The whole utah trip

Oct 08, 2008 14:45

took me awhile to type and stuff, but here it is. I had broken it up to 3 parts on another blog, so if there is any weirdness, that's why :)

best word to describe it. Both Jeffery and i have been reading the blog this morning, commenting, laughing, and I've sprinkled in some comments here and there. It's weird to come back from this quiet, open space trip to read of so much change here in Seattle and NYC. Crazy.

Southern Utah and the north rim of the Grand Canyon are amazing. Actaully, words can't describe it, and the photo tweets are small indications. I haven't seen one picture of any of the parks we've been to that can capture what this stuff looks like in person.

Friday we got into Vegas and walked down the strip. It's nothing like Showgirls. Though I think the Stardust, the main venue of the movie, was torn down. there's a ton of construction going on there, and one of the projects is an entire block of buildings going up. it's amazing seeing all this stuff, and driving a little out of the strip to see nothing but dust and desert. The nudie-girl flapper guys were as annoying as cockroaches, trying to hand you their fliers and ads by nearly shoulder-butting you. It was funny the first few times, and I said "no thanks" but it was relentless. The best was the guys that had to wear these glowing back-strapped lit displays of the girls they were trying to sell. ooof. We walked nearly the whole strip, and looking in, meandering and getting a few drinks took about 5 hours. And I was done by that point. I forgot that people could smoke in casinos, too. That's a little downer for me. It wasn't a late night that night.



Showgirls moment
We woke up the next day and went to Trader Joe's to get Allysia some good food and dinner ideas for the week. After gathering $200 worth of food and present for her, we headed out in our blue PT Cruiser and headed for the Grand Canyon. This began the scenic journey that basically grew the further we got from Vegas. Tall hills of rock and windy roads for nearly as far as we could see. I saw mountains nearly like this on my trek from CT to Seattle, but nothing nearly as rocky and less vegetaion. Donna and I had our heads to the window for the whole drive, just looking for various stuff out in the distance. As we neared Kaibab Lodge, a bit north of the Grand Canyon, we realized it was too dark to actually see the canyon that night and opted to get our room, get some food at their dining area and make drinks and play Scrabble. And look at some stars. We walked around the area, which was this open field full of mule deer and lined by birch trees farther out on both sides of the road. It was nuts. Just before entering the lodge area, and leaving (since there is only one road. that's another odd concept to grasp) we saw the remnants of a forest fire that took many miles of trees. Kind of creepy to see.

We slept that night in our awesome room, which was painted orange with cave-drawings painted on the wall in the style i would do back in 3rd grade. one of the creatures looked like Phyllis Diller.



It was strange, but I took it for what it was. We tried to get some breakfast, but took too long getting ready. Many of the lodge areas do meals from designated times, and stop for a few hours in between. It was past 9, and past the time we could get something to eat, so we just headed to the North Rim and opted for their deli. Which we ate at the picture I tweeted. And my god, the Grand Canyon is huge. I wonder what the view is from the south rim. there was actually a forest fire near where the south rim was, and we could see it on our hikes to the viewing areas. The people there told us it was a controlled fire, but it was still eerie to see.



After eating and looking around, we headed out for Escalante. The crazy thing about Arizona and southern Utah is that it's hilly/mountainy all over. Not high mountains like here (i think) because they all seem scalable and close, but also huge. But every time you see a bunch of mountains that are one color of stone and shape, you get near them, and pass it to see another set completely different in landscape, shape, and color. Every time a corner turned, we saw something different. On the way in, we saw glimpses of Red Canyon and Bryce Canyon, as well as the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (which is what Allysia works on). We got to her house, after passing her "driveway" 3 times to find it. It's a dirt road right after the speed limit and caution sign, and you can't see her house from the road. it's up this crazy, winding hill that pick up trucks were made for. And horror movies. We got to the top, and all the while her acres of yard are peppered with boulders, desert trees (best way to decribe them) and sage brush. It felt like it was landscaped in how perfectly natural it looked. Her house, which I think Jeff posted pictures of before, was mostly complete. She is in the process of getting unpacked in it and finishing up some exterior details, but it is gorgeous and simple and open. Her bathroom is my dream come true. That night we got in, and she was having some people over for a small dinner gathering, so we got to sit back, watch them cook up some coconut curry soup and pad thai, and chat and drink. Another Jeff was there (of course) who was attractive with some crazy blue eyes. And we met some of Allysia's friends from in town, including a couple who had moved out there from Portland. The meal was so yummy and nice after the day of driving. The three of us opted to sleep in Allysia's Airstream trailer, which my tweet doesn't do it justice. It was cozy and comfy. And though the air is dry, I slept pretty well.

