It kind of feels like the main function of this volume is to move all the pieces into place for the climax. (But I do love the climax itself! Coming up, volumes 31 and 32.)
Volume 30
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Wiper doesn't like people using his name lightly. (Enel keeps mockingly calling him "Warrior Wiper.")
Enel smashes Wiper's skates so that he can't use the kairouseki in them. (Ah, so it was the skates.)
Enel is impressed that Wiper is still standing after two uses of the Reject Dial; an ordinary person would have been dead after one.
One of Enel's drums turns into lightning. (OK, I did not notice that those were drums. And I don't know if I'm more amused or annoyed that Viz felt the need to translate taiko ("drum") as "taiko drum." On the one hand, bonus points for cultural awareness; on the other hand… ATM machine! PIN number!)
Enel strikes both Wiper and Zoro with lighting in the form of (mythical?) animals. (Hino, a bird, and kiten, a wolf-like animal - see end note.)
Wiper is still standing ("For my ancestors!").
Flashback to the village elder telling Wiper that there is one more reason why the great warrior Calgara wanted so desperately to win back their homeland - maybe the most important reason.
(Oh great, and I'm crying already.)
Back in the present, Wiper gazes calmly at the pillar of light representing the "judgment of God" as it falls on him.
Realizing that she's the only one left, Nami asks Enel to take her with him.
(Clever Nami! She's buying time, if nothing else.)
Back on Angel Island, the White Berets are proclaiming sentence on Pagaya, Conis and Gan Fall, declaring them all traitors and heretics.
Conis is headed for the shore on her waver.
Enel is baffled by Nami's insistence on bringing her waver, but he says he doesn't care.
Nami gets her first look at the ark "Maxim," powered by lightning (using gold conductors - that's why Enel wanted the gold). It has the power to fly.
(DAMN, that thing is fugly.)
Back in Shandora, Luffy is making the snake's life miserable looking for a way out. (Poor snake! I think it's unconscious. I hope.) Luffy, Aisa and Pierre finally escape from the snake's mouth.
Aisa realizes she's standing in the ancient city of her ancestors. (I like the wonder in her face when she realizes the "ground is made of stone.")
Luffy runs on ahead (hee, why does Pierre run instead of flying after him?).
Luffy discovers the unconscious bodies of Zoro, Robin, Chopper and Gan Fall; Aisa finds what's left of Wiper.
Aisa mentions that she wasn't able to use her mantra while they were inside the snake (why?), so she had no idea what was happening.
Robin, barely conscious, tells Luffy that Nami went with Enel, and that all of Skypiea is about to be destroyed.
(Aw, Pierre hovering tearfully over Gan Fall's body.)
Robin is sure that Enel is headed for the location of the golden bell, but she's not sure where it is. Aisa says she can lead Luffy there by following the two "voices" that remain on the island.
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Enel can sense that Conis is causing a disturbance on Angel Island.
Nami asks if they can always distinguish the identities of individual people by their mantra, but Enel says his mantra is special. Being made of electricity, he can detect radio waves (電波) and pick up conversations. In effect, he can hear everything that is said on the island. (Does electromagnetism even work like that? Oh, whatever.)
He is merely amused by the futile attempts of the people of Skypiea to escape their fate.
Enel picks up a life-sign he doesn't recognize.
Conis lands on Angel Island. (LOL, can neither she nor her father dismount from a waver without taking a running leap and leaving the waver to crash on its own? Surely that's not the approved procedure? )
Conis defies the White Berets in order to deliver the heavenly warrior's final message. She tells the people to get themselves to Cloud's End in the White Sea and flee to the Blue Sea realm before Skypiea is destroyed.
When no one believes her, she deliberately blasphemes Enel to prove that judgment won't come, because Enel no longer cares about them -- they're already doomed.
Some of the people are still hoping for a miracle, but she tells them that if they don't act to save themselves, they're dead. They can no longer afford to be passive victims; they have to take responsibility for their own survival.
Aisa leads Luffy up through a hole in the clouds, higher up the beanstalk.
Left behind, Robin tries to summon the last of her strength to move the others to safety (or at least, higher "ground").
On his ark, Enel is peeved about the fact that someone other than the five people he predicted survived (because it made a lie of his original prediction).
Luffy confronts Enel. "What have you done to my nakama?"
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On Angel Island, McKinley takes responsibility for rescuing the surviving heavenly warriors (though in truth, he knows it's probably too late) and getting the inhabitants of Skypiea to safety.
He remarks that when Enel left his home island of Birqa (Bilka?) to attack Skypiea, he destroyed everything and everyone in order to burn his bridges. Now he's doing the same thing again.
