B&T Workshop--Waistcoat

Oct 03, 2011 08:23


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virginiadear October 3 2011, 13:36:51 UTC
Even today, the very finest "bespoke" suits are not just hand-tailored and custom-fitted, but hand-stitched or -sewn. And it does make a world of difference in the finished appearance of the garments comprising that suit of clothes, as well as how they sit on or hang from the body.

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viennabelle October 4 2011, 12:48:10 UTC
I would imagine so--I think it's the attention to fitting that helps the most. The hand sewing (I think) is mostly to accomplish stitches that aren't possible by machine. There are a lot of tiny stitches to attach lining and layering thingies that don't go through to the front of the garment. I don't think a machine could do that. And now, tailoring I think is about the same process. I am getting to like it more and more...

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virginiadear October 4 2011, 14:05:09 UTC
The attention to fit in modern tailoring, or in the 18th century pieces you're doing?
In modern tailoring there is a lot of hand-stitching, even if the joining of the various pieces of the garment is accomplished by machine. The pad-stitching which creates and holds the roll of the lapel and the back of the collar, for instance, must be done by hand and the thread gets carried to the outside of the fashion fabric (with those stitches showing on the outside being only a thread's thickness in length!), but on what becomes the underside of that feature due to the roll or the folding back of the piece. In other words, there, but not noticeable.
And of course there is a lot of structure built into modern suit coats which isn't intended to be seen in any way other than the effect created by those structuring techniques, which do affect how well the suit coa fits ( ... )

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viennabelle October 5 2011, 12:27:51 UTC
I meant that the way it was sewn couldn't have possibly been done by machine (on the 18th century garments) and that I think this is the root of modern tailoring. It is so cool, all the details and how they make things look better...

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viennabelle October 5 2011, 12:29:13 UTC
It was great. Next one is on tailoring details. Honestly, until I took these classes, tailoring never appealed. Now I'm quite converted!

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