As I mentioned in the previous post, Kohaku and Rin begin their journey from Kyoto to Edo on the Nakasendo. Along the route were 69 stations or shukuba, each offering inns, restaurants and stables where weary travelers and their horses (presuming they had any) could rest.
Travelers who were not nobility or samurai were only permitted to stay i hatago or a kichinyando style inns. Hatago were somewhat like a modern bed and breakfast. For about 3000 yen (300 mon), travelers had a room for the night and were given breakfast and an evening meal. Many hatago also offered up prostitutes for an additional price Kichinyando were like modern day hostels - budget accommodation. For 500 yen (50 mon) guests were given a shared room and and firewood for building a cooking fire (food was not provided). Many hatago remain along the Nakasendo and Tokaido routes today.
The exterior of a hatago (with some modern refurbishments)
Many hatago offered travelers a basin of water in the entryway, so that they could wash the dust from their feet before entering.
The distance between stations was about 14 kms - some are closer to 15, some are closer to 13. It was expected that a traveler could easily make their way from one station to the next on foot in a day. In fact, according to my sources a "good traveler" went 40 kms a day (10 ri). Women were only expected to travel 30 kms a day (8 ri). The first night Rin and Kohaku stay in a village they are at a place called Moriyama-juku, the 67th station along the Nakasendo. It was a fairly large village with a population of about 1500 people. It originally became popular because it was the first place with lodgings along the Nakasendo, but remained so even when later stations were added.
(Hiroshige's impression of Moriyama-juku, along the Nakasendo.)
Along the road Rin asks Kohaku if they can stop at the Touji-ba. Touji literally means "to cure with hot water". It was common practice for people to use theraputic hot springs to relieve their aches and pains and relax after travel or hard work. Touji-ba are usually found in small mountain towns and are strictly meant for relaxation. During the Edo period many baths were found outdoors, but they have since been covered over and turned into onsen inns. It's fairly difficult to find these types of outdoor onsens now, but here's a shot of what the one Rin and Kohaku took a dip in might have looked like:
(Image credit goes to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_king/495717917)
Okay, I think that's enough for now. Next up will be Oiran, kaiken and more stops along the Nakasendo. Cheers!