So the Paula of the Middle East, except 70 years old, is hosting me in Ramallah, the West Bank, and we were drinking local chardonnay and laughing when she said things like "don't worry about the money, I'm obscenely rich", and "Oh. . .why no, I haven't been in Iraq since the Revolution of 1958", and "in his fatigues, Sayeed looked like a god. You
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