The start of the day was chilly and sharp; the kind of cold that bites your fingers and numbs you toes. Luckily for us, it didn't stay that way, but let's not jump ahead. We had arranged for a private car, with driver, to take us to Lake Bafa, stopping en route at the three ancient cities of Priene, Miletus and Didyma. The sun was out by the time
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