icon making guide
Program(s): PSP, PS, Gimp. Could apply to all as this is a general guide.
Involves: Tips and pointers for icon making.
Translatable: Yes.
Steps: None, it's just a guide.
Difficulty: Easy. Mostly for those just starting out with graphics and/or iconmaking.
I get a lot of questions about my cropping and coloring, so I figured it would be helpful and/or useful (hopefully!) to pass along some of the things I've learned along the way. Now, in no way am I the authority on the ins and outs of icon making or Photoshop, but I hope someone will benefit from what I've learned and I'm all about the sharing. This is more of an essay than a tutorial, I guess. Basically, I'll just go into what I do specifically when I make an icon -- from the base to the final product providing images for reference along the way. This isn't a tutorial where I give you numbers and steps to follow, it's merely a guideline if you will.
Onto the tutorial...
Your base image is probably the most important part of icon making. Crappy pictures/screencaps does not a good icon make -- plain and simple. Finding a good HQ image or the equivalent in a screencap is imperative to the process and your icons will benefit largely in the long run for it. For screencaps/photos, I like the image to be a good size (preferably 600 pixels or larger), so I have a good amount of space to work with.
Preparing the Base
When I open my image in Photoshop there are always a couple things I do first: Sharpen, Resize and Crop. If any color corrections or necessary adjustments to the image are needed I will do that at this step as well.
In Photoshop I will usually implement the Auto functions -- i.e. Auto Levels, Auto Color or Auto Contrast. Usually this depends on the picture. If I have a fairly decent, well-lit image with no color and/or quality issues I will usually go straight to resizing and cropping. However, I do not do any major coloring or effects until the image is at its 100x100 size, so in case I screw up I can go back and fix things without having to start over.
Sharpening
The sharpening tool is one I use the least in Photoshop. I hate over-sharpened icons. Sometimes even sharpening once can be detrimental to the overall quality of your icon. But lately, I've learned that sharpening can actually be beneficial -- when used in moderation. I've learned that sharpening your image before you resize can actually produce good crisp results without running the risk of having that over-sharpened look. So, when I do sharpen, I always do it when my image is at it's largest state. If the image needs it, I may sharpen once or twice more (fading the sharpen as needed of course) as I resize the image down. I find that this method can really give you more control over how crisp you want the image to be.
>>>> you can see a visual example of what I just explained here
The picture of Pam was pretty well-defined to begin with, so I only sharpened twice. Once when the picture was largest (1024x576), and once when I resized to 500 pixels. I resized again to 250 pixels and then cropped. Notice very little pixelation in the final product. That's what you want. I notice even if you don't sharpen there's always going to be some pixelation. Normally, I will just use my blur tool with settings anywhere from 5-10 at a lowered opacity to fix that.
Resize
At this point in the process, I'm thinking about where I want to go with this particular icon - the cropping, e.t.c. For me, how I resize depends greatly on the picture and what I have in mind for the final product. Sometimes, I will resize to 500 pixels if I want add space to the image (something we'll get to later) or to get a really good distance crop (something we'll also go into later). Other times, I will resize to 300-350 pixels, copy the image and paste it into new a 100x100 square for 'cropping'. This is where you have to mess around a little. I call it the fuck-around-until-you-get-something-you-like step, LOL. This step is different for me every time. But everyone has their own method, right? :) This is mine, LOL. The only thing I won't do is resize to 100x100 right away. I always resize gradually (1024x576 pixels to 500 to 250 and then crop or 1024x576 pixels to 350, paste onto 100x100 square, crop). Basically, find whatever works for you and go with it. :)
Cropping
The final step I use when preparing my base.
Cropping is the most (THE MOST) important step when creating icons. It can really make or break an icon (after coloring of course), in my opinion. A good crop that catches the eye right away is really what you strive for. Over the last year or so in my icon-making, I've really tried to challenge myself with cropping. I'm not the best, but I think I can hold my own with a good crop. Here, I'll go into the methods I typically use for cropping.
