Comments | valina_anne: Costume Nemesis

valina_anne

Costume Nemesis

Aug 07, 2007 16:01

I think I have worked out why I have trouble with necklines and sleeves - I have very strange shoulders. I was finishing off a smock last night and was considering the neckline and sleeves. I was going to have a high, ungathered neckline - but it just wouldn't lay nicely. The muscles are quite bumpy near my neck so when I wear high necklines it ( Read more... )

Comments 6

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Thanks valina_anne August 10 2007, 13:30:38 UTC

Thanks. I'm keep meaning to make some everyday clothes - which would be a good place to practice the back seam.

myladyswardrobe August 7 2007, 19:03:07 UTC

If you have a high necked smock, you do need shoulder seams. Also, there should be small triangular gussets set into the seams where the neck will on each side (right and left). Then you stitch the collar in place.

BTW - on another LJ, there has been discussion about trying to get a UK Costume College off the ground - see here: http://harmanhay.livejournal.com/328542.html
Would you be interested in coming to that/helping out?

Costume college] valina_anne August 10 2007, 13:29:24 UTC

It looks to be just that little too far away. If we get some good teachers I would be interested.

Re: Costume college] myladyswardrobe August 10 2007, 13:41:02 UTC

Its based in the Midlands so isn't that far away AND you'd stay over (either in the house or in a local hotel).

Peronel suggested Sarah Thursfield (Maggot in Kentwell) and Catherine and I both thought that Ninya's Tudor Tailor thoughts would be good.

And I'd be happy to teach basic classes such as blackwork or drawn threadwork/needlelace!

No idea if it would come off yet but who knows, it might do.

peronel August 7 2007, 20:12:00 UTC

I don't *think* an angled shoulder seam on smocks is documentable to 16thC. I haven't come across one, anyway, and my impression is they cut on the grain wherever possible.

However, what is correct is inserting a triangular gore just by the collar, which should help your fit issues no end. I can show you a neat way to do this at some point, if you like. It's easy when you know how but - like all these things - it's easiest to explain by showing.

Peronel (also not an easy shape to fit!)

Thank you valina_anne August 10 2007, 13:28:07 UTC

A triangular gore insertion demonstration would be lovely. Thanks.