Imma stop there. this is longer than i thought it was. more to come.

The air is very dry in Escalante. And cold at night. We kept some windows open in the Airstream the first night, but froze most of our butts off in that thing. But the best part was trying to pee in the middle of the night. You'd wake up, pitch-black, and stumble to the door to open it up. The first night or two, Jeff and I would hike out of the trailer and find a tree to pee at (a benefit of a natural yard). But by night 3, I was just standing on the first ledge of the door and doing my business there buck-nekkid. It was too dark for Donna to see what was going on, and I had it mastered by that point.

Anyway, on Monday, we woke up, did some breakfast, and Jeff and I took Allysia's dogs, Jake and Lizzy, for a walk. We trekked down her driveway, across the street, and into the the huge runoff ditch//stream. You have to maneuver down the side of the sandy ledge to get down, and we'd use the dogs as guidance to find the best path. Inside the channel (I'd guess it could be called) we walked to the right and followed the little stream that bubbled along. Lizzy has a penchant for grabbing anything throwable and dropping it at your feet, hoping you'll pick it up and toss it. Jake has a penchant for watching this, and when the item is thrown, running after it before Lizzy, grabbing it, and taunting her with it. And this cycle continues indefinitely if you let it. After awhile, you just have to say no.

Inside this chanenl we're walking in (which would fill up more in flash floods, but was just a trickle of actual water) were more sage brushes, trees, rocks and mud. And cows. Lots of cows. They would stop ahead of you and just stare you down in a very non-calm-cow type of way. Allysia warned that if there are babies around, if you try to go near it, Momma will get pissed. And these things look like they could walk all over you without a worry. But they were cute. And numerous! Sadly not wild cows, but the ranch area they were a part of I never saw, so I don't know where they actually "live". But they like the area.

After the walk, we headed back, ate some more (non stop eating on this trip) and headed into town. We stopped by the Visitor Center where Allysia works and saw the movie about the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (GSENM), and got some information on trails and areas to go see. Then we drove further into town, on the main trip Rt. 12 shows us, and saw some of the shops and eateries Escalante has to offer. In a town of ~800 with a tourist flare, it was impressive. The main successful store-restaurant-cabin rental was the Outfitters, which everyone kept mentioning had great pizza. And you could order beer while eating, so we were all over that.

After that adventure, we went back to the house (I believe, it's foggy in my mind at this point) and hiked around Allysia's back yard. That was a limit pusher, as this is unknown hiking territory, and go at your own. We each had our limits pushed, and Jeff and I got nearly up to the top. I'll post a picture later to show the spot we got to. I was impressed, and scared as hell on how to get down. Though it was easier than I thought.

That night Jeff cooked up a yummers puttanesca. Mmm mm.

Tuesday was our hike up to Lower Calf Creek Falls with Allysia (who cut out of work. Sh!). This was a 6.2 mile round-trip. The falls (from my tweet) is the half way point, and you turn around and head back. This was in another chasm-y area where the hike was fucking gorgeous. That's the best way to describe it. Not too strenuous either, for it's length, just walking through some sandy parts because of it's usage. When we got to the falls, I quickly took off my boots and socks and put my feet in the water. I felt like it was a magical fountain with healing qualities, but really it was just pretty, and cold as hell. And then on my walk back to my boots, I stubbed my toe on a rock and it started bleeding. Of course. But luckily, Allysia came prepared. It was a beautiful trip and the beginning of our hiking wonders. Holy cow. In getting back to the start, there is a creek you can walk through to get to where the cars were. Allysia first asked me to do it, but i declined, and we waited for Jeff and Donna to catch up (after they got a little lost). They were game, but opted out once they felt the coldness of the water. And then I decided to do it. Of course, with my phone in my pocket (which is the second time i've risked that thing). We walked barefoot down this creek for probably 500 feet or so, and it was just beautiful. My feet adjusted to the temperature, and we meandered around the winding ways of the water until we were near the car. I loved it.

