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Ok so now that I have time, ill share what the arba guidebook to raising better rabbits and cavies has to say about pet rabbits. :)
Living with a companion rabbit. By linda pett.
A pet rabbit can bring great joy to your life but you may need to be prepared to make compromises in your lifestyle in order to comfortably accomodate a rabbit into your eviroment. Before bringing a rabbit into the home make sure you are prepared to provide adequate living conditions for your pet, to take the responsibility of caring for and protecting the life you are bringing into your home. If the rabbit is to be a pet for a child you must take the responsibility of supervising the care of the animal.
Your rabbit will need a cage of adequate size. Even if you plan on allowing the rabbit the run of the house a cage is recommended for those occasions when you must leave your rabbit alone or in case your rabbit should become ill. A cage becomes a safe haven and a place of security for a rabbit. A cage can provide quiet space for your rabbit if activity in the household becomes too much.
A cage in which the trays slide out will be easier to clean, and the easier it is to clean, the more likely the job will get done as needed. Keep a supply of news papers on hand to freshen the drop pan. Occasionally take the drop pan outside to wash off the build up. The cage should have a large door to make access to the rabbit easy and the door should open out not in. Keep the cage at a height that is convienient for you to access or visit with the rabbit. For children a cage on the floor may be ideal but for an adult the cage at table heighth may be much better. If you are going to allow the rabbit to get in and out of the cage on its own make sure the cage access is easy and not a dangerous leap for the rabbit.
The rabbit should have a heavy crock for feed or a through the wire feeder. A heavy crock or water bottle that fits on the side of the cage will do well for water. If you use a crock for water, be sure to wash it occasionally. Do not let fur or algea build up in the crock or water bottle. Ideally give the rabbit clean water every day however a 32 ounce bottle will hold enough water for several days for the light drinker. If you don't elect to re-fill the bottle every day be sure to keep a close eye on the water level and don't let your rabbit run out of water.
A litter pan in the cage is optional and depends on what your expectations for your rabbit may be. Some rabbits will train to a cage returning there to decafitate, for some rabbits oyu may wish to have a litter pan outside the cage. A litter pan outside the cage should be cleaned dailly. Also, if you have dogs or cats in the house, yu may want to cover the litter box with a piece of cage floor wire. If oyu do not, the cat may decide to use the litter box as well or the dog may decide to eat the feces from the litter box. A piece of cage floor wiring(1x1/2) can be fitted into a litter box and some supply companies sell sell litter boxes built like this for rabbit owners.
Every rabbit has a personality and you will never know until you get to know your rabbit what to expect from yours, so it is wise to rabbit proof your home. Rabbits have been known to pull up and chew carpet, baseboards, draperies, and even electrical cords. While there are ways of dealing with each of these stuations consider whether you are prepared to compromise to whatever extent is neccessary in order to provide a quality life for your rabbit. Remember, anything low to the floor, books at the bottom of a book case, magazines, even shoes may peak the interest of a playful and be at the mercy of a female in nesting box mode.
Rabbits can learn to use a litter box, can come when called and adjust to a routine. Rabbits can be the ideal pet for those who work out of the home during the day as they tend to be most active in the early morning and in the evening and are quite content to spend their days dozing in their cage. Rabbits may not reach their full potentail for a relationship with a human until they have reached the adult stage(5 to 9 months)for this reason the adoption of a six month or older can be very rewarding. If however the rabbit has had little or no experience with human contact before this time bonding and training can be more difficult. Older rabbits are often more easily litter box trained. Rabbits reach their peak of curiousity and hyperactivity at 4 to 8 months.
A rabbit that is to be kept strictly a pet in the home should be neutered. A neutered male will be less likely to spray. A female that is spayed will not develope uterine cancer which could be fatal.
