Leaves in Relief-plain or cabled sleeves
A number of people have emailed me saying that they liked Leaves in Relief, but preferred the sleeves on the man's sweater shown in the article.
I didn't happen to write down exactly what I did for these sleeves. But here's the idea:
For the smaller sizes: CO 36. Work 19 rounds in 2/2 ribbing. Work a round in knit stitches, making 12 evenly spaced increases. *Work three rounds even, and then work an increase at the start of the round. Work three rounds even, then work an increase at the end of the round.* Repeat between *s until you have worked 30 increases. Work 10 more rounds. Then work 6 stitches. Put the last 12 stitches worked on waste yarn. Cut yarn, leaving a 20" tail for grafting. Join to yoke as in pattern.
For the larger sizes: CO 48. Work 19 rounds in 2/2 ribbing. Work a round in knit stitches, making 12 evenly spaced increases. *Work four rounds even, then work an increase at the start of the round. Work four rounds even, then work an increase at the end of the round.* Repeat between *s until you have worked 24 increases. Work 10 more rounds. Then work 6 stitches. Put the last 12 stitches worked on waste yarn. Cut yarn, leaving a 20" tail for grafting. Join to yoke as in pattern.
Then just do raglan decreases up to the neckline, work the collar, and you're done.
If you felt so inclined, you could incorporate a cable pattern into the sleeves. (I used a simple four-rib braid; you could also use, for example, Chart C of Mariah.) If you do so, be sure to check your cable gauge. You will probably have to do some increases (besides the increases specified above) when you start the cable pattern, and then some decreases when you end it.
If you want to use a cable pattern with an odd number of stitches, you may want to do an extra increase, or one fewer increases, to keep things symmetric. In this case, you will end up with an extra stitch on each side while working the collar. Don't worry about it.
I didn't happen to write down exactly what I did for these sleeves. But here's the idea:
For the smaller sizes: CO 36. Work 19 rounds in 2/2 ribbing. Work a round in knit stitches, making 12 evenly spaced increases. *Work three rounds even, and then work an increase at the start of the round. Work three rounds even, then work an increase at the end of the round.* Repeat between *s until you have worked 30 increases. Work 10 more rounds. Then work 6 stitches. Put the last 12 stitches worked on waste yarn. Cut yarn, leaving a 20" tail for grafting. Join to yoke as in pattern.
For the larger sizes: CO 48. Work 19 rounds in 2/2 ribbing. Work a round in knit stitches, making 12 evenly spaced increases. *Work four rounds even, then work an increase at the start of the round. Work four rounds even, then work an increase at the end of the round.* Repeat between *s until you have worked 24 increases. Work 10 more rounds. Then work 6 stitches. Put the last 12 stitches worked on waste yarn. Cut yarn, leaving a 20" tail for grafting. Join to yoke as in pattern.
Then just do raglan decreases up to the neckline, work the collar, and you're done.
If you felt so inclined, you could incorporate a cable pattern into the sleeves. (I used a simple four-rib braid; you could also use, for example, Chart C of Mariah.) If you do so, be sure to check your cable gauge. You will probably have to do some increases (besides the increases specified above) when you start the cable pattern, and then some decreases when you end it.
If you want to use a cable pattern with an odd number of stitches, you may want to do an extra increase, or one fewer increases, to keep things symmetric. In this case, you will end up with an extra stitch on each side while working the collar. Don't worry about it.