Last night, arriving in Skaftafell at 8 pm (or, as they say here, 20:00), I took a seven hour hike from 10 ´til 5:30 so I could see the place. I can´t believe anybody else didn´t think to do the same thing; I was absolutely and totally alone for 23 km. I saw the sun set over one arm of the glacier and rise over another. I drank the glacial run-
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Doth vaunt of Hecla, whose sulphurious fire
Doth melt the frozen clime and thaw the sky!
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