Today Is Elspethsheir's Online Tea Party
So here is Cook's Illustrated's Afternoon Tea Dishes and Delights
...
AMERICA'S TEST KITCHEN VIDEO OF THE WEEK: Spritz Cookies
These beautiful cookies are sure to be a showstopper at any holiday party. The secret to these light, crispy, buttery treats lies in how you balance and blend just a few simple ingredients: butter, cream, sugar, eggs, and flour. When it comes time to form them, use a cookie press or a piping bag.
Afternoon Tea
We've added a variety of savory and sweet dishes for this traditionally late afternoon meal. If you don't want to make the two side dishes to serve with the gravlax (onion relish and cilantro cream), you can serve it with capers, minced red onions, and chive-flavored cream cheese.
• Classic Lemon Tart
• Onion Relish for Gravlax
• Gravlax
• Cilantro Cream
• Raspberry Streusel Bars
• Grissini-Ultra-Thin Italian Breadsticks
• Pecan Sandies
• 15-Minute Chocolate Walnut Fudge
• Pound Cake with Orange Essence
• Bacon, Garlic, and Thyme Gougeres
...
Classic Lemon Tart
The filling is a lemon curd adapted for this tart. Once the lemon curd ingredients have been combined, cook the curd immediately; otherwise it will have a grainy finished texture. To prevent the curd from acquiring a metallic taste, make absolutely sure that all utensils coming into contact with it--bowls, whisk, saucepan, and strainer--are made of non-reactive stainless steel or glass. Since the tart pan has a removable bottom, it is more easily maneuvered when set on a cookie sheet. If your pre-baked tart shell has already cooled, place it in the oven just before you start the curd and heat it until warm, about 5 minutes. Serve the tart with lightly whipped cream, the perfect accompaniment to the rich, intensely lemon filling.
Serves 8
1 fully baked warm tart shell (9- to 9 1/2-inch) -- see related recipe
7 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup lemon juice from 4 to 5 medium lemons
1/4 cup grated lemon zest
pinch table salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Place tart pan with shell on cookie sheet.
2. In medium non-reactive bowl, whisk together yolks and whole eggs until combined, about 5 seconds. Add sugar and whisk until just combined, about 5 seconds. Add lemon juice, zest, and salt; whisk until combined, about 5 seconds. Transfer mixture to medium non-reactive saucepan, add butter pieces, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until curd thickens to thin saucelike consistency and registers 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 5 minutes. Immediately pour curd through single-mesh stainless steel strainer set over clean non-reactive bowl. Stir in heavy cream; pour curd into warm tart shell immediately.
3. Bake until filling is shiny and opaque and until the center 3 inches jiggle slightly when shaken, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool on wire rack to room temperature, about 45 minutes. Remove outer metal ring, slide thin metal spatula between bottom crust and tart pan bottom to release, then slip tart onto cardboard round or serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Judging When the Curd is Cooked
1. At first, the curd will appear thin and soupy.
2. When the spatula leaves a clear trail in the bottom of the saucepan (which quickly disappears), the curd is ready to come off heat.
3. If the curd continues to cook, it will become thick and pasty, and a spatula will leave a wide clear trail.
Onion Relish for Gravlax
The onions are cooked slowly to bring out their sweetness while the sugar and vinegar temper the heat of the jalapeños, but use sparingly.
Makes 2 cups
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium white onions (about 1 pound), peeled and diced fine
2 serrano chiles , or jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 medium red bell pepper , cored, seeded, and diced fine
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
Heat oil in large sauté pan. Add onions; cook over medium heat until soft but not colored, 7 to 9 minutes. Stir in chile and bell peppers; continue to cook until all vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in sugar and vinegar and cook until pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to airtight container. (Relish can be refrigerated up to 1 week.) Bring to room temperature before serving.
Gravlax
If you have a juicer, you may use it to make the onion juice. Although a little more time-consuming, onion juice can also be made by grinding onions in a food processor until liquefied, about four minutes. Strain the onions through a double thickness of cheesecloth, squeezing to extract the juice. Serve sliced gravlax with lightly toasted rye bread and the related recipes (Onion Relish and Cilantro Cream).
Makes 1 side of cured salmon
3 medium red onions , peeled, quartered, juiced, and foam skimmed to yield 2 about 2 cups juice (see note above)
1 cup kosher salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cups chopped fresh dill leaves (both stems and leaves)
1 whole salmon fillet (3 to 4 pounds), skinned, excess fat and brown flesh removed, and bones removed with tweezers (see illustrations 1 through 5)
1 cup minced fresh dill
1. Pour onion juice into 4-cup glass measure. Add salt and sugar; stir to dissolve. Stir in pepper and the coarsely chopped dill.
2. Place salmon in 2-gallon zipper-lock bag. Pour in marinade, seal bag, and place on jelly roll pan (illustration 6). Marinade should barely cover fish. Place second jelly roll pan over fish and set about 7 pounds of weight (heavy cans or bricks work well) on top pan (illustration 7). Refrigerate weighted fish until very firm, 12 to 18 hours, depending on thickness of fish.
3. Remove salmon fillet from bag and dry with paper towels. Evenly distribute the minced dill over belly side of the fillet, then press dill into flesh (illustration 8). (Gravlax can be wrapped in parchment paper then plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 1 week.)
4. Just before serving, place fillet, belly side up, on work surface. Following illustrations 9 and 10, slice desired amount of gravlax. Rewrap and refrigerate unsliced gravlax for later use.
STEP BY STEP: Gravlax
1. With the tail of the salmon pointing perpendicularly to your body, make a small cut just above the tail end. Cut down through the meat but stop just before you get to the skin.
