All right, and here's the last part of MatsuJun's trip :D
Enjoy~
Learning Oki’s history
After a very enthusiastic night, they woke up the next morning to see it snowing outside! And quite a blizzard at that. According to the weather forecast the staff looked at the day before, it was supposed to be cloudy in the evening changing to snow in the morning. After that, it would change to rain and by noon, be sunny. It was a forecast that seemed to be a collection of different weather. After hearing that forecast, they laughed and said there’s no way it would happen, but it was completely right. Which meant that they might still see the clear weather they were hoping for. But, getting so much snow despite it being the end of March might in some ways be a sign of Matsumoto’s strong luck.
With last night’s excitement still not cooled off, they met up again with Aoyama-san. They headed to a bed and breakfast to have a breakfast one can only get in Ama. It was the bed and breakfast that Aoyama-san was currently the most into. It seems this bed and breakfast that volunteered to work with Aoyama-kun on his idea to not rely on the demands accompanying the public works, but rather to go back to the basics and start over with their customer service. He told them passionately the night before, “It’s in a region call Hobomi. They use their own homegrown vegetables, the rice is local from the island, and they gather the wild plants themselves. They really use the land’s resources to serve us here. There are still many things that aren’t quite enough yet, but we’re working together to slowly change it, and I’d really like you to experience it.”
When they entered, the seats were right by the door, and they saw that breakfast was already being prepared. It was an extravagant breakfast, with several items from both the land and sea to taste, including a seaweed commonly called hondawara, the first wild butterbur of the season, mustard leaves, and grilled blackfish, called mejina in Kantou and kuroya here. Moreover, the konyaku was handmade by the owner. And of course, with rice and miso soup there as well, it makes one happy right from the morning. “The konyaku is so delicious!” Even though he was up late the night before talking, Matsumoto has a good appetite in the morning, getting seconds on the rice and miso. Aoyama-san said, “They use whatever ingredients are in season, so no matter how many times you come, they never have the same menu.” After finishing the meal with a “Ah~ that was good~!” Matsumoto said, “Oh no… after eating so much, I’m getting sleepy,” and lounged around on the side of the room. The owner even gave him a blanket and pillow, and it was like he was at a relative’s house (lol). Since it was still snowing, they decided to rest a little bit at the bed and breakfast. Looking at Matsumoto like that, Aoyama-san said, “I had wanted for you to relax at a place like this, so this makes me happy.” It’s certainly true that it made for a great picture (lol).
The owner, an elderly woman who came to the house as a bride in Showa year 34 (1959), started this bed and breakfast all by herself in Showa year 46 (1971). The house was large, her children were still small, and her husband would sometimes leave the island for work, so it was difficult, but she kept at it. She had been using the local resources for the food since the beginning, but it seems that now she was doing even more to improve that at the request of Aoyama-san. The other day, she served the famous Ama oysters, which had been Aoyama-san’s idea. Seeing her happily talking about it, saying, “The customers really enjoyed it” left an impression. According to Aoyama-san, the flowers displayed at the entrance were also arranged by her, and when asked about it, she said, “I just used some random flowers that were blooming outside and put them in a vase.”
While talking about this and that, the snow let up and soon the weather improved. Matsumoto needed to take the 3 pm ferry back to the mainland. So they set off, in order to experience Ama as much as possible before then.
The first place they went to was the processing factory that handles Ama’s famous brand name oysters, which the group had their fill of the night before. After getting out of the car and walking along the shore to the factory, the sun suddenly came out and the water started sparkling and looked even clearer than it had before. It was so pretty that Matsumoto took several pictures on the way.
Oowaki Yasunori-san from the factory showed them around the facilities. The water of the Ten River, named one of the best 100 waters in Japan, flows into the salt water of Hobomi Bay, which is particularly clear even for the islands and contains a lot of minerals. In other words, there’s no need to put in extra feed for the oysters that would pollute the ocean. The oysters that are carefully raised for 3 years in such a beautiful natural environment are best eaten March-May, when they have the highest nutritional value, and are thus shipped out beginning in the spring.
After leaving the factory, they got back in the car and headed to the origin of the Ten River, a famous water of Ama that eventually flows into the Hobomi Bay. After driving a few minutes, they did indeed see a sign from the Environmental Agency reading, “100 Best Waters of Japan.” It is said the name of the river came from the Nara Era, when the priest Gyouki came to visit here as part of his Oki pilgrimage and called this river the Ten River (“Water of Heaven’s Blessing”). About 400 tons of water flows from it every day, so it is quite a bountiful amount of water. Matsumoto tried some of the water with a water bottle that he brought. “Ah, it’s good!” The delicious rice they had earlier at the bed and breakfast surely is that way partly because of this water. Having had the delicious water and seeing the beautiful rural landscape all around them, Matsumoto felt like riding his bicycle for a bit.
The next place Aoyama-san guided them to was the house of Takinaka Shigeru-san (80 years-old), nicknamed “Grandpa Takinaka,” who, as mentioned yesterday, serves as a guide for Ama Town. With his bright smile, Grandpa Takinaka was a cheerful elderly man. In order to show the group around various places having to do with former Emperor Gotoba, he got into the car and immediately began talking. The car became just like a tour bus.