The Dramatic Crop
Basically, a dramatic crop is when an image is cropped enough to know what the subject is, but leaves enough out so you can imagine the rest. Below I will show you the difference with obvious crops and dramatic crops.
>>>> an obvious crop of Pam Beesly
I'm not a very good dramatic cropper, but these are examples of crops I will often use:
>>>> a dramatic crop of Pam
>>>> another dramatic crop of Pam
The point here is to leave something to the imagination, but not to crop so obscurely that you can't figure out what the icon is supposed to be of.
The Center Crop
I know a huge pet peeve of the icon community is the center crop. But, if done right, the center crop can look really cool and unique. It's a method I've really started picking up on and really enjoy. I used a lot of center crops on my latest batch of Pam Beesly icons. You can also find excellent examples of GOOD center cropping at gosh_darn_icons, the icon journal of daynawashere. She pulls off the center crop so well, probably one of the best examples I've seen from an iconmaker. So, center cropping can be good. I've been using it more and more as I make icons -- thank you daynawashere for the inspiration.
Some examples of center crops:
>>>> an example of a center crop with Angela Martin ~ credit to daynawashere for the inspiration behind this type of cropping
>>>> another example with Angela that I've cropped
The key to a good center crop is SPACE. The more space you have either above your subject or around your subject, the better your center cropping will be. Using a profile or the whole body of your subject is also key. A solid background or a focal point in the background can make center cropping work too. However, center cropping can go badly if space is neglected. For example:
>>>> an example of BAD center cropping with Pam
There's really no room here to do anything. Pam's face basically takes up the whole icon, so if you wanted to add text or brushes to the image you really have nothing to work with. The kind of cropping shown in the bad example is not creative, leaves no room to work around, and just doesn't look good. In my opinion of course. :)
The Manipulated or Cheated Crop
This is my favorite kind of cropping. I use this crop when I want to add more space to an image (otherwise known as distance cropping), when it may not exist or if I want to expand on a little space and make it a LOT of space. I find that space is really important when making icons. Use of negative space can give the icon a bit of an edge. There's that space there -- limitless possibilities and tons left to the imagination. I love negative space! :) Examples of the cheated or manipulated crop:
>>>> jim and dwight with more space from this image
Basically, I've just expanded on the existing space (near the top of Jim's head) and extended it slightly using various tools in Photoshop. Some methods for expanding/extending space include the use of the brush or smudge tool and the eyedropper tool (for finding similiar color to paint or smudge with). Textures can also be useful for extending or adding space specifically for blending or giving the illusion of space. Some tutorials that may be useful in learning the manipulated or cheated crop:
>> by emmahyphenjane here @killcolor
>> here @stormfronticons
>> by crazyvictoria here at 2cl
The most important thing to remember here is that this method really only works on subjects that have neutral or solid color backgrounds. Attempting this method of cropping when you have a lot going on in the picture (say people or a lot of objects in the background) can sometimes produce an unsatisfactory result -- so stick to solid backgrounds (a wall or the sky are good examples) when attempting to crop in this manner.
More often than not, some manner of blending is going to occur whether it be with color or textures, so you have to make it look as realistic as possible without giving away the manipulated part. I hope that made sense, LOL.
The Close Crop
Close cropping is difficult to master and can be tricky. But when pulled off right, can look terrific. What I mean by close cropping is getting in the subject's face really closely or cutting off parts of the subject's face (like the eyes). For example:
>>>> an example of a close crop with Pam
>>>> more examples with Pam from my recent batch of icons this and this
I suppose this could be categorized with the dramatic crop because basically they are one and the same. Enough of the subject cut out, but enough left to the imagination. The hard part is getting the crop to look good when only a mouth is showing or the eyes have been left out a little, or you want to get a close up of a face. Another example of fuck-around-until-you-get-something-you-like, I suppose. :)
Coloring
My base has been sharpened (color or light adjusted if necessary), resized and cropped and I now have a 100x100 square that's ready for color and effects. I won't go into details about coloring because I've already gone into specifics with my coloring on previous tutorials. If you're interested in specifics with my coloring (steps and numbers)check out my tutorials TAG, those tuts go more into coloring than actual composition.
