Cotton Baby Sweater Pattern
I am again using up materials in my stash. This is good old kitchen cotton, worsted weight and it wears like iron. It'll make a great sweater for evenings in the late spring or early summer and again for early fall when it isn't really cold, but a sweater is appreciated. I'm using percentages, with a little extra give in the sleeves and a little extra length as well, to fit baby for a little longer than the estimated size range.
With a 16" size 8/5mm circular needle and the main color, cast on 80 stitches. Join without twisting and work one round in 1x1 in the main color, switch and work one round 1x1 in the contrast color, switch and break yarn on contrast color and work two rows in 1x1 in the main color. Knit six inches in main color (stockinette) above the ribbing. Work half of stitches onto straights, place remaining on holder. Decrease two stitches per row for five rows. k3, k2tog, work across in knit or perl as appropriate, k2to, k3. K10, bind off twenty, k10, turn, k3, p7. Slip other set of ten onto holder. Work in pattern 2". Bind off. Slip stitches from front holder to needle and work opposite so that you form the basic neckline for the front. It will look large, but you'll be adding 1x1 rib to it. When that's done, slip the back stitches onto a straight needle and work the same five decreasing rows, then to 1" longer than front, knitting 3 at the beginning and end of both knit and purl rows. Knit 10, slip your center stiches onto a stitch holder or bind off, then knit the remaining 10. Work back to the neckline and slip the other shoulder stitches onto a stitch holder. Work 4 or six rows more, then join front and back shoulder seams on the right side. Work left shoulder to the same length and slip stitches onto stitch holder. Pick up stitches evenly all the way around the neckline on double points, (just easier to work with on rounded shapes)- I found 48 stitches fit neatly. Work 1x1 rib, two rows of main color, one row contrast, breaking yarn at end, two rows of main color, bind off in pattern. Work a flap of 1x1 rib on right back shoulder to overlap front right shoulder, with one (or two) buttonholes worked at neck edge (if two another at center), no contrast.
Cast on 24 in main color, work one row 1x1 in main color, switch to contrast color for one row, switch to main color and knit to length. For a six month size 10" should be fine. Make two. Sew onto body, making sure to overlap the back right shoulder over the right front shoulder carefully. Add button(s) at right shoulder to line up with buttonholes. Weave in all ends and you're done.
Now, will the pattern actually work? Let's find out!
I think the answer to the question is a resounding YES! The final detail is the button. It is a simple crochet button, made from the same lime green cotton as the accents in the sweater itself. Unlike hard buttons, this one is soft and squishy, while it still does it's job. Make three chains, join, work as many single stitches as fit to make a disk, slip stitch and chain one then work two stitches into each stitch, slip and knot, then cut a long tail. Weave to the center through the back of the stitches, then sew securely in place with both the starting and the ending tails, tie off and trim ends.
With a 16" size 8/5mm circular needle and the main color, cast on 80 stitches. Join without twisting and work one round in 1x1 in the main color, switch and work one round 1x1 in the contrast color, switch and break yarn on contrast color and work two rows in 1x1 in the main color. Knit six inches in main color (stockinette) above the ribbing. Work half of stitches onto straights, place remaining on holder. Decrease two stitches per row for five rows. k3, k2tog, work across in knit or perl as appropriate, k2to, k3. K10, bind off twenty, k10, turn, k3, p7. Slip other set of ten onto holder. Work in pattern 2". Bind off. Slip stitches from front holder to needle and work opposite so that you form the basic neckline for the front. It will look large, but you'll be adding 1x1 rib to it. When that's done, slip the back stitches onto a straight needle and work the same five decreasing rows, then to 1" longer than front, knitting 3 at the beginning and end of both knit and purl rows. Knit 10, slip your center stiches onto a stitch holder or bind off, then knit the remaining 10. Work back to the neckline and slip the other shoulder stitches onto a stitch holder. Work 4 or six rows more, then join front and back shoulder seams on the right side. Work left shoulder to the same length and slip stitches onto stitch holder. Pick up stitches evenly all the way around the neckline on double points, (just easier to work with on rounded shapes)- I found 48 stitches fit neatly. Work 1x1 rib, two rows of main color, one row contrast, breaking yarn at end, two rows of main color, bind off in pattern. Work a flap of 1x1 rib on right back shoulder to overlap front right shoulder, with one (or two) buttonholes worked at neck edge (if two another at center), no contrast.
Cast on 24 in main color, work one row 1x1 in main color, switch to contrast color for one row, switch to main color and knit to length. For a six month size 10" should be fine. Make two. Sew onto body, making sure to overlap the back right shoulder over the right front shoulder carefully. Add button(s) at right shoulder to line up with buttonholes. Weave in all ends and you're done.
Now, will the pattern actually work? Let's find out!
I think the answer to the question is a resounding YES! The final detail is the button. It is a simple crochet button, made from the same lime green cotton as the accents in the sweater itself. Unlike hard buttons, this one is soft and squishy, while it still does it's job. Make three chains, join, work as many single stitches as fit to make a disk, slip stitch and chain one then work two stitches into each stitch, slip and knot, then cut a long tail. Weave to the center through the back of the stitches, then sew securely in place with both the starting and the ending tails, tie off and trim ends.