I'll write up a shiny pdf version with pictures and all, but for now this is a quick draft version. Feedback is much appreciated, especially if you find a mistake or a typo.
Abbreviations
St: stitch
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: Single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Pc: popcorn stitch - the version used for these patterns goes like this: work 4 single crochet into next stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first stitch made, pull dropped loop through stitch, yarn over, pull through loop
Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (=single crochet decrease)
Dalek eggs
1: start with 9 sc in magic ring. (9)
2: [sc into next st, 2 sc into next st, sc in next st] three times (12)
3: [sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st] three times (15)
4: [sc into next st, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 3 st] three times (18)
5: [sc into next 5 st, 2 sc into next st] three times (21)
6: working in back loops only, [sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 3 st] three times (24)
7: working in back loop only, [2 sc into next st, sc into next 7 st] three times (27)
8: ch 2, then working in back loops only [dc into next 4 st, 2 dc into next st] five times, dc into next st (32)
9: sc into each st around (32)
10: [pc into next st, sc into next 3 st] eight times (32)
11: [sc into next 6 st, sc2tog] four times (28)
12: [sc into next 5 st, sc2tog] four times (24)
13: [pc into next st, sc into next 2 st] eight times (24)
14: [sc into next 4 st, sc2tog] four times (20)
15: [sc into next 3 st, sc2tog] four times (16)
16: [sc into next 2 st, sc2tog] four times (12). Stuff egg.
17: [sc into next st, sc2tog] four times (8). Finish off leaving a tail long enough to sew the opening closed.
Small Daleks
- for reassurance: row 14 and 17 seem a lot more complicated than they actually are: it's simply making a pc under each one in row 11 and sc into each st in between -
1: Start with 6 sc in magic ring. Sl st to join, ch 1. (6)
2: 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (12)
3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] six times. Sl st to join, ch 1. (18)
4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] three times. Sl st to join, ch 1. (21)
5: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (21)
6: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (21)
7: working in back loops only, [sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st] two times, sc in next st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (23)
8: working in back loops only, sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (23)
9: ch 2 more. Still working in back loops, dc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (23)
10: sc in next 11 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (24)
11: [sc in next st, pc in next st, sc in next st] eight times. Sl st to join, ch 1. (24)
12: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (24)
13: sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (26)
14: sc in next st, pc, sc in next 2 st, pc, sc in next 3 st, pc, [sc in next 2 st, pc] three times, sc in next 3 st, pc, sc in next 2 st, pc, sc in next st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (26)
15: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (26)
16: sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (30)
17: sc in next st, pc, sc in next st, pc, sc in next 4 st, pc, sc in next 3 st, pc, sc in next 2 st, pc, sc in next 3 st, pc, sc in next 4 st, pc, sc in next 2 st, pc, sc in next st. Sl st to join, ch 1. (30)
18: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (30)
19: sc in each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1. (30)
The remaining rows are for the bottom of the Dalek. If you prefer, you can still work in joined rounds - I’m too lazy so I switch to working in spiral.
20: working in back loops only, [sc in next 3 st, sc2tog] six times. (24)
21: [sc in next 2 st, sc2tog] six times (18).
22: [sc in next st, sc2tog] six times (12). Stuff your Dalek.
23: sc2tog six times. Finish off leaving a tail long enough to sew the opening closed.
The rest of the Dalek is a bit random, depending on the yarn for the appendages. So these are just guidelines, supposing that you use the same weight yarn as your main color.
I crocheted three pieces of i-cord, a short one for the eye stalk, medium for the plunger and relatively long for the whisk.
For the eye socket:
1: 4 sc in magic ring
2: sc around, sl st to join
Then you can sew a blue bead into the tiny cup.
For plunger:
1: 6 sc in magic ring
2: [2 sc into next st, sc into next st] three times
3: sc around
For the whisk, use either embroidery thread or a separated single floss of a contrasting color yarn to embroider parallel lines along its length.