That night, Allysia's neighbor, Sandy, came over with 2 of his friends from CA, Rob and Paula. Sandy lives across the street (to call him a neighbor is relative, considering the space between). Jeffery made some stuffed peppers (the cover picture of one of his vegetarian cook books)on top of polenta with cheese, a salad, some cooked chard, and that mm mmm yummers. Sandy enjoyed it so much he offered to make us dinner on Thursday night to watch the VP debate.

More sleeping and peeing that night, and then Wesnedsay came around. After the morning walk with Donna and the dogs, we met up with Allysia, Sandy, Rob and Paula and headed to Willis Creek, one of the Slot Canyons of the area (and this one is considered not very slottish comparatively, apparently). A 3.5 mile hike round-trip, we drove to a nearby town (read: 20 minute drive and 20+ miles), and then took a turn onto a dirt road that continually rose upward. My vertigo was challenged at one point by the drop off right outside my window. Man that stuff gets narrow. We reached the starting point of the slot canyon, and just started walking in it. Again the pictures show a little of what it's like, but it's crazy-nuts to see huge rock walls so close together. If there is a flash flood, you have to get out of there ASAP, as you can get swept away. The path went through about 3 areas of narrow slot canyons before opening up into a much bigger canyon. The walls were nuts to see, in all the cross-sections from the water and wind of the thousands of years this stuff has been carved. And there was lots of horse poop. I can't imagine riding a horse in there. At one point Rob found a rock that had hollowed and crystallized inside, and wanted to bring it out, but Allysia wasn't having that. A girl's gotta protect her land!

Upon coming out of the canyons, on the drive down the sun was setting, and Allysia mentioned a stopping point that is great to watch the sunset. We arrived, and sat our butts down just in time to see the sun set. Then it was back to home. We did a quick dinner of lentil soup and salad. mmmmm. Then back to sleep.

Thursday, we set out to hike Red Canyon and Bryce Canyon, which were about an hour away from Allysia's house. We got up early and headed out around 8 a.m. to get some breakfast on the way. Allysia's recommended a place called "Bryce Canyon Pines", famous for their pies.



We found the place on the open road of route 12, and stopped in. It may have been the best dining experience i've had in quite some time. The intial drink server was at our table in less than a minute. The cute-ish waiter was prompt and to the point in taking our order. Our food (various egg and side-of-meat preperations) came out quickly and was delicious. Best eggs, toast and taters i've had for breakfast anywhere. Jeff had a steak with his eggs that was fantastic. And all for about $6-$7/meal. I wanted to go again. Donna indulged and got a piece of pie for us to share. It wasn't anything to spectacular in my book...but with a breakfast like that, i didn't care. Did I mention the toast was excellent? I want to go back.

Then we headed to Red Canyon, which was about 15-20 minutes down the road. After parking, we headed to the visitor center to get an idea of what trails to hike. The helpful man told us of a 3.5 mile hike that looped around the canyon, called the Golden Trail (i believe) and on it was a fork into a greater part of the Canyon, but also more challenging hike, called something else. We opted for the challenge and set off. At first the hike began in a flat, wooded area that just seemed, well, woodsy. But the faded, small path took a sharp curve at one point and we started climbing up. The hike was intense (for us) and amazing. We ended up climbing up and down the hillside 4 times before it was all over, and each ascent and decent was done by the zig-zag method because of the hillside steepness. The rocks were incredible, and so red and fragile. And at one point it looked like it might rain or storm while we were up there, which Jeffery kept hoping for.




We actually got a little lost on the trip as well. Toward the end of our loop, the trail met up with another trail that seemed to dead-end on the map, possibly to view a peak. But the sign we ran into on the path didn't indicate the same information on our map or what the visitor center man told us. So we headed for the trail he told us and ended up on the peak instead. This peak had a trail that was very steep on either side of the narrow pathway and the wind started picking up from the clouds around us. It was a limit pusher, and I opted to go ahead, climbing a zig-zag path far up near the top to see if the path ended there as the map sort of showed, or continued on the other side of the peak. It seems simple in typing it, and probably was, but it was one of the limit-pushers for me, considering my fears of coming back down, and accidentally slipping and sliding the whole side of this hill (since I am a klutz). It turned out fine, though I got to the peak, saw it didn't conintue due to the "trail end" sign up there, and turned around and headed back down instead of staying up there to see the view. Next time. We headed down and finished the path back at the Visitor Center, and my feet were achy by this point. We packed up and headed to Bryce Canyon.

