Dear Sewers,

[eyja]

How does one figure out the measurement for the gusset? (I'm essentially doing this pattern, but with four gores instead of two -- or more technically the stomach-weight pattern from julia-spring's class @ Clothier's)

Comments

[julia_spring]

The bottom of the gusset should end just below your bust (unless you're a D-cup or larger, then you might need it a bit lower to get more room where you need the fullness). I don't recall your bust size surprising me (some people are stealthy about it).

If the arms are tapered, then you can just use a square. If the arms are straight, I like to change the shape so that the tip of the other arm of the triangle reaches to the elbow, for ease of movement.

If you cut that up the middle, then you can use a continuous line of stitching from the bottom of the hem to the sleeve cuff. :) Remember to always sew from widest to narrowest (or "down hill") when you've got a cut on the bias.

[julia_spring]

Maybe I mean leg of the triangle? The hypotenuse is the fold, in this case, or C, the one against the body is A, and the one against the arm is B.

Make A as long as the bottom of your bust. Make B as long as your elbow with a straight sleeve. Cut C through the middle to expedite your sewing. Does that help?

[ladybirdkiller]

I've always put my gueest in on one side and then sewn from the sleeve to hem (I never heard the down the hill rule of thumb before) without a seam in the center of the gusset without trouble.

[eyja]

No, my bust is not larger than a D. :-) In this case, I'm sewing for Will, not myself, so is the placement of the gusset the same? Arms will be tapered.