(Untitled)

[linhchi]

When you drop in on a wave, everything suddenly hits slow motion. I can't begin to explain it. From the outside, it all seems to happen in less than a second: a quick paddle and a jump up. But as it is actually happening, I swear, time slows to the gradual pace of the wave breaking around you. You listen to the ocean, you feel your board for

Comments

[ellybelly]

This made me think of you.

http://outside.away.com/magazine/wofall98/wofsurfer.html

By Susan Orlean