Conis leaves to help "some friends" who won't know how to escape without her. McKinley knows she's going to help the Blue Sea people, but doesn't interfere.
Enel recognizes Luffy as a Paramecia devil fruit user, but thinks a Paramecia will be no match for his power.
He is more stunned than anyone when it turns out lightning doesn't work on Luffy (because he's made of rubber).
LOL, Enel's stunned face, BEST THING EVER. IN YOUR *FACE*, BORING WANNABE GOD.
Luffy can punch Enel, too.
(Is this because rubber is the antithesis of electricity, as water is anathema to Crocodile, and Ace's fire trumps Smoker's smoke? I mean, I get why electricity doesn't shock Luffy, but it's less clear to me why Enel can't dissolve and reform in order to avoid his punches. But it does become apparent over time that one of the few weaknesses of the Logia user is encountering an element to which their element is vulnerable, e.g. as sand is vulnerable to water.)
Nami realizes that Luffy, the rubber man, is Enel's sole "natural enemy."
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When Enel is confused by Luffy's declaration that he is a rubber man, Nami realizes that Enel has no idea what rubber is because it doesn't exist in the sky.
Note Enel's comment that Paramecia devil fruit users basically retain their original form -- this is the essential distinction between a Paramecia and a Logia. (Also, the SBS at the end of this chapter breaking down the three types of Devil Fruit, possibly the most useful SBS ever. It's amazing how Oda can use the SBS corners to go from totally silly fribble to momentous world-building revelation in the blink of an eye.)
Enel boasts that he still has his mantra (which can predict Luffy's moves), and he has ways of fighting that don't depend on electric shock. For instance, Luffy is vulnerable to heat, and to being stabbed or slashed.
Enel's attack by moving (in electrical form) through the gold is actually kind of cool (and creepy).
In the midst of their fighting, Enel begins the process to launch the sky ark Maxim into the air.
Aisa calls Pierre tori-uma-chan, LOL forever. ("Bird-horse-chan.")
Nami starts to freak out, but Luffy tells her to quit sniveling. She's a comrade of the future pirate king!
(I kind of love Luffy here. He won't tolerate his crew being anything less than the best they can be.)
When Enel asks what the heck a pirate king is king OF, Luffy says "King of the Grand Line!"
(Japanese: 世界の偉大な海の王, sekai no idai na umi no ou, "King of the Grand Seas of the World"; the actual kanji underlying the word usually glossed in katakana as "Grand Line" are 偉大なる航路, idai naru kouro, "grand sea-route." I kind of like Viz' "King of the Majestic Oceans of the World," which is both literal and cool-sounding, but it's too bad that it doesn't convey the verbal echo of "grand" (idai) that both phrases share.)
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The ark begins moving slowly forward, crushing the forest beneath it.
(Hey, don't scare the dancing wolves!)
Aw, Aisa tells Pierre to follow but not interfere, because Luffy is a Blue Sea Warrior, and you never interfere with another warrior's fight. Luffy said that when Sanji wanted to interfere in Zoro's fight with Mihawk, way back when.)
The ark begins spewing black smoke. Enel calls it his ultimate technique, "Deathpia."
The black cloud will eventually form into an enormous thundercloud generating enough lightning to destroy all of Skypiea.
Scattered lightning-bolts begin falling on Angel Island, terrifying the fleeing Skypieans.
Conis is on her way back to the Strawhats' ship.
Luffy tries various techniques to circumvent Enel's mantra. His "spaced-out" technique doesn't work so well, but the "ricochet" technique does.
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Enel is down, but not out.
The ark finally frees itself from the grip of Upper Yard and begins to take off.
On Angel Island, the fleeing Skypieans are terrified by the sight of the ark moving through the sky.
[Fishman Island]Hmm, is it a coincidence that this isn't the last "ark" we'll see?
The Shandians of the hidden cloud village decide that it's time for them to flee, as well.
Enel traps Luffy's arm in a golden ball, and tosses him overboard.
Aisa and Pierre go after him. (Enel: "Oh, so that's the whisper-whisper I was hearing.")
Conis returns to the Merry, determined to wait there until all the Strawhats return so that she can escort them to Cloud's End.
Back on the ark, Nami tells Enel she's made up her mind - a future without her comrades isn't worth having. Obtaining what she desires will be meaningless if she obtains it alone.
(I don't blame Nami for making the initial decision to follow Enel, but -- go, Nami!)
Arriving at the Merry, Conis is horrified to discover Sanji and Usopp missing, and Su can't explain what happened. (Where's Chopper when you need him?)
A rope dangles from the rising ark, with Sanji and Usopp clinging to it (or rather, Usopp IS the end of the rope -- it's attached to his belt -- and Sanji's climbing it).