Obviously, I use tutorials for coloring. Everyone does. It's how you learn. Not step by step of course. More often than not, I will combine colorings from several different tutorials using a mixture of selective coloring, curves, color balance, hue/saturation layers and e.t.c. A lot depends on my image.
Sometimes I will use certain colorings for certain images.
The Office caps are bright and have an even balance of color to them. Skin tones tend to be a magenta-ish color, so a minimal amount of color correction is needed. For those types of caps, I will use a lot of color balance and selective coloring and maybe curves for some additional brightening of the image if needed. Screen layers are minimal, maybe one or two if necessary. I tend to not over-saturate these images with color, they have good color to start with anyway.
Buffy the Vampire Slayer caps tend to be really orange and dark (curse Joss Whedon and his over-use of the orange filter for lighting, LOL!) and need a little more tweaking than your average screencap. For those, I will use my Autos (levels, color, contrast) a lot more and a more washed out looking coloring to take out the orange. Which means little to no selective coloring and more color balance and hue/saturation, lots of curves and a good amount of screen layers.
House caps are also good to work with as they are more often than not brightly lit and well-colored -- so I use some selective color (to bring out the magentas and blues that are so prevalant in these caps), some color balance and minimal hue/saturation. A lot of reds and yellows really give House icons punch where it's needed. Screen layers are limited to one (or two if necessary).
If I'm using HQ images (such as promo photos for tv shows, or photoshoot type pictures of celebs or models) it will be more about bringing out the contrast (less screen layers, more softlight layers and a brightness/contrast layer thrown in for good measure) than anything else. And I've said it before in my tutorials I'm a contrast!whore, so there will always be a good amount of contrast in my icons, no matter what the subject is. So, if my icons tend to look a little dark and contrasty, that's the reason. :D
Other Effects: textures, brushes, e.t.c.
My coloring is complete and now I'm ready to add effects. At the moment, I'm seriously into textures. Textures of all shapes, sizes and colors. Love 'em! :) Textures are good for giving icons that extra shot of pizazz to make them more interesting and also work wonderfully as backgrounds or color enhancers. I won't go into specifics on my texture use. It's more about experimenting when it comes to textures, messing around until you get that perfect combination of whatever it is you are looking for. Sometimes experimenting can produce amazing results. Some examples with my own work:
>>>> background or pizazz example (LOL)
>>>> color enhancement example
>>>> another background example
>>>> enhancing light example
I don't use brushes that often in my icons. It's hard to find a brush that is suitable for the kind of icons I make, so I pretty much stay away from them maybe only using a tiny text brush every now and then. But, most iconmakers really make brushes work and consider them a vital part of the icon process -- to each their own, right? Basically, if brushes work for you, USE THEM. :)
Text
The very last step in my icon making process. I always add text last.
Text is my least favorite part of icon-making. Most of my icons are textless and for good reason. I SUCK AT TEXT. THE END. ;)
But, when I do use text it tends to be minimal and kinda boring, LOL. If you are interested in what fonts I use primarily in my icons, check out my FONT GUIDE. Lately, I've been using simpler fonts like arial, georgia and times new roman for my icons. Simple can be good and can really work, I like simple the most. :D
Saving the Finished Icon
And the icon is complete. Time to flatten the layers and save. In Photoshop, I always save my icons as PNG-24 in the save-for-web option. I've always done it that way. I find it the best method in preserving image quality and color. Some iconmakers save as JPEG or GIF, but I prefer PNG. You may prefer something else. Go with what works for you.
>>>> my save options
Credit where Credit is Due:
This tutorial was made possible by the following:
loleiasbits - I used her tutorial/essay as a guideline.
daynawashere at gosh_darn_icons - Her cropping skills are bad-ass, yo. Huge inspiration and duly credited. :)
_jems_ for her amazing Office screencaps that I used in this tutorial and for most of my recent Office icons. :)
Involves: Tips and pointers for icon making.