“The place we’re going to now, Saki, is the birthplace of Ama’s history, so to speak. Since former Emperor Gotoba drifted ashore in Saki, after all. Former Emperor Gotoba had been accompanied by an army up until he reached Oohamaura of Izumo Province, now current day Mihonoseki. But after Mihonoseki, he came here with a total of only 6 people, including his wife, mistresses, and court nobles. The voyage was smooth sailing with a south winde blowing, but when they were about to cross the channel between Chiburijima and Nakanoshima, a strong north wind came, the ocean became rough, and they weren’t able to steer the ship anymore and were washed ashore on Saki.” Matsumoto listened intently to Takinaka-san’s passionate explanation. “After living 19 years in unavoidable confinement, the former Emperor quietly became part of the earth here in Ama in 1239. About 100 years after former Emperor Gotoba died, Emperor Godaigo was exiled to Beppu on a nearby island…” He then continued to talk about Emperor Godaigo and Kusunoki Masashige, and then went on until the Meiji Restoration, with Sakamoto Ryouma and Saigo Takamori, and just when they thought he would never stop, the island broadcast started playing the music signaling that it was noon. It was like an ending song. A round of applause naturally bubbled up for Takinaka-san, who told the history of Oki so wonderfully. Matsumoto said, “Thank you so much!” several times before they parted.
With the weather improved, they kept up the momentum, and Aoyama-san next led them to his favorite place in Ama, Chichii Cape. This cape was right next to a farm, and despite there being quite a slope, seeing the cows nonchalantly carrying on was very peaceful. It was easily understood why this is Aoyama-san’s favorite place. The view from Chichii Cape was more wonderful than any of the other places they had visited, and with the ocean around Oki spread out before them, it was really an amazing viewpoint. They rode bikes around there, took pictures, and generally relaxed for a while before heading out for lunch. They went to a restaurant near Hishiura Harbor that serves another brand Ama is proud of, “Oki Beef.” Aoyama-san had asked Mukoyama-san and Hata-san, who the high school students had mentioned yesterday, to join them there.
The townspeople who support the Connections Trip from the background
Matsumoto: Wow, this is amazing. It looks delicious~!
Hata: It is delicious. It’s very soft. I used to work in Osaka a long time ago, but it’s been decades now since I returned to the islands. A little while ago, I went to Tokyo for the first time in a long while to help out at an event, and I thought it was a very inconvenient place.
Matsumoto: Tokyo was?
Hata: I was at Shiodome, and didn’t have a pointed carving knife. The staff said, “I’ll go buy one,” which was great, but it took them 40 minutes of running around to find one.
Matsumoto: That might be true about Shiodome. You would probably have to go all the way to like a department store in Ginza from there for a pointed carving knife.
Hata: But in the countryside, you just have to go to the shopping district down the street to get whatever you need.
Mukoyama: Or you could even just ask your neighbors if you could borrow theirs and they would let you.
Matsumoto: I see, even though we have so many things (lol). I see. Uwa, this is delicious! Especially this shoulder blade meat, it’s surprisingly delicious. Ama just has everything, doesn’t it. The fish is good, the beef is good, and the rice too. I had it this morning and it was really delicious.
Hata: Mukoyama-san grows rice.
Matsumoto: I heard that you are providing all the rice the high school students need for their Connections trip that starts today.
Mukoyama: 2 or 3 days ago, the kids came and carried it off on their shoulders.
Hata: I told them it would be difficult on them if they didn’t think and plan out all of the things they needed to do, since they’re going to be doing all kinds of things themselves this time. It won’t work if they don’t have it together. So then when they really thought through the details they said, “Oh, this is difficult.”
Matsumoto: It’s true that a lot of things might be rough around the edges, but I thought it was amazing for them to be thinking so seriously and thoroughly about it.
Hata: Adults have a fear of failure, but children do not. They have a great power to keep pushing forward. But we are so terrified that we try to step very firmly and solidly forward. You know, on Nishinoshima there is a tall mountain called Mt. Takuhi, and there is a shrine there called Takuhi Shrine. It has always been believed that tThe ocean god is there. It’s a pretty rugged mountain. You have to hike about 30 minutes to get there. And the students said they’re going to spend the night there. So they needed 10-15 persons’ worth of futons, but nothing more, and they needed to carry those up the mountain. I told them it would be tough, but they said, “We’ll do it!” I guess they carried them up the mountain. They also wanted to make bentos for everyone to eat on the ferry ride back home. I told them it’d be a lot for them to prepare both that with all the breakfasts and lunches, but they said, “We’ll do that too!” They must really want the guests to feel glad that they came. The will to do it comes before any thoughts of it being difficult. I thought that is an important thing.
Matsumoto: They’re able to do it because they have support from all kinds of people on the islands.
Hata: We really wish for them to succeed.
Matsumoto: What was it that made you want to help them, Mukoyama-san?
