(no subject)
Here Dan, it wouldn't all fit in a reply comment...
My pleasure :).
And I’m really sorry that I wrote you a novel…. It’s really really really long…
Always approach your horse from the front. If he’s turned away from you, call to him or entice him with a treat to get him to come to you. Never walk in back of a horse- always a very bad idea. When working around your horse, wear boots or hard-toed shoes to protect your feet. Watch out for his hooves, they hurt. Always speak in a calm, spoft tone to your horse before approaching or touching him. Some horses are likely to jump and may kick when startled. Pet a horse by first placing a hand on its shoulder or neck. Don’t “dab” at the end of a horse’s nose. Alot of horses can be headshy. If he is tied, get him to look at you. Always notice a horse’s expression before advancing. If his ears are pricked forward and he looks alert but not skittish, you're well off. If his ears are back, he's saying come near me and I'll bite you're hand off. Talk to him/her- "good boy(girl)", something like that. Get his attention and try to coax him away from the whole "whoa you're scary" aspect. No sudden movements, especially around his face or hindquarters. When working around your horse, tie him securely with a quick-release/slip knot, or have someone hold him with a lead rope. Use cross-ties when possible, but be sure they have panic snaps or are secured with a breakable tie, such as baling twine. Always work close to your horse. If you are near his shoulder, you won’t be struck with the full force of his feet. Nor will you receive the full force of a kick if you stay close to the body when you work about the haunches or pass behind your horse. Know your horse and his temperament and reactions. Control your temper at all times, but be firm. Don't let him dance around on the cross-ties, or paw. Bad habits. Be calm, confident, and collected around horses. A nervous handler/rider can make a nervous horse. Do not drop grooming tools under foot while grooming. Place them where you will not trip on them and the horse will not step on them. Don’t tease your horse. Teasing may cause it to develop dangerous habits for the rest of its life. Avoid feeding the horse treats from your hand frequently, they can become nippy an dgreedy- more bad habits. Punish a horse only at the instant it disobeys. If you wait, even for a minute, it will not understand why it is being punished. Punish without anger, or your punishment may be too severe. Never strike a horse about its head. Swat at its shoulder, say "bad boy/girl/horse" with a firm tone and sound like you're disapointed. but never ever yell t a horse. I'd have to hurt you ;). Be sure your turnout area has been checked for old machinery; broken boards and nails; poisonous plants; and wild cherry, red maple, or black walnut trees. Fences should be checked frequently for loose nails, broken sections, and loose wire. Barbed wire = bad idea. If it is necessary to leave a halter on a loose horse, the halter must be a breakaway type. You can make a breakaway halter by using a piece of baling twine or by replacing the crown piece with a section of an OLD, lightweight leather belt. If the halter is too loose, the horse may catch a foot in it, especially if he is trying to scratch his head with a hind foot. A loose halter may catch on fence posts or other pasture objects. Some halter materials will shrink if they get wet, so be sure to check the fit. Not, obviously, too tight either.
When leading your horse, walk beside him-not ahead or behind. A position even with the horse’s head or halfway between the horse’s head and its shoulder is considered safest. Always turn the horse away from you and walk around it. Use a long lead shank and both hands when leading. If the horse rears up, release the hand nearest to the halter so you can stay on the ground. Lead from the left (near side) rather than the right (off side), using the right hand to hold the lead, near the halter. The excess portion of the lead should be folded like a figure-eight. NEVER- I repeat NEVER EVER- wrap it around your hand. Don't let the horse crowd you, but keep within a foot of the horse. Look straight ahead, because if you look at the horse he won't move. The horse is stronger than you, so don’t try to out-pull him. Not a smart move. Be extremely careful when leading a horse through a narrow opening, such as a door. Be sure you have firm control and step through first. Step through quickly and get to one side to avoid being crowded. Use judgment when turning a horse loose. Lead completely through the gate or door, and turn the horse around facing the direction from which you just entered. Then release the lead shank or remove the halter or bridle. Avoid letting a horse bolt away from you when released. Good habits prevent accidents. Avoid use of excessively long lead ropes so as to prevent you from becoming entangled Image of cute little kid leading cute little horse the right way: http://www.imh.org/imh/jpg/ponyclub.jpg
slipknot- how to tie the horse the right way- http://www.iwillknot.com/images/slip_knot.jpg
Tie your horse far enough away from strange horses so they cannot fight. Tie a safe distance from tree limbs or brush to prevent the horse from becoming entangled. Tie your horse with a rope long enough to allow comfortable movement but short enough to avoid becoming tangled or getting a foot over the rope. NEVER tie a horse by the reins- if he tries to pull away, the bit's in his mouth. I'd hunt you down if you did. Be sure to tie to an object that is strong and secure to avoid the danger of breaking or coming loose if the horse pulls back. Never tie below the level of the horse’s withers. Tie to a post set in the ground, not to a rail on a fence. If a horse has broken loose once, he is more likely to pull back again.
