Today marks my two-week anniversary in my life as a fiddle owner. I bought the cheapest fiddle Musician's Friend had to offer, and it could be just because I don't tend to play with my guitar and mandolin that close to my ear, but I'm blown away by the volume and resonance of this thing. But I know that it's a $80 instrument and people buy and sell
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That aside better instruments are made with better quality woods, better varnishes, higher quality control, your looking at handcrafted quality instruments where someone has devoted hours to the construction, as opposed to an assembly line type affair with the budget models.
I like the way a person can spend just a small amount on an instrument and learn the basics and get good technique without having to break the bank, and then trade up to something that makes that technique and practice really shine out.
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I'll certainly consider that. Probably in a while, after I'm past playing "Mary Had A Little Lamb" on the five notes of the D scale the video showed me. What I'm after is a description of what that difference might be.
I'm a guitarist, and my acoustic is an inexpensive Fender. I go to the shop and pull down a Martin D-28 and I know the difference. I can hear it. The instrument is lighter. The harmonics are brighter. Notes pop out more when I play. Intonation is better. I'm hoping to get a more concrete description of that difference in tone and playability when it comes to fiddle.
I like the way a person can spend just a small amount on an instrument and learn the basics and get good technique without ( ... )
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Here's a good website that shows the good and bad things you should look out for when buying a violin.
http://fritz-reuter.com/index_copy(1).htm
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That's the thing. I can describe the difference. A switch from a $90 to $500 will buy you better fretwork, no zero fret, a better bridge (my last el-cheapo had a bad adjustable metal tone-sucker bridge), and possibly a solid wood top instead of laminate. A cheaper guitar will not have a round tone. It'll sound clipped. Highs will clang instead of ring. That's what I mean by better, but that isn't necessarily universally better. If you want to play authentic pre-war acoustic blues, then a POS spruce body guitar would be what you want. If it's a 12-string, it's ladder-braced and has to detuned to B or A or else it'll collapse upon itself. And that's what I'm hoping to find out. In concrete terms, what does "better" mean for violins ( ... )
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as far as with bows go, the differance isn't a huge differance, but it differant bows will draw out the tone of the instrument differantly. it is just one of theose things that you have to be a little more expirienced and knowledgeable in. but I will say that a "Hex" (Hexigonal) shaped wood bow tends to sound better than the standard cilindrical ones, also the weight has of the bow has an effect on tone. other than that it is hard to explain and is something that you just need to feel out and hear for youself.
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