In Progress: A Clockwork Vert

Jan 10, 2011 23:18

I've been thinking and plotting this piece for about six months. I had an idea about a bustle gown with the bustles held up by watch faces with cogs and chains connecting them. It took a while to sort it all out, but I figured out a few final details this weekend, so I started the piece.



It actually started a few weeks ago, when I began construction of the watch face pins, and cog bits. I picked up a tiny tin of watch pieces and two packets of old watch faces on eBay, my roommate's boyfriend supplied used mandolin strings (unwound from the core, they make wonderful tiny springs) and a LOT of epoxy (mostly on my fingers and not the cogs.)







Then came the design layout itself. I wanted to keep it mostly Victorian, but with a fun and funky twist. I added a slit to the front and some mini ruffles.


I had picked up some olive moleskin -perfect for this, as it's soft but durably utilitarian. Unfortunately, they only had just enough for the skirt, so the ruffles will have to be made out of something else. I'm thinking possibly olive bias tape.


I created the basic skirt -using a Truly Victorian pattern with some minor shape modifications.


And then started the real modification -adding the slit and pocket, and adding more bustling.


Next step: MAGPIE!

Lots of chains, charms and findings. I realized once I started adding pieces, that it would have to be lighter pieces, and that my original scheme of antiqued brass/gold disappeared on the olive. Thank goodness for the "other" stash of chains and my gold leaf pen! Some pieces went from dark to very shiny in about 5 minutes, including a plastic yarn needle.

The chain placement started, starting at the sides.




Since I was waiting for trim for ruffles, I knew everything had to be removable. I then decided that it should all be removable anyway, so it could either be transferred onto another piece, or so the skirt could be laundered/repaired. The chains are currently being held by pins, but there will be small jump rings sewn to the gown, and the end chains will be finished with lobster claw clasps. All the watch faces are pins, with jump rings from the chains slid onto the pinbacks and sandwiched between fabric gathers so they won't slide around.




Once the chain placement was decided, I added jump rings (including making some, due to the size of the smallest chains) at all pin points and connections, and added charms of various styles and weights, including combining some smaller ones onto single jump rings, and constructing others.


(a small jar of watch cogs and springs)



(note the gold needle with the chain threaded through it on the lower chain below the locket.)

Final chain adds -tassels to provide movement and finish, weighted at the ends with citrine beads and charms:


Now that the main placement is finished, I get to mark the locations of permanent jump rings, sew them in place, and then take everything off and start the three rows of ruffles.

*pant* so that's what I did on Saturday afternoon and Sunday evening. I'm hoping to be able to wear it to Arisia on Saturday afternoon, along with a tailored victorian blouse and hat.
Accessories to come for this outfit: Modified sleeve guards (a fun piece I need to sketch out) and a coordinating corselet.
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