Mounting: CHECK THE GIRTH (or cinch, if it's western) BEFORE YOU MOUNT UP. Otherwise you'll be having a nice visit with the ground or the underside of your horse. I happened to learn that the hard way. The horses don't like it, either. *Headache just thinking about it*
How to mount a horse:
http://www.equine-world.co.uk/riding_horses/mounting_horse.htm
How to dismount a horse:
http://www.equine-world.co.uk/riding_horses/dismounting_horse.htm
Safe riding: When riding, wear boots with proper heels to prevent your feet from slipping through the stirrups. Always wear protective headgear, properly fitted and fastened. Keep your horse under control and maintain a secure seat at all times. Horses are easily frightened by unusual objects and noises. When your horse becomes frightened, remain calm, speak to it quietly, steady it, and give it time to chill. Allow a horse to pick his way at a walk when riding on tough ground or in sand, mud, ice, or snow where there is danger of your horse slipping or falling. Don’t fool around. Horseplay is dangerous to you and to your friends, as well as to others who may be nearby. Try to avoid paved or other hard-surfaced roads. Walk the horse when crossing paved roads. If you must ride along the road, ride on the shoulder and follow the rules of the road. Never rush past riders who are proceeding at a slower gait, as it startles both horses and riders and frequently causes accidents. Instead, approach slowly, indicate a desire to pass, and proceed cautiously on the left side. Stay a full horse’s length from the horse in front to avoid the possibility of being kicked. You can tell if the distance is safe by looking through your horse’s ears. You should be able to see the hind heels of the horse in front of you. Don’t look at the ground when you’re riding. Don’t let a horse run to and from the stable. Walk the last distance home. If you use spurs, be sure your legs are steady enough that you don’t touch the horse with the spurs by mistake. If you’re not sure, don’t wear them. Daniel, if I catch you in spurs I will personally kill you. I don’t even use them. When your horse is frightened and tries to run, turn him in a circle and tighten the circle until he stops. A red ribbon tied into the tail indicates a kicker, so stay back.
Parts of a horse: http://www.equinecentre.com.au/_images/youth_horse_facts_parts.jpg
Parts of a saddle: (English) http://www.equusite.com/articles/basics/images/basicsEnglishSaddle.jpg
(Western)
http://www.equusite.com/articles/basics/images/basicsWesternSaddle.jpg
Horse breeds: Thoroughbred, Arabian, Quarter Horse, Mustang, Andalusian, Appaloosa, Clydesdale, Friesian, Connemara, Morgan, Shetland pony, Welsh Pony, Bashkir Curly pony (hypoallergenic pony!!) http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horses/ those are “bios” of the horse breeds.
How to clean tack: This includes bridle, saddle, and girth. ALWAYS use clean water. Wipe down your tack after each use. A quick once-over with a slightly damp rag after each ride will go a long way to eliminating the caked-on grime that can be difficult to remove after it's dry. Multiple small sponges, a stiff toothbrush and several clean rags make tack cleaning more efficient. Minimize suds. Foamy soapsuds don't make tack any cleaner and increase the time required for rinsing. Use a limited amount of soap to loosen grime, and aim for suds-free scrubbing. Most importantly, Store tack properly. Throwing saddles and bridles into airless car trunks or leaving them out in dusty barns will make them get dirtier and moldier. Temperature extremes are also harmful to leather, accelerating its breakdown.
Grooming a horse: http://www.equusite.com/articles/basics/basicsGrooming.shtml
Colic: http://www.equusite.com/articles/health/healthColicFacts.shtml most important thing- CALL A VET right away
Other ailments: Thrush: Blackness on sole of foot, especially around frog. Dreadful smell, possible lameness. Clean hooves and scrub away loose, crumbly material. Disinfect with peroxide solution or purple spray. Maintain good stable hygiene.
Abscess: Pus formed in the hoof, causing extreme lameness, or under the skin in response to an infection. Antibiotics are sometimes used except in the cases of foot abscesses and strangles.
Strangles: A highly contagious infection of the upper respiratory tract causing raised temperature, nasal discharge, loss of appetite and swelling around the jaw due to abscesses in the throat. Infected horses must be isolated for at least 3 weeks. Hot poulticing helps the abscesses to drain. A vet will confirm the disease and recommend suitable treatment. Antibiotics are rarely used.
Equine influenza: Most horses are vaccinated against equine flu, a serious respiratory disease (sometimes fatal in youngstock) causing high temperatures, clear nasal discharge and coughing. Incubation takes 3-4 days and recovery about 3 weeks. Treatment includes prolonged rest along with drug therapy. Recovered horses may be carriers.
Equine infectious anaemia (EIA): A persistent virus initially causing fever, anaemia, body oedema and lethargy. Then recovery appears to take place but a few weeks later fluctuating periods of fever occur. Full recovery takes, about a year but the horse has become a carrier. Coggins test diagnoses the disease; no treatment is available.
Navicular disease: A degenerative disorder of the tiny navicular bone in the front feet. Symptoms include tripping and a gradual change of gait and onset of lameness. Drug therapies, surgery and remedial shoeing can relieve the symptoms.
#7: http://www.horses-arizona.com/pages/articles/unsoundfeetlegs.html
#8 http://www.acreageequines.com/HorseCare/horsecare3.htm
#9 http://www.acreageequines.com/HorseCare/horsecare1.htm
Tacking up a horse: http://home.mtholyoke.edu/~sggladu/TackingHorse/WebHelp/TackingHorse.htm
General riding tips: http://www.equine-world.co.uk/riding_horses/novice_rider.htm
How to back up: Firm grip on the reins but DO NOT pull back. Just don’t let him move forward. Apply pressure with your legs. If the horse refuses to listen, pull back slightly but do not yank, and as soon as the horse does what you ask of him, stop pulling (release pressure but maintain contact). That is his reward. Well, that, a “good boy” and a pat on the shoulder ;).
Well, there you are. And sorry again about the length... Couldn't help myself. You asked for it lol. Now allow me to warn you: Be very good to any horse you come across, or I will personally severly injure you ;).