Andrew Coe's
Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States is informative and entertaining. Coe's a professional food critic and knows his subject, and he spends a decent amount of time on the history of Chinese and American interaction, the evolution of Chinese cuisine, how Chinese writers have viewed Chinese food, and so on.
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I take your point about stratification--same effect as places like Olive Garden on neighborhood eateries, unfortunately.
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As for learning more about the junks, if you do, please let me know. Interior descriptions are pretty much non-existent. The recent exhibition here in Paris - tous les bateaux du monde - showed a section diagram of a Japanese Fune from the 19th c, done by a French admiral. It's the only one I've ever seen. The catalogue's worth getting, if you're buying for the library, but alas it doesn't have the diagram! I believe there must be great documentation of SF's junks somewhere.
And I'm persistently amazed at how late SF and the west coast in general "enters history." It seems to me there are still Alaskan log rafts meandering into town in the 1870s and 1880s, and fur trappers and stuff like that. I'd be curious to know what happened between then and say 1930 to create a modern city.
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(and the pic they have of Chinatown on New Year's in, erm, 1904 I think it is is just FANTASTIC. No indication that it wasn't actually taken in China)
The other resource I suggest you tap is the Hyde St. Pier Maritime Museum. They've even built their own (albeit rather small) replica of a junk used by the Chinese population. They run a gift/bookshop and I suspect that whoever is behind the counter could recommend a title or two as I'm sure books have been written about 'em.
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Sounds interesting.
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