Translatable: Yes.
Steps: None, it's just a guide.
Difficulty: Easy. Mostly for those just starting out with graphics and/or iconmaking.
I get a lot of questions about my cropping and coloring, so I figured it would be helpful and/or useful (hopefully!) to pass along some of the things I've learned along the way. Now, in no way am I the authority on the ins and outs of icon making or Photoshop, but I hope someone will benefit from what I've learned and I'm all about the sharing. This is more of an essay than a tutorial, I guess. Basically, I'll just go into what I do specifically when I make an icon -- from the base to the final product providing images for reference along the way. This isn't a tutorial where I give you numbers and steps to follow, it's merely a guideline if you will.
Onto the tutorial...
Your base image is probably the most important part of icon making. Crappy pictures/screencaps does not a good icon make -- plain and simple. Finding a good HQ image or the equivalent in a screencap is imperative to the process and your icons will benefit largely in the long run for it. For screencaps/photos, I like the image to be a good size (preferably 600 pixels or larger), so I have a good amount of space to work with.
Preparing the Base
When I open my image in Photoshop there are always a couple things I do first: Sharpen, Resize and Crop. If any color corrections or necessary adjustments to the image are needed I will do that at this step as well.
In Photoshop I will usually implement the Auto functions -- i.e. Auto Levels, Auto Color or Auto Contrast. Usually this depends on the picture. If I have a fairly decent, well-lit image with no color and/or quality issues I will usually go straight to resizing and cropping. However, I do not do any major coloring or effects until the image is at its 100x100 size, so in case I screw up I can go back and fix things without having to start over.
Sharpening
The sharpening tool is one I use the least in Photoshop. I hate over-sharpened icons. Sometimes even sharpening once can be detrimental to the overall quality of your icon. But lately, I've learned that sharpening can actually be beneficial -- when used in moderation. I've learned that sharpening your image before you resize can actually produce good crisp results without running the risk of having that over-sharpened look. So, when I do sharpen, I always do it when my image is at it's largest state. If the image needs it, I may sharpen once or twice more (fading the sharpen as needed of course) as I resize the image down. I find that this method can really give you more control over how crisp you want the image to be.
>>>> you can see a visual example of what I just explained here
The picture of Pam was pretty well-defined to begin with, so I only sharpened twice. Once when the picture was largest (1024x576), and once when I resized to 500 pixels. I resized again to 250 pixels and then cropped. Notice very little pixelation in the final product. That's what you want. I notice even if you don't sharpen there's always going to be some pixelation. Normally, I will just use my blur tool with settings anywhere from 5-10 at a lowered opacity to fix that.
Resize
At this point in the process, I'm thinking about where I want to go with this particular icon - the cropping, e.t.c. For me, how I resize depends greatly on the picture and what I have in mind for the final product. Sometimes, I will resize to 500 pixels if I want add space to the image (something we'll get to later) or to get a really good distance crop (something we'll also go into later). Other times, I will resize to 300-350 pixels, copy the image and paste it into new a 100x100 square for 'cropping'. This is where you have to mess around a little. I call it the fuck-around-until-you-get-something-you-like step, LOL. This step is different for me every time. But everyone has their own method, right? :) This is mine, LOL. The only thing I won't do is resize to 100x100 right away. I always resize gradually (1024x576 pixels to 500 to 250 and then crop or 1024x576 pixels to 350, paste onto 100x100 square, crop). Basically, find whatever works for you and go with it. :)
Cropping
The final step I use when preparing my base.
Cropping is the most (THE MOST) important step when creating icons. It can really make or break an icon (after coloring of course), in my opinion. A good crop that catches the eye right away is really what you strive for. Over the last year or so in my icon-making, I've really tried to challenge myself with cropping. I'm not the best, but I think I can hold my own with a good crop. Here, I'll go into the methods I typically use for cropping.