2. Holding onto the tail end by the skin, run a long, flexible slicing knife between the flesh and the skin. Keeping the skin taut and checking the edges of the fillet to make sure the knife is just above the skin, slide the blade toward the head end until the skin is completely removed.
3. Use the slicing knife to trim any excess white fat from the fillet. Fat is most concentrated along the edges of the fillet.
4. Turn the fillet over and trim off any brownish flesh or white fat. Fillets should be uniformly orange.
5. Pin bones run from the head end about halfway back along the fillet. Feel for these bones and pull them toward the head end with small tweezers to remove.
6. Place the salmon in a 2-gallon zipper-lock bag, add the marinade, seal the bag, and place it on a jelly roll pan.
7. Place a second jelly roll pan over the fish and set about 7 pounds of weight (heavy cans or bricks work well) on the top pan.
8. Evenly distribute minced dill over the belly side of the fish, then press the dill into the flesh.
9. Starting at the tail end, make a cut on the bias back toward the tail. Hold the knife at about a 20-degree angle and make a slice about 1/8 inch thick.
10. Continue making cuts, moving 1/8 inch up toward the head end each time, slicing desired amount.
Cilantro Cream
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
4 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
Mix crème fraîche and cilantro in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (Cream can be made 1 day in advance.)
Raspberry Streusel Bars
This recipe can be made in a standing mixer or a food processor. Frozen raspberries can be substituted for fresh; be sure to defrost them before combining with the raspberry preserves. If your fresh raspberries are very tart, add only 1 or 2 teaspoons of lemon juice to the filling. The bars are best eaten the day they are baked but can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days (the crust and streusel will soften slightly with storage).
Makes twenty-four 2-inch squares
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (12 1/2 ounces)
2/3 cup granulated sugar (about 4 3/4 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon table salt
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and softened to cool room temperature
1/4 cup packed brown sugar (1 3/4 ounces), light or dark
1/2 cup rolled oats (1 1/2 ounces), old-fashioned
1/2 cup pecans (2 ounces), chopped fine
3/4 cup rasberry preserves (8 1/2 ounces)
3/4 cup fresh raspberries (3 1/2 ounces)
1 tablespoon lemon juice from 1 lemon
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 375 degrees. Cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13 by 9-inch baking dish, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and fit into width of baking pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. (If using extra-wide foil, fold second sheet lengthwise to 12-inch width.) Spray foil-lined pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In bowl of standing mixer fitted with flat beater, mix flour, granulated sugar, and salt at low speed until combined, about 5 seconds. With machine on low, add 16 tablespoons butter one piece at a time; then continue mixing on low until mixture resembles damp sand, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (If using food processor, process flour, granulated sugar, and salt until combined, about 5 seconds. Scatter 16 tablespoons butter pieces over flour mixture and pulse until mixture resembles damp sand, about twenty 1-second pulses.)
3. Measure 1 1/4 cups flour mixture into medium bowl and set aside; distribute remaining flour mixture evenly in bottom of prepared baking pan. Using hands or flat-bottomed measuring cup, firmly press mixture into even layer to form bottom crust. Bake until edges begin to brown, 14 to 18 minutes.
4. While crust is baking, add brown sugar, oats, and nuts to reserved flour mixture; toss to combine. Work in remaining 2 tablespoons butter by rubbing mixture between fingers until butter is fully incorporated. Pinch mixture with fingers to create hazelnut-sized clumps; set streusel aside.
5. Combine preserves, raspberries, and lemon juice in small bowl; mash with fork until combined but some berry pieces remain.
6. Spread filling evenly over hot crust; sprinkle streusel topping evenly over filling (do not press streusel into filling). Return pan to oven and bake until topping is deep golden brown and filling is bubbling, 22 to 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature on wire rack, 1 to 2 hours; remove from baking pan by lifting foil extensions. Using chef's knife, cut into squares and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Raspberry Bar Rules
1. Press bottom crust firmly and evenly into foil-lined pan.
2. Spread fruit filling over hot bottom crust with spatula.
3. Sprinkle streusel evenly over filling, but resist urge to press it in.
Grissini-Ultra-Thin Italian Breadsticks
Feel free to use olive oil-flavored cooking spray or an oil-pump sprayer filled with olive oil. The breadsticks must be stretch longer than the baking sheet because they will contract.
Makes about 30
Dough
7/8 cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups bread flour , plus more for dusting work surface and hands
1 teaspoon instant yeast
3/4 teaspoon table salt
Topping
1 1/2 teaspoons Coarse salt , such as kosher
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds , chopped fine (optional)
1. For the Dough: Combine water and oil in 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Process flour, yeast, and salt in food processor, pulsing to combine. Continue pulsing while pouring liquid ingredients (holding back a few tablespoons) through feed tube. If dough doesn't readily form ball, add remaining liquid and continue to pulse until ball forms. Process until dough is smooth and elastic, about 30 seconds longer. Transfer dough to deep oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Press dough to deflate.
2. To Shape and Top the Grissini: Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large rimmed bakings sheets with parchment paper. Combine salt, pepper, fennel (if using) in small bowl; set aside.
3. Divide dough into two equal pieces. Working with one piece (and covering other piece with plastic), roll dough on heavily floured work surface to a 12 by 8-inch rectangle. Cut, stretch, and twist breadsticks following illustrations below, tranferring each to prepared baking sheet.
4. Liberally spray breadsticks with nonstick cooking spray and sprinkle with seasoning mixture. Bake breadsticks until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheets halfway through baking time. Slide breadsticks, still on parchment paper, onto wire racks; cool completely. Grissini are best eaten the day they are made.
