Perpetually indecisive

[mala_14]

I've started working on my corset, so currently in the re-fitting and patterning stage. I made up a new paper pattern based on my lavender corset, with a lowered waist, slightly smaller bust and hips, slightly larger waist, and shorter in length. The next stage is doing a mock-up. However, I am being incredibly indecisive as to whether I want to

Comments

[nuranar]

Hmm, this is tough. A few thoughts.

* Don't worry about bulk from the gussets. All of my Civil War ones are made by other people, they're all gusseted, and there really is no thickness to notice. FWIW, cording DOES add bulk. So it's a moot point.

* But points liking to fray is another issue. SUCH a pain. Is it worth researching technique to find out a good way to do it? The old corsetmaking community might have info. Your Wardrobe Unlock'd (or the undies version) might have some free info, too.

It sounds like you have good reasons for doing either. It also sounds like you don't have a particular deadline, or a particular shape priority that might be affected one way or another. I'm ultra-conservative/careful, so I'd be inclined to make the one I think I'll enjoy the most, but have a backup plan (materials, research done, etc) so that if it doesn't work or I can tell it won't work, I can transfer momentum immediately.

[mala_14]

If I do gussets I'm putting them in seams (one side of the gusset attached to one shaped panel and the other side of the gusset attached to another panel), so that there isn't a point to them that could fray. This seems to be a thing that was done at this period, as well as having tucks at the points of the gussets. I guess they had the same problems in period and used these as solutions.

I'm inclined to try out this type of gusset, but I feel like no gussets is easier. Maybe I'll do a mock-up of both and take pictures. Pictures always help!

[the_aristocat]

I think both styles can achieve pretty similar results. If you want a smooth hourglass, it's easier to get that with shaped pieces. If you want a more natural, distinct, bust line, that easier with gussets. Also any extreme hip spring comes easier with gussets.

Also, I wouldn't worry about slit gussets fraying. If you flat fell them in and stitch the slit end part with extra care, they will last. I'd rather have them where they need to be to get the shape I want than to avoid them and compromise the overall look of the corset. I had a lot of mistrust in them too, but now that I've done them more, I've found that they are ok.

[mala_14]

I think I need to try the gussets out. I'm going to make a mock-up of both versions with pictures to compare and then decide. Thanks for the advice!

[wanda_victorian]

I would think that gussets would enhance the "girls" and shaped pieces would make the line from "girls" to waist smoother. So the look you want might impact your decision. I also think that what nature gives you may impact your decision as well. I find my girls are difficult to fit into a bodice without some serious pattern alterations if they are not wrangled into submission. I can't get the bodice closed! So I do better with shaped corsets rather than gusseted corsets or under bust corsets.

[mala_14]

I've gotten fairly good results with both styles. This is why I'm so indecisive. Thanks for sharing your experience though! It's neat to hear how other bodies work with corsets.