, if you advocate for a construction method that I have not mentioned here I am all ears and would love to hear it.
Thank you in advance.
I'll sum them up for you;
-Linda Sparks's single layer corset with bone casing tape over seams, uses a waist tape and stitches the waist tape on the inside of the corset stitching along both edges of the waist tape. Uses facings to finish center front and center back.
-Linda Sparks's double layer corset, has two layers of strength fabric. Inner layer is stitched together, outer layer is stitched together, waist tape is sewn on the right side of the inner layer stitching along each edge of the waist tape.
Outer and inner layers are hand basted together through the seams (stitch in the ditch), then bone channels are made by sandwich method along the seams and where needed on the panels themselves. Uses the inner layer to finish center front and center back.
-Linda Sparks's fashion layer corset; fashion fabric with a strength fabric inner layer. Outer layer pieces are sewn together, inner layer pieces are sewn together. Has a waist tape sewn to the wrong side of the inner layer (faces the wrong side of the fashion fabric), the waist tape is stitched along each edge of the waist tape. Bone casing tape is sewn onto the wrong side of the inner layer, both on seam and possibly mid panel.
Uses the inner layer to finish center front and center back. Outer layer is hand basted to inner layer through the seams (stitch in the ditch).
-Welt seam method aka folded seam method (as explained by Sidney Eileen); you build the corset from front to back, adding each panel as a complete unit. All layers of the same panel are sewn to all layers of the previous panel with the same seam, after the seam is done the layers of the new panel are folded away from the previous panel. Repeat.
The center back is finished by simply pressing the CB seam allowance inwards and top stitching.
Bone channels are created by sandwich method on seam and in the CB provided there is a big enough seam allowance.
A waist tape can be incorporated when each panel of the corset is added but I don't see an option for stitching it on one specific layer continuously along each edge of the waist tape.
I have a corset project I would like to make, but I am not sure which construction option to pick for the intended corset.
This is what I would like your expert opinion on.
I know the ideal construction may differ per corset, because some corsets have different features than others.
I have talked about my corset project in an earlier post in this community http://corsetmakers.livejournal.com/2171976.html,
but to sum it up I would like the corset to have the following features;
-underwear waspie, a lot like the "what katie did baby corset" but with a dip in the center front like this corset http://www.corsettraining.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/VixenCorsetPattern-1.jpg
-colour doesn't really matter as long as it's light, could be printer paper white/off-white/pink etc
-must be able to withstand wear of about 3 times a week (at most),
-must be strong enough to withstand a reduction of about 4 inches maximum initially (perhaps more later),
-is usually worn over a liner or over shapewear (think spanx) but I would like the option of wearing it safely on the skin occasionally,
-strong enough to hold its own against strong back muscles that make it hard to shape the waist at the side seams
I have given it some thought, and came to the idea that maybe I need 2 layers of coutil for the job and that a waist tape might be a good idea as well.
A thin cotton floating liner might be great for days where I want to wear the corset without a liner.
So I though coutil for the outer layer and coutil for the inner layer, a waist tape attached to the inner layer and a floating lining between inner coutil layer and skin.
I will undoubtedly make mistakes with my first corset, but I would like to at least go in the right direction towards something usable with this corset.
I think if I could get away with less layers and a simpler construction method, and if the corset could do the job with that and not die within 8 months, then all the better for a first corset.
Any advice is really appreciated, if you advocate for a construction method that I have not mentioned here I am all ears and would love to hear it.
Thank you in advance.