CORSET ADVICE

[ryoko_dono]

Hey ladies, I'm adding a corset into my spring collection, but I'm trying to decide how to construct it. When I took my corsetry class in london-town she had us use ridgelene folded in half as the boning, and just use steel at CB and CF. I was costing both steel and the plastic out online, and they seem to be about the same cost, which do you kids

Comments

[hailo]

I usually do a muslin but I never leave 2in on the back.

I also always use spiral steel in a corset and I get it locally in the city. Erica I know buys a roll and cuts and caps the pieces together. I would go with what you are more comfortable with since it won't need to act like a real corset since models are tiny.

[ryoko_dono]

The 2" fitting seam was somewhere in the side front.

We fit our stuff on other students and I tend to pick larger than stick girls that are still close to the form. I picked a fairly large girl for this (cause her face was too perfect) cause I figure it'll look hotter in the corset than a stick figure. So some shape would be good, but shes no larger than me and the plastic held me in fine.

[kairi_g]

I would go with Steel for an actual corset, I almost never use steel in gowns anymore but always in corsets. In our corsetry class we fit them on the form and then again on a person to get the back shape/placement of grommets. I dont think you really need to worry too much about it tho, just make it fit the form really tight! :P

I get rolls of spiral steel from Greenberg and Hammer. The roll is the best deal, its 17yds for $10!!!! Or at least it was the last time I ordered. You can order from them or the next time you are in the city we can go! :D They also have coutil, busks, interfacings, laces, etc... its a great store.

Also if you dont feel like putting caps on the ends I often just use masking tape, just wrap it around a couple times :P

[ryoko_dono]

Theres a corsetry store in philly that also sells stuff online, so I was thinking of stopping by there. I doubt I'll be up to NYC anytime soon, but tims trying to convince me to come up there for easter, so we'll see.

I'm slightly nervous about the spiral steel just because I've never worked with it before. Do you use it for CF and CB too? My prof (granted she was a costumes lady) had told us that plain steel strips were best for those.

[kairi_g]

Ah yea I forgot about that store, Ive ordered from them in the past too, before I knew about G & H. Spiral Steel is easy, I use it for all of the boning usually, sometimes my CB is shaped so I need it. CF, if there isnt a busk you could put a regular steel stay, but I never do, I just use Spiral. I think that if you have enough interfacing and your boning channels are tight enough you wont have any problems with spiral in CF.

[ryoko_dono]

If/when you do a corset muslin, do you but boning in it? My prof had just had us construct it pretty much all the way, slide the bones in, and then left a seam near side/center front with 2" sa to fit. I'm just having a mental block today.

[jpnadia]

Well, the sum of the forces has to equal zero, but if you assume that the joints are connected by pins, you know that the sum of each x- and y- components of the force in any one joint have to be zero, so you can simplify the resulting calculations and neglect moment. Once you've calculated the forces in each member and identified each as either tension or compression, you can compare your results to the technical specifications of your chosen material.

...what? I'm an engineer.

[ryoko_dono]

L