STEP BY STEP: Shaping Grissini
1. Using pizza cutter or very sharp chef's knife and ruler, slice dough into 3/4-inch-wide strips.
2. Working with one strip at a time, fold strip in half lengthwise.
3. On damp work surface, roll strip into rope slightly longer than baking sheet (dough will contract).
Pecan Sandies
Once the dough is shaped into logs, it should be frozen for 30 minutes (to speed chilling) and then refrigerated for at least 2 hours. The chilled dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before being sliced and baked.
Makes about 32
1 1/2 cups pecan halves , plus about 32 pecan halves for pressing onto unbaked cookies
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar (1 ounce)
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar (3 1/2 ounces)
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (7 1/2 ounces)
1/4 teaspoon table salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter , 1 1/2 sticks, (cold), cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large egg yolk
1. Process 1 1/2 cups pecans with both sugars in food processor until nuts are ground, about twenty 1-second pulses. Add flour and salt and process to combine, about twelve 1-second pulses. Scatter butter pieces over dry ingredients and process until mixture looks like damp sand and rides up sides of bowl, about eighteen 1-second pulses. With machine running, add yolk and process until dough comes together into rough ball, about 20 seconds.
2. Turn dough (it will look scrappy and uneven) onto clean, dry work surface and gently knead until it is evenly moistened and cohesive. Using palms of your hands, roll dough into even 12-inch log; cut log in half and wrap each half in plastic wrap. Freeze dough logs until very cold but still malleable, about 30 minutes. Remove from freezer, unwrap, and roll on work surface to round off flat sides. Rewrap logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled and completely firm, about 2 hours.
3. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Unwrap dough logs and, using sharp chef's knife, slice logs into coins 1/4 inch thick, slightly rotating logs after each slice so that they do not develop markedly flat sides. Place slices on prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 3/4 inch apart. Press pecan half in center of each slice.
4. Bake until edges of cookies are golden brown, about 24 minutes, rotating baking sheets front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking time. Cool cookies 3 minutes, then transfer to rack and cool completely.
STEP BY STEP: Slicing Cookie Dough
Using a sharp chef's knife, slice the log of dough into thin rounds. To prevent one side from flattening, roll the dough an eighth of a turn after every slice.
15-Minute Chocolate Walnut Fudge
The quality of the chocolate used will affect the flavor and texture of the fudge. We prefer Ghirardelli semisweet and unsweetened chocolate in this recipe. Don't be tempted to make this fudge without the walnuts; they are crucial to the texture. If you prefer, you can use toasted nuts in this recipe. Make sure to remove the fudge from the double boiler before the chocolate is fully melted. If the chocolate stays in the double boiler too long, there is the possibility of the chocolate separating and producing a greasy fudge. This fudge will change texture and become drier the longer it is stored. Store the fudge, tightly wrapped in plastic, in a cool place for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for 3 months. If frozen, allow ample time to let it reach room temperature before cutting.
Makes about 2 1/2 pounds
16 ounces semisweet chocolate , chopped fine
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate , chopped fine
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon table salt
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1. Cut 12-inch length extra-wide heavy-duty aluminum foil; fold edges back to form 7 1/2-inch width. With folded sides facing down, fit foil securely into bottom and up sides of 8-inch-square baking pan, allowing excess to overhang pan sides. Spray foil with nonstick cooking spray.
2. Toss chocolates, baking soda, and salt in medium heatproof bowl until baking soda is evenly distributed. Stir in sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. Set bowl over 4-quart saucepan containing 2 cups simmering water. Stir with rubber spatula until chocolate is almost fully melted and few small pieces remain, 2 to 4 minutes.
3. Remove bowl from heat and continue to stir until chocolate is fully melted and mixture is smooth, about 2 minutes. Stir in walnuts. Transfer fudge to prepared pan and spread in even layer with spatula. Refrigerate until set, about 2 hours. Remove fudge from pan using foil and cut into squares.
TO MAKE DOUBLE BATCH:
Line 13 by 9-inch pan with two sheets of foil placed perpendicular to each other and double amounts of all ingredients. In step 2, use large heatproof bowl and Dutch oven containing 4 cups simmering water.
STEP BY STEP: Three Key Ingredients to Quick, Reliable Fudge
SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK: Takes the place of traditional sugar syrup.
BAKING SODA: Increases the pH of the fudge and makes the texture firmer.
UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE: Adds intensity and tames excessive sweetness.
Pound Cake with Orange Essence
As directed in the recipe, the butter and eggs should be the first ingredients prepared so they have a chance to stand at room temperature and lose their chill while the oven heats, the loaf pan is greased and floured, and the other ingredients are measured. Leftover cake will keep reasonably well for up to 3 days if wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature.
Makes one 9 by 5-inch loaf
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), cold, plus extra for greasing pan
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups cake flour (7 ounces), plus extra for dusting pan
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 1/4 cups sugar (8 3/4 ounces)
1 tablespoon grated orange zest , minced
1. Cut butter into 1-tablespoon pieces and place in bowl of standing mixer; let stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes to soften slightly (butter should reach no more than 60 degrees). Using dinner fork, beat eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla in liquid measuring cup until combined. Let egg mixture stand at room temperature until ready to use.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Generously butter 9 by 5-inch loaf pan; dust pan liberally with flour and knock out excess.
