You may need a bit more room in the ribcage and bust areas of your corset (without increasing the waist measurement, if it's good for you as it is now.)
If this makes you feel any better, though, "in period," or during the Victorian era, there was an unavoidable bit of "ridging" or "roll" present even on women lacking the smooth, plump shoulders considered so desirable at that time, and for that matter even on thin, bony ladies, due to the top lines of corsets and snug although not tight lacing, and dresses were made with something to conceal it: a bertha, flounces, ruffles, something like that. Later in that century, dresses contained pads which eliminated the hollow between the armpit and the bust, which is how a perfect and perfectly smooth hourglass top half was achieved on the front of the figure. Those pads, however, weren't used in the 1870's (as far as I know; others on this community may have different or more current information
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Thank you so much for taking the time to respond 💕
To test whether letting it out at the outer bust area would help, I split the mockup at the seam between pieces 3/4 and 5 and added a quickie “gusset”(really just a strip of fabric sewed in).
Actually I don't know how many ladies were buying ready-made corsets, what percentage had their corsets custom-made, and what percentage made their own stays, at home.
I thought the corset cover was meant to cover the ridges caused by the corset or stay boning, and in the interest of decency (had to have something between the corset and the frock, as if a corset cover interfered with others' X-ray vison. Whaleboned stays or corsets, though, had a tell-tale creak when the wearer moved enough or moved in certain ways, which gave away the presence of this foundation garment. What I was meaning, specifically, was the tissue which gets displaced toward the armpit or the top of the shoulder blades, or toward the thighs and hips.
Just want to say, it's been so long since I've seen any delicious eye-candy in this community and even as a mock-up, this is lovely. Looking forward to seeing the finished piece!
Why thank you! I will certainly do so. You may see more of it before that as well. I’m having a heck of a time trying to fit the bust so it pushes up, but not into the armpits, and doesn’t give the dreaded quad-boob :S
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If this makes you feel any better, though, "in period," or during the Victorian era, there was an unavoidable bit of "ridging" or "roll" present even on women lacking the smooth, plump shoulders considered so desirable at that time, and for that matter even on thin, bony ladies, due to the top lines of corsets and snug although not tight lacing, and dresses were made with something to conceal it: a bertha, flounces, ruffles, something like that. Later in that century, dresses contained pads which eliminated the hollow between the armpit and the bust, which is how a perfect and perfectly smooth hourglass top half was achieved on the front of the figure. Those pads, however, weren't used in the 1870's (as far as I know; others on this community may have different or more current information ( ... )
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To test whether letting it out at the outer bust area would help, I split the mockup at the seam between pieces 3/4 and 5 and added a quickie “gusset”(really just a strip of fabric sewed in).
( ... )
Reply
Actually I don't know how many ladies were buying ready-made corsets, what percentage had their corsets custom-made, and what percentage made their own stays, at home.
I thought the corset cover was meant to cover the ridges caused by the corset or stay boning, and in the interest of decency (had to have something between the corset and the frock, as if a corset cover interfered with others' X-ray vison.
Whaleboned stays or corsets, though, had a tell-tale creak when the wearer moved enough or moved in certain ways, which gave away the presence of this foundation garment.
What I was meaning, specifically, was the tissue which gets displaced toward the armpit or the top of the shoulder blades, or toward the thighs and hips.
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