The beaches on Crete are little things, wedged between cliffs and rocky shorelines. Kalyves Beach, where we stayed, is about a quarter-mile long, and runs eastward from our hotel to a tiny fishing harbor tucked in next to a small headland. At the entrance to the harbor parking lot, there's a torpedo displayed on a rusty metal stand. No explanation, no context, just there. Left over from the war? Who knows
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