Mukoyama: The evening of the day before yesterday, 2 high school students came to my workplace and said, “Can we please have some rice?” And I thought I had to make it work somehow. It was only the thought that I wanted to help any way I could. To make the Connections trip even a little bit better if I could. Today’s high school students have completely different lifestyles compared to the ones our generation had. We all have to understand that. They don’t know about the mountains and don’t know that they can eat what comes from the mountains. When the fall came, we ran all over the mountains back then. And the things that came from the mountains became our snacks. That’s how we grew up. Everyone learned all about the ocean and the mountains from the time they were children. But, now people don’t really go to the mountains so it’s not much different from the city. So that’s why I’d like for the kids of today to take another look at their own lifestyles. Everyone leaves the islands after they finish high school. But I think it’s good to go at least once. I think it’s good if they leave, learn how tough the city is, and then come back to start from scratch here.
Matsumoto: Did you also leave Ama once, Mukoyama-san?
Mukoyama: No, I didn’t. I’ve always lived in Ama. I’m the eldest son so I was told to stay home and I couldn’t leave my parents to venture off the islands. But, almost everyone has left at least once.
Hata: You understand what makes this place so great only after you go elsewhere and then look back on the countryside.
Matsumoto: You couldn’t tell what was so great when you left?
Hata: I wanted to leave as soon as possible (lol).
Mukoyama: I’m sure everyone is the same way. That’s why they leave. I thought about it once too, but wasn’t able to leave my parents behind… and now I’ve been here 60-some years.
Hata-san’s and Mukoyama-san’s words seemed to deeply lodge in Matsumoto’s mind. Those feelings of wanting to leave the islands, and of wanting to come back to the islands are all real, and it’s not that one is right and one is wrong, it’s just that everyone has their own way and their own timing in realizing what’s great about the islands. How were those students, having realized the greatness of the islands while still in high school, heading towards the “Connections Trip” right now? And how will they express the things that they gain from it? Matsumoto was indeed clearly imagining the future of Ama, a town that up until a few days ago he had absolutely no ties to.
They finished lunch, and with the remaining time until the ferry left, went to look for souvenirs at a shop called “Kinya Monya Center” located at the port. It seemed like Matsumoto thought of something and was busy consulting Aoyama-san about it. And then, it finally time to set sail. Here they had to part with Aoyama-san, who took such good care of them over the 2 days. The two, who are the same age and work hard in different fields, had enthusiastically talked until late last night. They very firmly shook hands. Then, Aoyama-san handed Matsumoto a letter in a red envelope, saying, “It’s from Hana-chan.” About now, Hana-chan and the high school students would be putting in a tremendous effort on the “Connections Tour.” They got on the ferry, and many of the Ama townspeople they had met had come to see them off. Pulling the paper tape with the staff of the Tourism Bureau to say goodbye was very moving, and, while it was only 2 days, many memories crossed their minds. And next to them, there was a young man who was getting ready to leave the island and was waving goodbye to his friends that had come to see him off. As his friends counted off to yell in unison, “Do your best~!” he yelled back in a loud voice, “Yes! I’ll do that!” Seeing that exchange also made their eyes water a bit. Soon the ferry changed directions, and all that was left was to head to the mainland. They went to the inside of the ship, and reflected on the past 2 days.
“I’m surprised how much I fit in. Before we went, I thought I wouldn’t be able to get that close with them. I think having a meal with Aoyama-kun and Hana-chan right at the beginning, and being able to talk with them then, even a little, was really great. It really feels like it was a trip of connections. We were meeting people the whole time, after all. Everyone is so…serious and honest. The two we talked with at the end were that way too. They really love Ama, and are not embarrassed to show that. The way they talk about wanting to do what they can to help, as best as they can. At any rate, there was absolutely nothing half-hearted about what they’re doing. I think that’s why I fit in so easily. The talk about Tokyo being inconvenient was also funny/interesting. And I’m really glad to have met Aoyama-kun~. In that sense, he and Hana-chan were a big part of the trip. I don’t mean like in any topical sense, like how it vaguely seems like there are many people who transplant to the islands, but simply that you genuinely feel, “Hana-chan is amazing~!” or “Aoyama-kun can really do it!” The feeling that Tokyo is inconvenient too, comes from the island being one community, and one that isn’t too big. I think it feels like just the right size. In the middle of that, they feel content with what they have, or rather, like what Hana-chan was saying, they try to do what they can within the size of what they have, that sense was so true to life, and it really came across to me and made me think. It’s a great town.”
The ferry safely arrived at Shichirui Harbor. From there, Matsumoto went straight to Yonago Airport, and flew back to Tokyo. Seeing him enriched and replenished, clearly different from how he was when he first arrived here, is all thanks to the positive energy of the Ama townspeople. With a heart full of gratitude, Matsumoto will continue his trip of “Connections” in his own way. Thank you so very much, everyone in Ama.
I hope you all enjoyed ^__^
Next week our wonderful Sho-chan is up, out to learn a little bit about the agriculture scene in Japan.
Comments as always are <3
Masterpost is here if you missed the previous week's entries
Thanks all!