Learn to recognize your rabbits methods of communication. Growling or lunging is aggressive behavior often caused by territorialism. If your male starts running in circles and twitching his tail as you approach the cage-watch out he is probably going to spray. A male running circles around your feet and grunting is feeling amorous. When male rabbits mate with a female they often grab ahold of a piece of skin, if they are feeling to amorous around you they may grab ahold of your skin. Ears pulled back is an aggressive mode. Ears foreward means they are paying attention, listening. Thumping is caused by stress or fear of danger. Sometimes you may not be able to detect the thing that startled your rabbit and began the thumping. Chining is a way of marking territory. Grinding teeth usually indicates pain not to be confused with chattering teeth, which often indicates contentment. If a doe lets out a crying niose when you got to pick her upshe may be stating that she wishes to be left alone. Nipping can accur when a rabbit has been held too long and wishes some freedom or may simply be a way of saying, "get out of my space."
If you bring a rabbit into your home be prepared for an experience that will highly enrich your life but also be prepared to change your life to accomodate their needs if needed.
Theres also another chapter on pet rabbit facts, training your house rabbit, and look before you leap. Which explains the responsible way to sell pet rabbits to the community and such. Will share those laterz. :)
Edit: In another chapter that talks about caging requirements, it also says that spayed and neutered rabbits make the best pets. Then talks about spaying and neutering ages. Also gives recommended cage space requirements for certain breeds. Then says that ll aspects of caging should be researched. Basically saying if you want to build a large pen for your bunny its ok. Or if you want to keep them in a something smaller, its also ok.
But as I was reading the section about nutrition, I ran across what they have to say about vegetables. And this is researched, mind you.
*The addition to fruits and vegetables to the animals diet can cause severe gastrointestinal problems that will often times lead to fatal dihrea(recent amount of posts in bunny owners anyone?)If one has to add fruits and vegetables to the diet, they should be fed in very small amounts, and one should only use the dark green vegetables. Light green vegetables should be avioded as feed additives to the rabbits diet due to the possibility of adding access amount of fluid to the diet.*
So basically its saying its ok to feed veggies, and fruits. BUt be careful when feeding them. And only feed certain ones cause they can cause gi problems. And only feed them in small amounts as treats.
That tells me that arba is thoroughly researching the veggie diet. And is proving how unhealthy it can be to feed your pet that crap. And what can be safely fed.
But i forgot. Arba is just a breeding org that uses outdated information. And never scientifically backs up anything they have written. Though over half of their nutrition, and pet chapters in the newer edition of the book seem to be written by dvms and even a rabbit rescuer.
Living with a companion rabbit. By linda pett.
A pet rabbit can bring great joy to your life but you may need to be prepared to make compromises in your lifestyle in order to comfortably accomodate a rabbit into your eviroment. Before bringing a rabbit into the home make sure you are prepared to provide adequate living conditions for your pet, to take the responsibility of caring for and protecting the life you are bringing into your home. If the rabbit is to be a pet for a child you must take the responsibility of supervising the care of the animal.
Your rabbit will need a cage of adequate size. Even if you plan on allowing the rabbit the run of the house a cage is recommended for those occasions when you must leave your rabbit alone or in case your rabbit should become ill. A cage becomes a safe haven and a place of security for a rabbit. A cage can provide quiet space for your rabbit if activity in the household becomes too much.
A cage in which the trays slide out will be easier to clean, and the easier it is to clean, the more likely the job will get done as needed. Keep a supply of news papers on hand to freshen the drop pan. Occasionally take the drop pan outside to wash off the build up. The cage should have a large door to make access to the rabbit easy and the door should open out not in. Keep the cage at a height that is convienient for you to access or visit with the rabbit. For children a cage on the floor may be ideal but for an adult the cage at table heighth may be much better. If you are going to allow the rabbit to get in and out of the cage on its own make sure the cage access is easy and not a dangerous leap for the rabbit.
The rabbit should have a heavy crock for feed or a through the wire feeder. A heavy crock or water bottle that fits on the side of the cage will do well for water. If you use a crock for water, be sure to wash it occasionally. Do not let fur or algea build up in the crock or water bottle. Ideally give the rabbit clean water every day however a 32 ounce bottle will hold enough water for several days for the light drinker. If you don't elect to re-fill the bottle every day be sure to keep a close eye on the water level and don't let your rabbit run out of water.