3. In standing mixer fitted with flat beater, beat butter and salt at medium-high speed until shiny, smooth, and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping bottom and sides of bowl once with rubber spatula. Reduce speed to medium; with mixer running, gradually pour in sugar (this should take about 60 seconds). Once all sugar is added, increase speed to medium-high and beat until mixture is fluffy and almost white in color, 5 to 8 minutes, scraping bottom and sides of bowl once. With mixer running at medium speed, gradually add egg mixture in slow, steady stream; this should take 60 to 90 seconds. Add orange zest to mixer. Scrape bottom and sides of bowl; beat mixture at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes (mixture may look slightly broken). Remove bowl from mixer; scrape bottom and sides.
4. In 3 additions, sift flour over butter/egg mixture; after each addition, fold gently with rubber spatula until combined. Scrape along bottom of bowl to ensure that batter is homogenous.
5. Transfer batter to prepared loaf pan and smooth surface with rubber spatula. Bake until golden brown and wooden skewer inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 70 to 80 minutes. Cool cake in pan on wire rack for 15 minutes; invert cake onto wire rack, then turn cake right side up. Cool cake on rack to room temperature, about 2 hours. Slice and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Unsuccessful Creaming
Cool butter and thorough mixing are essential to our pound cake recipe. These photos demonstrate unsuccessful creaming.
ROOM TEMPERATURE BUTTER: Room temperature butter (70 degrees) yields completely to pressure.
OVERCREAMED BATTER: Once sugar has been incorporated, butter temperature will rise to about 75 degrees. Batter will be very soft and look slick, shiny, and wet.
FLAT CAKE: Cake will be flat and dense.
STEP BY STEP: Slow As You Go
Pound cake batter is so delicate that it will deflate if you add the eggs one at a time or add the flour too quickly, as most recipes suggest.
EGGS: : With mixer running, pour in beaten egg mixture in slow, steady stream.
FLOUR: Sift flour over batter in three additions, folding in each addition with spatula.
STEP BY STEP: Sucessful Creaming
Cool butter and thorough mixing are essential to our pound cake recipe. These guidelines will help you determine when the butter is at the correct temperature and when the butter and sugar are properly creamed.
CHILLY BUTTER: Cool butter (60 degrees) yields slightly to pressure and will crack when pressed.
PERFECTLY CREAMED BATTER: Once sugar has been incorporated, butter temperature will rise to about 68 degrees. Batter will be light, fluffy, and off-white in color.
DOMED CAKE: Cake will dome nicely.
Bacon, Garlic, and Thyme Gougeres
If you prefer smaller gougères, simply use a smaller tip on the piping bag. Pay close attention as they bake because smaller puffs may require a shorter baking time. Gougères are best served warm, although they can be made in advance and reheated as needed.
Makes fifteen 2-inch puffs
7 slices bacon , minced
4 medium cloves garlic , minced
2 large eggs , plus 1 large egg white
6 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 6 pieces
2 tablespoons whole milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (2 1/2 ounces), sifted
3 ounces Gruyère, Emmentaler, or Swiss cheese , shredded (about 1 cup)
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1. Beat eggs and egg white in measuring cup or small bowl; you should have 1/2 cup (discard excess). Set aside.
1. In small skillet, fry minced bacon over medium heat until almost crisp, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Drain mixture through small strainer, reserving 2 tablespoons bacon fat. Set aside.
2. Bring water, butter, bacon fat, milk, and salt to boil in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring once or twice (see illustration 1). When mixture reaches full boil (butter should be fully melted), immediately remove saucepan from heat and stir in flour with heatproof spatula or wooden spoon until combined and mixture clears sides of pan. Return saucepan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, using a smearing motion (illustration 2), until mixture is slightly shiny, looks like wet sand, and tiny beads of fat appear on bottom of saucepan, about 3 minutes (paste should register 175 to 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer).
4. Immediately transfer mixture to food processor and process with feed tube open for 10 seconds to cool slightly. With machine running, gradually add eggs in a steady stream (illustration 3). When all eggs have been added, scrape down sides of bowl and add Gruyère and cayenne to food processor. Process for 30 seconds until a smooth, thick, sticky paste forms. Pulse bacon-garlic mixture and thyme into batter until mixed. (If not using immediately, transfer paste to medium bowl, press sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray directly on surface, and store at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
5. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray large baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment paper; set sheet aside.
6. Fold down top 3 or 4 inches of large pastry bag fitted with 1/2-inch plain tip to form cuff. Following illustrations 4 through 6, hold bag open with one hand in cuff and fill bag with paste. Unfold cuff, place bag on work surface, and, using your hands, push paste toward tip of pastry bag. Twist top of bag and pipe paste onto prepared baking sheet into 16 evenly spaced 2-inch mounds. Use back of teaspoon dipped in bowl of cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.
7. Bake 15 minutes (do not open oven door), then reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake until golden brown and fairly firm, 12 to 14 minutes longer. Remove baking sheet from oven. With paring knife, cut 3/4-inch slit into side of each puff to release steam; return to oven, turn off oven, and prop oven door open with handle of wooden spoon. After 10 minutes, transfer puffs to wire rack. Serve warm. (Gougères can be cooled completely and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours or frozen in zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. Before serving, crisp room-temperature gougères in 300-degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes; crisp frozen gougères for 8 to 10 minutes.)
STEP BY STEP: Making Gougères
1. Occasionally stir butter mixture until it comes to full boil. Remove pan from heat.
2. Add flour, return pan to low heat, and cook paste for 3 minutes, stirring constantly and using smearing motion.
3. With feed tube open, process paste for 10 seconds, then add eggs in steady stream.
4. Fill pastry bag with paste, push paste to bottom of bag using your hands, and twist top of bag to seal.
5. Holding tip 1/2 inch above prepared baking sheet, pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds.
6. Use back of teaspoon dipped in cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.
...
