Pocket Question

[mala_14]

I need pockets. I was looking at all the pockets in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion Vol. 2 for the dresses 1866-1877 and they are pretty much all the same, a pocket that sort of looks like an 18th century pocket but it sewn into the seam of a skirt. Except, that Arnold gives NO explanation about how the slash is sewn to the seam. Anybody here

Comments

[theladyrebecca]

I know this is a totally different era, so it may not help at all, but in my extant 1890s skirt, it has a pocket like you would find in a modern skirt, but much deeper. My extant 1860s dress doesn't have a pocket.

[mala_14]

Thanks! That's what I've been doing for my other skirts. But I just saw this different kind of pocket that seems really common from this era and was curious about it.

[koshka_the_cat]

I actually took pictures for a tutorial almost two years ago. But it's really easy. Sew the pocket, leaving a half inch unsewn, at each opening end, sew it right side to right side on one side of the skirt, then the other, sew the skirt seams, extending a bit past the pocket.

And that makes very little sense. I'm pretty sure I learned from the Sewing Academy, which emphasizes accuracy.

[mala_14]

Thanks Katherine! I totally get what you're saying.

The kind of pocket that I am curious about, though, is a totally different kind. It's shaped exactly like an 18th century pocket, with a front and back piece where the front has a vertical slit in the middle. If I can't figure this one out, then I will just go with your directions. Sounds way easier. (I just spent like an hour looking up pockets on the Sewing Academy, but didn't find anything about this kind of pocket.)

[koshka_the_cat]

I somehow missed that part! My brain went straight to the ball gown with the pocket like I described :)

Now I'm curious too...

[mala_14]

I think I'll make my pockets like that. It seems easier and I can't find any hard evidence about this other weird pocket.

[atherleisure]

I used that kind of pocket in my late 1860's dress. I sewed the skirt seam except for the pocket opening then hand-sewed the pocket in with a small seam allowance on the pocket and the standard allowance on the skirt. I left the point of the slit unsewn, but I whipped over it to keep it from tearing, though the skirt seam should keep that from happening. That's just the way it made sense to me; I didn't have any original garment I had seen that kind of pocket on.

[mala_14]

That makes sense. Maybe I'll try that out some time. It's so mysterious because it seems really common based on Patterns of Fashion, but I can't find any examples online.

[atherleisure]

I wonder if it's not very common because it can't really be done on the machine. Since there are alternatives, people may just choose them instead.

[mala_14]

The inseam pockets that are more like modern pockets do seem more common, at least in all the 1860s examples that I can find online. They were probably much easier and quicker to sew.

[ashamanja_babu]

I usually just make an in-seam pocket (like modern) but I have seen what you describe in books, too. I think Costume In Detail also has one.

I don't know about period construction, but I would probably machine it. If you lay your pocket facing piece RS tog with skirt, you can stitch the slit seam, then turn it to the inside, then attach the other half of the pocket bag. But of course handsewing it would totes work too.

I like that idea for a pocket because the weight would all be suspended from the waist and make it stronger!

[mala_14]

Yeah, I've been doing regular inseam pockets too. I just happened to notice the pockets while looking up other stuff. I think your idea for how it'd be sewn makes sense too. I need to give it a try sometime, but I am going to go the easy route this time. It's so true about the weight!

[ashamanja_babu]

Though you could also extend the top of an in-seam pocket up to the waistband to support the weight. I know this happens in modern sewing, not sure about period techniques, though.

[mala_14]

True! I'm going to go with a period solution and use a pocket stay (a tape that attaches the loose side of the pocket to the waistband.