Kyoto: Day 2
We rented bikes again, and set out for Kinkaku-ji, the “golden temple.” On the way, we were distracted by another large temple, To-ji, so we parked our bikes to walk around for a few minutes. Mike realized that he left something at the hostel, so I had a while to myself there.
I wandered around, found myself in an area of the temple with many shrines. There were people coming in and out to pray and bow to the shrines; I felt out of place and conspicuous. Again, no one but me seemed uncomfortable with my presence there. I looked up every once in a while to observe the apparent ritual: drop money in a box next to the shrine, ring the shrine’s bell. Some people would light incense, other did not. Then deep bowing, and sometimes clapping. It was particularly puzzling (only because it is new to me) to see people bowing to shrines with no statues of Buddha or a bodhisattva- sometimes there would only be a banner with writing on it that they bowed to, or a rock with cloth tied around it. There is so much I don’t understand. One woman I watched more than the others- she visited a shrine with a statue of a turtle. The turtle had a huge monolith on its back, with writing on it. After the woman bowed to the turtle, she put her hands on its shell and walked around and around it, rubbing the shell. It reminded me of the statue of St. Peter at the basilica in Vatican City, has anyone else seen it? His foot is worn smooth by all the pilgrims who come and rub it.
View of To-ji from Kyoto street (old and new right next to each other):
When Mike came back, we biked to Kinkaku-ji. This temple, plated all over with gold leaf, was by far the most ostentatious! But very beautiful.
Pictures of Kinkaku-ji:
Then to Ryoan-ji, famous for its rock garden. We sat a while and enjoyed it. I wondered aloud how often the sand has to be raked so meticulously- perhaps every day? Only when it rains?
Rock garden at Ryoan-ji:
Temple building at Ryoan-ji:
The last temple we visited on the second day was Daitoku-ji. We got a little confused, since Daitoku-ji seemed to be the biggest of all the temples we’d seen, spanning many blocks. We weren’t sure where to go. We ended up wandering around and entering several gardens and temple buildings. One building at Daitoku-ji was my favorite to explore, I think it was where the abbot lived, perhaps. They had posted explanations of what each of the rooms was for- here is where his visitors waited to be received, here is where he discussed Zen truths with visitors, here is where he slept.
Mike and rock garden at Daitoku-ji:
Temple building at Daitoku-ji:
After riding our bikes around all day (quite the trek across Kyoto), we decided to visit an “onsen,” a Japanese public bath. I went to the women’s side, and immediately felt like an outsider among all the Japanese middle-aged ladies in the locker room. They were so gracious, though! It was a relief. I showered before entering any baths (a huge faux pas to jump straight in), and enjoyed them all. My favorite: the outdoor baths. I was moved by so many middle-aged woman there with their elderly mothers, helping them to shower and to get into each bath.
I met Mike back in the lobby and we enjoyed a cup of matcha (green tea) before biking back to the hostel.
I wandered around, found myself in an area of the temple with many shrines. There were people coming in and out to pray and bow to the shrines; I felt out of place and conspicuous. Again, no one but me seemed uncomfortable with my presence there. I looked up every once in a while to observe the apparent ritual: drop money in a box next to the shrine, ring the shrine’s bell. Some people would light incense, other did not. Then deep bowing, and sometimes clapping. It was particularly puzzling (only because it is new to me) to see people bowing to shrines with no statues of Buddha or a bodhisattva- sometimes there would only be a banner with writing on it that they bowed to, or a rock with cloth tied around it. There is so much I don’t understand. One woman I watched more than the others- she visited a shrine with a statue of a turtle. The turtle had a huge monolith on its back, with writing on it. After the woman bowed to the turtle, she put her hands on its shell and walked around and around it, rubbing the shell. It reminded me of the statue of St. Peter at the basilica in Vatican City, has anyone else seen it? His foot is worn smooth by all the pilgrims who come and rub it.
View of To-ji from Kyoto street (old and new right next to each other):
When Mike came back, we biked to Kinkaku-ji. This temple, plated all over with gold leaf, was by far the most ostentatious! But very beautiful.
Pictures of Kinkaku-ji:
Then to Ryoan-ji, famous for its rock garden. We sat a while and enjoyed it. I wondered aloud how often the sand has to be raked so meticulously- perhaps every day? Only when it rains?
Rock garden at Ryoan-ji:
Temple building at Ryoan-ji:
The last temple we visited on the second day was Daitoku-ji. We got a little confused, since Daitoku-ji seemed to be the biggest of all the temples we’d seen, spanning many blocks. We weren’t sure where to go. We ended up wandering around and entering several gardens and temple buildings. One building at Daitoku-ji was my favorite to explore, I think it was where the abbot lived, perhaps. They had posted explanations of what each of the rooms was for- here is where his visitors waited to be received, here is where he discussed Zen truths with visitors, here is where he slept.
Mike and rock garden at Daitoku-ji:
Temple building at Daitoku-ji:
After riding our bikes around all day (quite the trek across Kyoto), we decided to visit an “onsen,” a Japanese public bath. I went to the women’s side, and immediately felt like an outsider among all the Japanese middle-aged ladies in the locker room. They were so gracious, though! It was a relief. I showered before entering any baths (a huge faux pas to jump straight in), and enjoyed them all. My favorite: the outdoor baths. I was moved by so many middle-aged woman there with their elderly mothers, helping them to shower and to get into each bath.
I met Mike back in the lobby and we enjoyed a cup of matcha (green tea) before biking back to the hostel.