AMERICA'S TEST KITCHEN VIDEO OF THE WEEK: Spritz Cookies
These beautiful cookies are sure to be a showstopper at any holiday party. The secret to these light, crispy, buttery treats lies in how you balance and blend just a few simple ingredients: butter, cream, sugar, eggs, and flour. When it comes time to form them, use a cookie press or a piping bag.
Afternoon Tea
We've added a variety of savory and sweet dishes for this traditionally late afternoon meal. If you don't want to make the two side dishes to serve with the gravlax (onion relish and cilantro cream), you can serve it with capers, minced red onions, and chive-flavored cream cheese.
• Classic Lemon Tart
• Onion Relish for Gravlax
• Gravlax
• Cilantro Cream
• Raspberry Streusel Bars
• Grissini-Ultra-Thin Italian Breadsticks
• Pecan Sandies
• 15-Minute Chocolate Walnut Fudge
• Pound Cake with Orange Essence
• Bacon, Garlic, and Thyme Gougeres
...
Classic Lemon Tart
The filling is a lemon curd adapted for this tart. Once the lemon curd ingredients have been combined, cook the curd immediately; otherwise it will have a grainy finished texture. To prevent the curd from acquiring a metallic taste, make absolutely sure that all utensils coming into contact with it--bowls, whisk, saucepan, and strainer--are made of non-reactive stainless steel or glass. Since the tart pan has a removable bottom, it is more easily maneuvered when set on a cookie sheet. If your pre-baked tart shell has already cooled, place it in the oven just before you start the curd and heat it until warm, about 5 minutes. Serve the tart with lightly whipped cream, the perfect accompaniment to the rich, intensely lemon filling.
Serves 8
1 fully baked warm tart shell (9- to 9 1/2-inch) -- see related recipe
7 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup lemon juice from 4 to 5 medium lemons
1/4 cup grated lemon zest
pinch table salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Place tart pan with shell on cookie sheet.
2. In medium non-reactive bowl, whisk together yolks and whole eggs until combined, about 5 seconds. Add sugar and whisk until just combined, about 5 seconds. Add lemon juice, zest, and salt; whisk until combined, about 5 seconds. Transfer mixture to medium non-reactive saucepan, add butter pieces, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until curd thickens to thin saucelike consistency and registers 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 5 minutes. Immediately pour curd through single-mesh stainless steel strainer set over clean non-reactive bowl. Stir in heavy cream; pour curd into warm tart shell immediately.
3. Bake until filling is shiny and opaque and until the center 3 inches jiggle slightly when shaken, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool on wire rack to room temperature, about 45 minutes. Remove outer metal ring, slide thin metal spatula between bottom crust and tart pan bottom to release, then slip tart onto cardboard round or serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Judging When the Curd is Cooked
1. At first, the curd will appear thin and soupy.
2. When the spatula leaves a clear trail in the bottom of the saucepan (which quickly disappears), the curd is ready to come off heat.
3. If the curd continues to cook, it will become thick and pasty, and a spatula will leave a wide clear trail.
Onion Relish for Gravlax
The onions are cooked slowly to bring out their sweetness while the sugar and vinegar temper the heat of the jalapeños, but use sparingly.
Makes 2 cups
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium white onions (about 1 pound), peeled and diced fine
2 serrano chiles , or jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 medium red bell pepper , cored, seeded, and diced fine
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
Heat oil in large sauté pan. Add onions; cook over medium heat until soft but not colored, 7 to 9 minutes. Stir in chile and bell peppers; continue to cook until all vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in sugar and vinegar and cook until pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to airtight container. (Relish can be refrigerated up to 1 week.) Bring to room temperature before serving.
Gravlax
If you have a juicer, you may use it to make the onion juice. Although a little more time-consuming, onion juice can also be made by grinding onions in a food processor until liquefied, about four minutes. Strain the onions through a double thickness of cheesecloth, squeezing to extract the juice. Serve sliced gravlax with lightly toasted rye bread and the related recipes (Onion Relish and Cilantro Cream).
Makes 1 side of cured salmon
3 medium red onions , peeled, quartered, juiced, and foam skimmed to yield 2 about 2 cups juice (see note above)
1 cup kosher salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cups chopped fresh dill leaves (both stems and leaves)
1 whole salmon fillet (3 to 4 pounds), skinned, excess fat and brown flesh removed, and bones removed with tweezers (see illustrations 1 through 5)
1 cup minced fresh dill
1. Pour onion juice into 4-cup glass measure. Add salt and sugar; stir to dissolve. Stir in pepper and the coarsely chopped dill.
2. Place salmon in 2-gallon zipper-lock bag. Pour in marinade, seal bag, and place on jelly roll pan (illustration 6). Marinade should barely cover fish. Place second jelly roll pan over fish and set about 7 pounds of weight (heavy cans or bricks work well) on top pan (illustration 7). Refrigerate weighted fish until very firm, 12 to 18 hours, depending on thickness of fish.
3. Remove salmon fillet from bag and dry with paper towels. Evenly distribute the minced dill over belly side of the fillet, then press dill into flesh (illustration 8). (Gravlax can be wrapped in parchment paper then plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 1 week.)
4. Just before serving, place fillet, belly side up, on work surface. Following illustrations 9 and 10, slice desired amount of gravlax. Rewrap and refrigerate unsliced gravlax for later use.
STEP BY STEP: Gravlax
1. With the tail of the salmon pointing perpendicularly to your body, make a small cut just above the tail end. Cut down through the meat but stop just before you get to the skin.