The Dramatic Crop
Basically, a dramatic crop is when an image is cropped enough to know what the subject is, but leaves enough out so you can imagine the rest. Below I will show you the difference with obvious crops and dramatic crops.
>>>> an obvious crop of Pam Beesly
I'm not a very good dramatic cropper, but these are examples of crops I will often use:
>>>> a dramatic crop of Pam
>>>> another dramatic crop of Pam
The point here is to leave something to the imagination, but not to crop so obscurely that you can't figure out what the icon is supposed to be of.
The Center Crop
I know a huge pet peeve of the icon community is the center crop. But, if done right, the center crop can look really cool and unique. It's a method I've really started picking up on and really enjoy. I used a lot of center crops on my latest batch of Pam Beesly icons. You can also find excellent examples of GOOD center cropping at gosh_darn_icons, the icon journal of daynawashere. She pulls off the center crop so well, probably one of the best examples I've seen from an iconmaker. So, center cropping can be good. I've been using it more and more as I make icons -- thank you daynawashere for the inspiration.
Some examples of center crops:
>>>> an example of a center crop with Angela Martin ~ credit to daynawashere for the inspiration behind this type of cropping
>>>> another example with Angela that I've cropped
The key to a good center crop is SPACE. The more space you have either above your subject or around your subject, the better your center cropping will be. Using a profile or the whole body of your subject is also key. A solid background or a focal point in the background can make center cropping work too. However, center cropping can go badly if space is neglected. For example:
>>>> an example of BAD center cropping with Pam
There's really no room here to do anything. Pam's face basically takes up the whole icon, so if you wanted to add text or brushes to the image you really have nothing to work with. The kind of cropping shown in the bad example is not creative, leaves no room to work around, and just doesn't look good. In my opinion of course. :)
The Manipulated or Cheated Crop
This is my favorite kind of cropping. I use this crop when I want to add more space to an image (otherwise known as distance cropping), when it may not exist or if I want to expand on a little space and make it a LOT of space. I find that space is really important when making icons. Use of negative space can give the icon a bit of an edge. There's that space there -- limitless possibilities and tons left to the imagination. I love negative space! :) Examples of the cheated or manipulated crop:
>>>> jim and dwight with more space from this image
Basically, I've just expanded on the existing space (near the top of Jim's head) and extended it slightly using various tools in Photoshop. Some methods for expanding/extending space include the use of the brush or smudge tool and the eyedropper tool (for finding similiar color to paint or smudge with). Textures can also be useful for extending or adding space specifically for blending or giving the illusion of space. Some tutorials that may be useful in learning the manipulated or cheated crop:
>> by emmahyphenjane here @killcolor
>> here @stormfronticons
>> by crazyvictoria here at 2cl
The most important thing to remember here is that this method really only works on subjects that have neutral or solid color backgrounds. Attempting this method of cropping when you have a lot going on in the picture (say people or a lot of objects in the background) can sometimes produce an unsatisfactory result -- so stick to solid backgrounds (a wall or the sky are good examples) when attempting to crop in this manner.
More often than not, some manner of blending is going to occur whether it be with color or textures, so you have to make it look as realistic as possible without giving away the manipulated part. I hope that made sense, LOL.
The Close Crop
Close cropping is difficult to master and can be tricky. But when pulled off right, can look terrific. What I mean by close cropping is getting in the subject's face really closely or cutting off parts of the subject's face (like the eyes). For example:
>>>> an example of a close crop with Pam
>>>> more examples with Pam from my recent batch of icons this and this
I suppose this could be categorized with the dramatic crop because basically they are one and the same. Enough of the subject cut out, but enough left to the imagination. The hard part is getting the crop to look good when only a mouth is showing or the eyes have been left out a little, or you want to get a close up of a face. Another example of fuck-around-until-you-get-something-you-like, I suppose. :)
Coloring
My base has been sharpened (color or light adjusted if necessary), resized and cropped and I now have a 100x100 square that's ready for color and effects. I won't go into details about coloring because I've already gone into specifics with my coloring on previous tutorials. If you're interested in specifics with my coloring (steps and numbers)check out my tutorials TAG, those tuts go more into coloring than actual composition.
