Surprisingly I woke bright and breezy when my alarm went off at 5am. I needed to be at the bus-stop at Dongmun Rotary, a short walk from my hotel, at 6am. I got there 25 minutes early as I wrongly assumed I might struggle to find it. Dawn started to break as the 281 bus headed inland and by the time we reached Seongpanak at 6.30pm, the sky was red
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