2. Holding onto the tail end by the skin, run a long, flexible slicing knife between the flesh and the skin. Keeping the skin taut and checking the edges of the fillet to make sure the knife is just above the skin, slide the blade toward the head end until the skin is completely removed.
3. Use the slicing knife to trim any excess white fat from the fillet. Fat is most concentrated along the edges of the fillet.
4. Turn the fillet over and trim off any brownish flesh or white fat. Fillets should be uniformly orange.
5. Pin bones run from the head end about halfway back along the fillet. Feel for these bones and pull them toward the head end with small tweezers to remove.
6. Place the salmon in a 2-gallon zipper-lock bag, add the marinade, seal the bag, and place it on a jelly roll pan.
7. Place a second jelly roll pan over the fish and set about 7 pounds of weight (heavy cans or bricks work well) on the top pan.
8. Evenly distribute minced dill over the belly side of the fish, then press the dill into the flesh.
9. Starting at the tail end, make a cut on the bias back toward the tail. Hold the knife at about a 20-degree angle and make a slice about 1/8 inch thick.
10. Continue making cuts, moving 1/8 inch up toward the head end each time, slicing desired amount.
Cilantro Cream
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
4 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
Mix crème fraîche and cilantro in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (Cream can be made 1 day in advance.)
Raspberry Streusel Bars
This recipe can be made in a standing mixer or a food processor. Frozen raspberries can be substituted for fresh; be sure to defrost them before combining with the raspberry preserves. If your fresh raspberries are very tart, add only 1 or 2 teaspoons of lemon juice to the filling. The bars are best eaten the day they are baked but can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days (the crust and streusel will soften slightly with storage).
Makes twenty-four 2-inch squares
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (12 1/2 ounces)
2/3 cup granulated sugar (about 4 3/4 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon table salt
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and softened to cool room temperature
1/4 cup packed brown sugar (1 3/4 ounces), light or dark
1/2 cup rolled oats (1 1/2 ounces), old-fashioned
1/2 cup pecans (2 ounces), chopped fine
3/4 cup rasberry preserves (8 1/2 ounces)
3/4 cup fresh raspberries (3 1/2 ounces)
1 tablespoon lemon juice from 1 lemon
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 375 degrees. Cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13 by 9-inch baking dish, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and fit into width of baking pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. (If using extra-wide foil, fold second sheet lengthwise to 12-inch width.) Spray foil-lined pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In bowl of standing mixer fitted with flat beater, mix flour, granulated sugar, and salt at low speed until combined, about 5 seconds. With machine on low, add 16 tablespoons butter one piece at a time; then continue mixing on low until mixture resembles damp sand, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (If using food processor, process flour, granulated sugar, and salt until combined, about 5 seconds. Scatter 16 tablespoons butter pieces over flour mixture and pulse until mixture resembles damp sand, about twenty 1-second pulses.)
3. Measure 1 1/4 cups flour mixture into medium bowl and set aside; distribute remaining flour mixture evenly in bottom of prepared baking pan. Using hands or flat-bottomed measuring cup, firmly press mixture into even layer to form bottom crust. Bake until edges begin to brown, 14 to 18 minutes.
4. While crust is baking, add brown sugar, oats, and nuts to reserved flour mixture; toss to combine. Work in remaining 2 tablespoons butter by rubbing mixture between fingers until butter is fully incorporated. Pinch mixture with fingers to create hazelnut-sized clumps; set streusel aside.
5. Combine preserves, raspberries, and lemon juice in small bowl; mash with fork until combined but some berry pieces remain.
6. Spread filling evenly over hot crust; sprinkle streusel topping evenly over filling (do not press streusel into filling). Return pan to oven and bake until topping is deep golden brown and filling is bubbling, 22 to 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature on wire rack, 1 to 2 hours; remove from baking pan by lifting foil extensions. Using chef's knife, cut into squares and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Raspberry Bar Rules
1. Press bottom crust firmly and evenly into foil-lined pan.
2. Spread fruit filling over hot bottom crust with spatula.
3. Sprinkle streusel evenly over filling, but resist urge to press it in.
Grissini-Ultra-Thin Italian Breadsticks
Feel free to use olive oil-flavored cooking spray or an oil-pump sprayer filled with olive oil. The breadsticks must be stretch longer than the baking sheet because they will contract.
Makes about 30
Dough
7/8 cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups bread flour , plus more for dusting work surface and hands
1 teaspoon instant yeast
3/4 teaspoon table salt
Topping
1 1/2 teaspoons Coarse salt , such as kosher
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds , chopped fine (optional)
1. For the Dough: Combine water and oil in 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Process flour, yeast, and salt in food processor, pulsing to combine. Continue pulsing while pouring liquid ingredients (holding back a few tablespoons) through feed tube. If dough doesn't readily form ball, add remaining liquid and continue to pulse until ball forms. Process until dough is smooth and elastic, about 30 seconds longer. Transfer dough to deep oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Press dough to deflate.
2. To Shape and Top the Grissini: Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large rimmed bakings sheets with parchment paper. Combine salt, pepper, fennel (if using) in small bowl; set aside.
3. Divide dough into two equal pieces. Working with one piece (and covering other piece with plastic), roll dough on heavily floured work surface to a 12 by 8-inch rectangle. Cut, stretch, and twist breadsticks following illustrations below, tranferring each to prepared baking sheet.
4. Liberally spray breadsticks with nonstick cooking spray and sprinkle with seasoning mixture. Bake breadsticks until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheets halfway through baking time. Slide breadsticks, still on parchment paper, onto wire racks; cool completely. Grissini are best eaten the day they are made.