Obviously, I use tutorials for coloring. Everyone does. It's how you learn. Not step by step of course. More often than not, I will combine colorings from several different tutorials using a mixture of selective coloring, curves, color balance, hue/saturation layers and e.t.c. A lot depends on my image.
Sometimes I will use certain colorings for certain images.
The Office caps are bright and have an even balance of color to them. Skin tones tend to be a magenta-ish color, so a minimal amount of color correction is needed. For those types of caps, I will use a lot of color balance and selective coloring and maybe curves for some additional brightening of the image if needed. Screen layers are minimal, maybe one or two if necessary. I tend to not over-saturate these images with color, they have good color to start with anyway.
Buffy the Vampire Slayer caps tend to be really orange and dark (curse Joss Whedon and his over-use of the orange filter for lighting, LOL!) and need a little more tweaking than your average screencap. For those, I will use my Autos (levels, color, contrast) a lot more and a more washed out looking coloring to take out the orange. Which means little to no selective coloring and more color balance and hue/saturation, lots of curves and a good amount of screen layers.
House caps are also good to work with as they are more often than not brightly lit and well-colored -- so I use some selective color (to bring out the magentas and blues that are so prevalant in these caps), some color balance and minimal hue/saturation. A lot of reds and yellows really give House icons punch where it's needed. Screen layers are limited to one (or two if necessary).
If I'm using HQ images (such as promo photos for tv shows, or photoshoot type pictures of celebs or models) it will be more about bringing out the contrast (less screen layers, more softlight layers and a brightness/contrast layer thrown in for good measure) than anything else. And I've said it before in my tutorials I'm a contrast!whore, so there will always be a good amount of contrast in my icons, no matter what the subject is. So, if my icons tend to look a little dark and contrasty, that's the reason. :D
Other Effects: textures, brushes, e.t.c.
My coloring is complete and now I'm ready to add effects. At the moment, I'm seriously into textures. Textures of all shapes, sizes and colors. Love 'em! :) Textures are good for giving icons that extra shot of pizazz to make them more interesting and also work wonderfully as backgrounds or color enhancers. I won't go into specifics on my texture use. It's more about experimenting when it comes to textures, messing around until you get that perfect combination of whatever it is you are looking for. Sometimes experimenting can produce amazing results. Some examples with my own work:
>>>> background or pizazz example (LOL)
>>>> color enhancement example
>>>> another background example
>>>> enhancing light example
I don't use brushes that often in my icons. It's hard to find a brush that is suitable for the kind of icons I make, so I pretty much stay away from them maybe only using a tiny text brush every now and then. But, most iconmakers really make brushes work and consider them a vital part of the icon process -- to each their own, right? Basically, if brushes work for you, USE THEM. :)
Text
The very last step in my icon making process. I always add text last.
Text is my least favorite part of icon-making. Most of my icons are textless and for good reason. I SUCK AT TEXT. THE END. ;)
But, when I do use text it tends to be minimal and kinda boring, LOL. If you are interested in what fonts I use primarily in my icons, check out my FONT GUIDE. Lately, I've been using simpler fonts like arial, georgia and times new roman for my icons. Simple can be good and can really work, I like simple the most. :D
Saving the Finished Icon
And the icon is complete. Time to flatten the layers and save. In Photoshop, I always save my icons as PNG-24 in the save-for-web option. I've always done it that way. I find it the best method in preserving image quality and color. Some iconmakers save as JPEG or GIF, but I prefer PNG. You may prefer something else. Go with what works for you.
>>>> my save options
Credit where Credit is Due:
This tutorial was made possible by the following:
loleiasbits - I used her tutorial/essay as a guideline.
daynawashere at gosh_darn_icons - Her cropping skills are bad-ass, yo. Huge inspiration and duly credited. :)
_jems_ for her amazing Office screencaps that I used in this tutorial and for most of my recent Office icons. :)