ok today was even crazyer that yesterday at the beach.i swear to god!!it was seriously 11foot swells.any way i was out there with two of my friends.we were sitting out the waiting for some waves.and they got like five footers.i was out there no waves for like 10 minuts!i was so angry!but then a gnarley wave came 11 FOOTER!!!i was like i didnt wait
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love you!
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