STEP BY STEP: Shaping Grissini
1. Using pizza cutter or very sharp chef's knife and ruler, slice dough into 3/4-inch-wide strips.
2. Working with one strip at a time, fold strip in half lengthwise.
3. On damp work surface, roll strip into rope slightly longer than baking sheet (dough will contract).
Pecan Sandies
Once the dough is shaped into logs, it should be frozen for 30 minutes (to speed chilling) and then refrigerated for at least 2 hours. The chilled dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before being sliced and baked.
Makes about 32
1 1/2 cups pecan halves , plus about 32 pecan halves for pressing onto unbaked cookies
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar (1 ounce)
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar (3 1/2 ounces)
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (7 1/2 ounces)
1/4 teaspoon table salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter , 1 1/2 sticks, (cold), cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large egg yolk
1. Process 1 1/2 cups pecans with both sugars in food processor until nuts are ground, about twenty 1-second pulses. Add flour and salt and process to combine, about twelve 1-second pulses. Scatter butter pieces over dry ingredients and process until mixture looks like damp sand and rides up sides of bowl, about eighteen 1-second pulses. With machine running, add yolk and process until dough comes together into rough ball, about 20 seconds.
2. Turn dough (it will look scrappy and uneven) onto clean, dry work surface and gently knead until it is evenly moistened and cohesive. Using palms of your hands, roll dough into even 12-inch log; cut log in half and wrap each half in plastic wrap. Freeze dough logs until very cold but still malleable, about 30 minutes. Remove from freezer, unwrap, and roll on work surface to round off flat sides. Rewrap logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled and completely firm, about 2 hours.
3. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Unwrap dough logs and, using sharp chef's knife, slice logs into coins 1/4 inch thick, slightly rotating logs after each slice so that they do not develop markedly flat sides. Place slices on prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 3/4 inch apart. Press pecan half in center of each slice.
4. Bake until edges of cookies are golden brown, about 24 minutes, rotating baking sheets front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking time. Cool cookies 3 minutes, then transfer to rack and cool completely.
STEP BY STEP: Slicing Cookie Dough
Using a sharp chef's knife, slice the log of dough into thin rounds. To prevent one side from flattening, roll the dough an eighth of a turn after every slice.
15-Minute Chocolate Walnut Fudge
The quality of the chocolate used will affect the flavor and texture of the fudge. We prefer Ghirardelli semisweet and unsweetened chocolate in this recipe. Don't be tempted to make this fudge without the walnuts; they are crucial to the texture. If you prefer, you can use toasted nuts in this recipe. Make sure to remove the fudge from the double boiler before the chocolate is fully melted. If the chocolate stays in the double boiler too long, there is the possibility of the chocolate separating and producing a greasy fudge. This fudge will change texture and become drier the longer it is stored. Store the fudge, tightly wrapped in plastic, in a cool place for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for 3 months. If frozen, allow ample time to let it reach room temperature before cutting.
Makes about 2 1/2 pounds
16 ounces semisweet chocolate , chopped fine
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate , chopped fine
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon table salt
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1. Cut 12-inch length extra-wide heavy-duty aluminum foil; fold edges back to form 7 1/2-inch width. With folded sides facing down, fit foil securely into bottom and up sides of 8-inch-square baking pan, allowing excess to overhang pan sides. Spray foil with nonstick cooking spray.
2. Toss chocolates, baking soda, and salt in medium heatproof bowl until baking soda is evenly distributed. Stir in sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. Set bowl over 4-quart saucepan containing 2 cups simmering water. Stir with rubber spatula until chocolate is almost fully melted and few small pieces remain, 2 to 4 minutes.
3. Remove bowl from heat and continue to stir until chocolate is fully melted and mixture is smooth, about 2 minutes. Stir in walnuts. Transfer fudge to prepared pan and spread in even layer with spatula. Refrigerate until set, about 2 hours. Remove fudge from pan using foil and cut into squares.
TO MAKE DOUBLE BATCH:
Line 13 by 9-inch pan with two sheets of foil placed perpendicular to each other and double amounts of all ingredients. In step 2, use large heatproof bowl and Dutch oven containing 4 cups simmering water.
STEP BY STEP: Three Key Ingredients to Quick, Reliable Fudge
SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK: Takes the place of traditional sugar syrup.
BAKING SODA: Increases the pH of the fudge and makes the texture firmer.
UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE: Adds intensity and tames excessive sweetness.
Pound Cake with Orange Essence
As directed in the recipe, the butter and eggs should be the first ingredients prepared so they have a chance to stand at room temperature and lose their chill while the oven heats, the loaf pan is greased and floured, and the other ingredients are measured. Leftover cake will keep reasonably well for up to 3 days if wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature.
Makes one 9 by 5-inch loaf
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), cold, plus extra for greasing pan
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups cake flour (7 ounces), plus extra for dusting pan
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 1/4 cups sugar (8 3/4 ounces)
1 tablespoon grated orange zest , minced
1. Cut butter into 1-tablespoon pieces and place in bowl of standing mixer; let stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes to soften slightly (butter should reach no more than 60 degrees). Using dinner fork, beat eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla in liquid measuring cup until combined. Let egg mixture stand at room temperature until ready to use.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Generously butter 9 by 5-inch loaf pan; dust pan liberally with flour and knock out excess.