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Ace as "marine in disguise." <3 (How stupid would the marines have to be to not see through that disguise?)
Flashback to Sanji and Usopp waking up on the ship. Sanji is immediately determined to rescue Nami.
He caught a glimpse of her on the ark that is passing by overhead.
(The most important thing is that she took off the t-shirt. Usopp points out that that's the LEAST relevant point right now.)
End flashback, with Sanji determinedly making his way up the rope to save Nami.
On the ark, Enel asks Nami if she's pinning her hopes on the two "little mice" that are making their way toward her. (Nami didn't realize that anyone was coming.)
LOL Usopp's octopus foot clamps, have we seen those before? Awesome!
Once on board the ship, they split up so that Enel won't kill them both at once.
Usopp: You mean one of us is gonna die!? Don't tell me… for Nami, you'd actually… Sanji: Listen, Usopp. If it's for Nami's sake… I don't mind if you die. Usopp: I'M GONNA SLAP YOU SILLY!
Sanji runs off, leaving Usopp to make his way to the deck of the ship separately.
Enel is threatening to kill Nami before her rescuers can show up.
Robin is using her devil fruit ability to move the bodies of the others up the beanstalk to higher ground.
On board the Merry, Conis is waiting, praying for the safe return of the others.
Luffy picks himself up from where he fell and prepares to climb back up the beanstalk to fight Enel (kintama and all).
(Aisa hates when he calls it a kintama (golden ball) - I gather the reference is obscene.)
Nami is using her knowledge of climate techniques to ward off Enel's lightning attacks and stay alive, but she's at her limit.
Usopp arrives just in time to save her.
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Usopp is utterly horrified to realize that he got there ahead of Sanji.
Usopp and Nami run around frantically trying not to get killed.
Nami proposes escaping on the waver (if they time their fall correctly, they'll land on the cloud-fields below).
Usopp's deadliest technique (describing horrible things like a splinter under one's fingernail) has no effect on Enel, although it almost takes Nami out. ("Cover your ears! Do you wanna die?")
Sanji arrives just in time to kick Usopp onto Nami's waver.
Usopp insists they flee, leaving Sanji to fight Enel, since that's what Sanji wants. ("Do you intend to trample on a man's resolve??" Aw, Usopp!)
Hit by lightning, Sanji collapses, but not before Enel realizes that he did something to sabotage the ship.
(Love him "thanking" Enel for giving him a light for his cigarette after Enel electrocutes him.)
Usopp manages to crawl back over the edge (Nami and the waver fell to safety, but he hooked a line onto the ship as he was falling).
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Cover arc: Ace at an all-you-can-eat buffet. The mind boggles.
Usopp and Sanji fall to the clouds below, next to where Nami landed.
(LOL, what does Usopp have on his feet now? That helped him to escape, how? Or were they supposed to catch him when he landed - if he hadn't landed upside down?)
Nami points out the giant beanstalk. They've landed on the island-clouds at the foot of the beanstalk. Zoro and the others should be at the foot of the beanstalk below, down where the underground ruins were buried in the cloud.
Down in the ruins, Luffy is having a hard time controlling his movements with the golden ball dragging him down (he keeps rolling into the ruins and breaking things, to Aisa's fury).
Luffy runs into Robin (who climbed up to the surface with Zoro and the others) and leaves Aisa and Pierre with her. He climbs up the stalk after Enel (thinking Nami is still with him).
(Poor Aisa is totally freaked out by Robin's devil fruit ability. I love how she's still screaming in the background several panels later.)
Nami, Usopp and Sanji catch up with Robin. (Hee, Robin calls Usopp "Long-nose-kun" and Sanji "Cook-san.")
Usopp discovers the burned bodies of the others. "Damnit! If only I (oresama) had been there…"
Nami tells the others to go on ahead to the Merry; she'll take the waver and catch up with Luffy.
The holocaust of lightning-bolts (Mamaragan) begins to fall on Skypiea.
***
I was baffled by the names of several of Enel's attacks, but they are explained in an SBS in Volume 33. Copy-pasting here, to save scrolling all the way down the page of the wiki:
"El Thor" → Thor → God of War and Lightning in Norse mythology. "Hino" → Hino → Giant Lightning Bird of the Iroquois natives of North America. "Kiten" → Kiten → Japanese lightning beast. "Julungul" → Jagtjadbulla → One of the Lightning Brothers in Arnhem Land (N. Australia) rock art "Mamaragan" → Mamaragan → Lightning God of Central Australia "Amal" → Amaru → A play on "amoru/amakudaru", which means "to descend from heaven". Japanese lightning-fall "Kari" → Kari → Lightning God of Malay pygmy tribes