A litter pan in the cage is optional and depends on what your expectations for your rabbit may be. Some rabbits will train to a cage returning there to decafitate, for some rabbits oyu may wish to have a litter pan outside the cage. A litter pan outside the cage should be cleaned dailly. Also, if you have dogs or cats in the house, yu may want to cover the litter box with a piece of cage floor wire. If oyu do not, the cat may decide to use the litter box as well or the dog may decide to eat the feces from the litter box. A piece of cage floor wiring(1x1/2) can be fitted into a litter box and some supply companies sell sell litter boxes built like this for rabbit owners.
Every rabbit has a personality and you will never know until you get to know your rabbit what to expect from yours, so it is wise to rabbit proof your home. Rabbits have been known to pull up and chew carpet, baseboards, draperies, and even electrical cords. While there are ways of dealing with each of these stuations consider whether you are prepared to compromise to whatever extent is neccessary in order to provide a quality life for your rabbit. Remember, anything low to the floor, books at the bottom of a book case, magazines, even shoes may peak the interest of a playful and be at the mercy of a female in nesting box mode.
Rabbits can learn to use a litter box, can come when called and adjust to a routine. Rabbits can be the ideal pet for those who work out of the home during the day as they tend to be most active in the early morning and in the evening and are quite content to spend their days dozing in their cage. Rabbits may not reach their full potentail for a relationship with a human until they have reached the adult stage(5 to 9 months)for this reason the adoption of a six month or older can be very rewarding. If however the rabbit has had little or no experience with human contact before this time bonding and training can be more difficult. Older rabbits are often more easily litter box trained. Rabbits reach their peak of curiousity and hyperactivity at 4 to 8 months.
A rabbit that is to be kept strictly a pet in the home should be neutered. A neutered male will be less likely to spray. A female that is spayed will not develope uterine cancer which could be fatal.
Learn to recognize your rabbits methods of communication. Growling or lunging is aggressive behavior often caused by territorialism. If your male starts running in circles and twitching his tail as you approach the cage-watch out he is probably going to spray. A male running circles around your feet and grunting is feeling amorous. When male rabbits mate with a female they often grab ahold of a piece of skin, if they are feeling to amorous around you they may grab ahold of your skin. Ears pulled back is an aggressive mode. Ears foreward means they are paying attention, listening. Thumping is caused by stress or fear of danger. Sometimes you may not be able to detect the thing that startled your rabbit and began the thumping. Chining is a way of marking territory. Grinding teeth usually indicates pain not to be confused with chattering teeth, which often indicates contentment. If a doe lets out a crying niose when you got to pick her upshe may be stating that she wishes to be left alone. Nipping can accur when a rabbit has been held too long and wishes some freedom or may simply be a way of saying, "get out of my space."
If you bring a rabbit into your home be prepared for an experience that will highly enrich your life but also be prepared to change your life to accomodate their needs if needed.
Theres also another chapter on pet rabbit facts, training your house rabbit, and look before you leap. Which explains the responsible way to sell pet rabbits to the community and such. Will share those laterz. :)
Edit: In another chapter that talks about caging requirements, it also says that spayed and neutered rabbits make the best pets. Then talks about spaying and neutering ages. Also gives recommended cage space requirements for certain breeds. Then says that ll aspects of caging should be researched. Basically saying if you want to build a large pen for your bunny its ok. Or if you want to keep them in a something smaller, its also ok.
But as I was reading the section about nutrition, I ran across what they have to say about vegetables. And this is researched, mind you.
*The addition to fruits and vegetables to the animals diet can cause severe gastrointestinal problems that will often times lead to fatal dihrea(recent amount of posts in bunny owners anyone?)If one has to add fruits and vegetables to the diet, they should be fed in very small amounts, and one should only use the dark green vegetables. Light green vegetables should be avioded as feed additives to the rabbits diet due to the possibility of adding access amount of fluid to the diet.*
So basically its saying its ok to feed veggies, and fruits. BUt be careful when feeding them. And only feed certain ones cause they can cause gi problems. And only feed them in small amounts as treats.
That tells me that arba is thoroughly researching the veggie diet. And is proving how unhealthy it can be to feed your pet that crap. And what can be safely fed.
But i forgot. Arba is just a breeding org that uses outdated information. And never scientifically backs up anything they have written. Though over half of their nutrition, and pet chapters in the newer edition of the book seem to be written by dvms and even a rabbit rescuer.