3. In standing mixer fitted with flat beater, beat butter and salt at medium-high speed until shiny, smooth, and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping bottom and sides of bowl once with rubber spatula. Reduce speed to medium; with mixer running, gradually pour in sugar (this should take about 60 seconds). Once all sugar is added, increase speed to medium-high and beat until mixture is fluffy and almost white in color, 5 to 8 minutes, scraping bottom and sides of bowl once. With mixer running at medium speed, gradually add egg mixture in slow, steady stream; this should take 60 to 90 seconds. Add orange zest to mixer. Scrape bottom and sides of bowl; beat mixture at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes (mixture may look slightly broken). Remove bowl from mixer; scrape bottom and sides.
4. In 3 additions, sift flour over butter/egg mixture; after each addition, fold gently with rubber spatula until combined. Scrape along bottom of bowl to ensure that batter is homogenous.
5. Transfer batter to prepared loaf pan and smooth surface with rubber spatula. Bake until golden brown and wooden skewer inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 70 to 80 minutes. Cool cake in pan on wire rack for 15 minutes; invert cake onto wire rack, then turn cake right side up. Cool cake on rack to room temperature, about 2 hours. Slice and serve.
STEP BY STEP: Unsuccessful Creaming
Cool butter and thorough mixing are essential to our pound cake recipe. These photos demonstrate unsuccessful creaming.
ROOM TEMPERATURE BUTTER: Room temperature butter (70 degrees) yields completely to pressure.
OVERCREAMED BATTER: Once sugar has been incorporated, butter temperature will rise to about 75 degrees. Batter will be very soft and look slick, shiny, and wet.
FLAT CAKE: Cake will be flat and dense.
STEP BY STEP: Slow As You Go
Pound cake batter is so delicate that it will deflate if you add the eggs one at a time or add the flour too quickly, as most recipes suggest.
EGGS: : With mixer running, pour in beaten egg mixture in slow, steady stream.
FLOUR: Sift flour over batter in three additions, folding in each addition with spatula.
STEP BY STEP: Sucessful Creaming
Cool butter and thorough mixing are essential to our pound cake recipe. These guidelines will help you determine when the butter is at the correct temperature and when the butter and sugar are properly creamed.
CHILLY BUTTER: Cool butter (60 degrees) yields slightly to pressure and will crack when pressed.
PERFECTLY CREAMED BATTER: Once sugar has been incorporated, butter temperature will rise to about 68 degrees. Batter will be light, fluffy, and off-white in color.
DOMED CAKE: Cake will dome nicely.
Bacon, Garlic, and Thyme Gougeres
If you prefer smaller gougères, simply use a smaller tip on the piping bag. Pay close attention as they bake because smaller puffs may require a shorter baking time. Gougères are best served warm, although they can be made in advance and reheated as needed.
Makes fifteen 2-inch puffs
7 slices bacon , minced
4 medium cloves garlic , minced
2 large eggs , plus 1 large egg white
6 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 6 pieces
2 tablespoons whole milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (2 1/2 ounces), sifted
3 ounces Gruyère, Emmentaler, or Swiss cheese , shredded (about 1 cup)
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1. Beat eggs and egg white in measuring cup or small bowl; you should have 1/2 cup (discard excess). Set aside.
1. In small skillet, fry minced bacon over medium heat until almost crisp, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Drain mixture through small strainer, reserving 2 tablespoons bacon fat. Set aside.
2. Bring water, butter, bacon fat, milk, and salt to boil in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring once or twice (see illustration 1). When mixture reaches full boil (butter should be fully melted), immediately remove saucepan from heat and stir in flour with heatproof spatula or wooden spoon until combined and mixture clears sides of pan. Return saucepan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, using a smearing motion (illustration 2), until mixture is slightly shiny, looks like wet sand, and tiny beads of fat appear on bottom of saucepan, about 3 minutes (paste should register 175 to 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer).
4. Immediately transfer mixture to food processor and process with feed tube open for 10 seconds to cool slightly. With machine running, gradually add eggs in a steady stream (illustration 3). When all eggs have been added, scrape down sides of bowl and add Gruyère and cayenne to food processor. Process for 30 seconds until a smooth, thick, sticky paste forms. Pulse bacon-garlic mixture and thyme into batter until mixed. (If not using immediately, transfer paste to medium bowl, press sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray directly on surface, and store at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
5. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray large baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment paper; set sheet aside.
6. Fold down top 3 or 4 inches of large pastry bag fitted with 1/2-inch plain tip to form cuff. Following illustrations 4 through 6, hold bag open with one hand in cuff and fill bag with paste. Unfold cuff, place bag on work surface, and, using your hands, push paste toward tip of pastry bag. Twist top of bag and pipe paste onto prepared baking sheet into 16 evenly spaced 2-inch mounds. Use back of teaspoon dipped in bowl of cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.
7. Bake 15 minutes (do not open oven door), then reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake until golden brown and fairly firm, 12 to 14 minutes longer. Remove baking sheet from oven. With paring knife, cut 3/4-inch slit into side of each puff to release steam; return to oven, turn off oven, and prop oven door open with handle of wooden spoon. After 10 minutes, transfer puffs to wire rack. Serve warm. (Gougères can be cooled completely and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours or frozen in zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. Before serving, crisp room-temperature gougères in 300-degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes; crisp frozen gougères for 8 to 10 minutes.)
STEP BY STEP: Making Gougères
1. Occasionally stir butter mixture until it comes to full boil. Remove pan from heat.
2. Add flour, return pan to low heat, and cook paste for 3 minutes, stirring constantly and using smearing motion.
3. With feed tube open, process paste for 10 seconds, then add eggs in steady stream.
4. Fill pastry bag with paste, push paste to bottom of bag using your hands, and twist top of bag to seal.
5. Holding tip 1/2 inch above prepared baking sheet, pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds.
6. Use back of teaspoon dipped in cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.