Our first stop was at the Bryce Canyon lodge for some lunch. This time we just made it in to the lunch time window, and were able to be served (the time restrictions are a bit nutty in my mind). When the waiter came to take orders, and saw my indecision about ordering a veggie burger with Asian flare, he offered us the taco bar for free, since it was near time for them to dismantle it. Jeff and I jumped at the opportunity, and Donna had a Caesar salad.

After filling up, and noticing the weather getting colder, we headed out to Bryce Canyon to take a look. And I have to say, the weather treated us excellently this day. It was overcast but sunny in spots for both these hikes, allowing us to be comfortable and not beat down by the sun. We walked around the rim of Bryce Canyon for a half hour, at both the Sunrise and Sunset points, and contemplated hiking in. I was hesitant for my sore feet, and Donna was hesitant on the steep incline and decline. But then, near Sunset peak, there is a zig-zag decent into a slottish canyon area of Bryce that I couldn't pass up. So we headed down, along with everyone else there and all their perfumes. It was gorgeous, and hillarious trying to block out people walking by so Jeff could pee. The hike was about 1.5 miles, and though the ascent was steep and full of rest stops for us, it was beautiful. Right when we got back to the top, the sun shown through for the sunset and illuminated the peaks of the canyon. It felt perfect. We made one more rest stop, and hauled butt back to Allysia's. Then we fixed ourselves up, and headed to Sandy's for the dinner he was preparing for us and to watch the VP debate.

Sandy's place is adorable, full of his art and cozy-feeling home without it feeling too small or overdone. I loved it, especially his red-stained sink and tub from the iron in the well water they have. No iron deficiencies here! He made a zucchini casserole, and some chicken stir-fry, but fell prey to the Pyrex-glass-on-the-hot-coil-stove issue and it exploded in the kitchen. So we had some casserole, rice, bread and pie. And it was perfect and delicious. The debate was eh. I wanted to not get frustrated with it after the natural high of the day. We discussed it all for a little bit, then headed home to get some sleep and prepare for our exit on Friday morning.

Originally we planned to spend Friday night in Vegas so it would be easy to fly out on Saturday. But after the trip, none of us were feeling the Vegas vibe, so I cancelled the reservation of our South Point hotel and casino, and we opted to find something along the way.

We woke up Friday morning, and gave our goodbye's to Allysia and thanked her for hosting, and then headed to downtown Escalante one more time. Jeff took some pictures of the galleries and sale properties in the area, and we went to the Outfitters for one more lunch. Allysia saw our bright-blue PT Cruiser on the drive into town again, so she met up with us and had lunch. This time i opted for the town-famous pizza, and though the crust wasn't wonderful, the spicy nature of the cheesy and sauce was excellent, and superior to Seattle. Once again we said goodbyes, and headed out to Zion.

After a bit of a drive, we reached the limits of Zion National Park, and began the journey in. Allysia said it was her favorite Park, for it's views and sense of bigness. And Jeff mentioned a hike he and Allysia had done on one of his prior trips, so we looked for the long tunnel (om nom nom). Right where that picture was taken is the hike trail we started out on, which was 1 mile round trip. Though a little windy, and seeminly more dangerous than other hikes due to if you slipped and fell, you were a gonner, it lead to this awesome view



I loved it. We hiked back, crawled back in the car and drove the crazy road of Zion to it's visitor center and headed out. It's right by Springdale, which was a cute, yuppy-ish town with some hotel areas, but I opted for St. George, since it would have signal to check in to flights and probably cheaper hotels.

We drove the many miles to St. George and found restaurant/hotel chain heaven. Not really picturesque like the other areas. But Allysia, with her wonderful recommendations, also suggested a Thai restaurant there in the Historical district, which was really cute and a pretty decent meal. Then it was TV time in our Motel 6 until the next day.

Got up, showered, and ate breakfast at IHOP before some major crowds of St. George decended on the place. And then off to Vegas. We found the outlet mall there, and did some underwear shopping, and then headed to the Peppermill Fireside Lounge. It was cutting it close due to some traffic, but we were able to sit by the fireside lounge (picture coming soon, I can't believe I didn't tweet it) and get our drink on before heading to the airport.

Once there, we had another drink, said our goodbyes, and headed home. Relaxed, tanned a bit, and...ahhhhh :)

pt cruiser, utah, red canyon, airstream, bryce canyon, las vegas, amazing, hikes, zion, grand canyon

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