left today, normal time got to pacific around 12. ran straight into the water. beautiful weather, and waves for everyone. it was such a perfect day. i stayed for hours and finally a fog bank rolled in and the waves got slower and bigger and massive. i've never seen pacifica so big. you could hear "oh damns", as bigger walls swelled. i'm not a
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And I should call you more often.
And you should call me more often, you dufus!
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if i had gone surfing on that same day. it's fun to write this way no?
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~Colleen
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