I'm itching for the season to "start" down here...or at least for it to be warm enough I won't get hypothermic just looking at the water. Took my daughter to the pool to practice some kayak stuff on Saturday, probably while you were surfing, and got cold indoor with a farmer john and a 1 mil top on...I don't know if I'd be better on a board or not, but I'm sure I'd ignore it longer.
I totally know what you mean about being out there and just "being" and not worrying about all the other shit. That's why I love surfing...still planning a trip for April, though San Diego may be back on the table because a friend will have a crash pad for us, woohoo!
Still have to surf with you ladies sometime before my daughter leaves though...like I said, it would be good for her to see some women out there.
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I like it windy and wintry; makes the Atlantic move its lazy ass a bit.
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I totally know what you mean about being out there and just "being" and not worrying about all the other shit. That's why I love surfing...still planning a trip for April, though San Diego may be back on the table because a friend will have a crash pad for us, woohoo!
Still have to surf with you ladies sometime before my daughter leaves though...like I said, it would be good for her to see some women out there.
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