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virginiadear August 10 2011, 12:51:17 UTC
You're keeping a diary of your work, right? With photos, too?

About the sleeve-setting, let me see if I understand this correctly: If you placed the sleeve over instead of under at the top, and under instead of over at the bottom, then right or wrong there's a point on the armscye where robe and sleeve just barely meet as the sleeve transitions from one position (under) to the other (over)?
Is that right?

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viennabelle August 10 2011, 15:29:44 UTC
Yes--there are places in the front and back where the seam flips. When I returned from class, I started looking at pics of period sleeves and that little lump is often visible. I don't think anyone knows why, but I think it might be to allow stronger stitches under the armpit. I'll take pictures when I sew it, which should be clearer.

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virginiadear August 10 2011, 19:03:39 UTC
I hope you'll take photos and share them in your journal! I find I'm now *veeerrrrrry* interested in seeing how these sleeves go into the armscye and how they work, and in seeing the little bumps.

By the way, I mentioned a diary with photos because I was thinking a detailed, photo-illustrated dress diary with lots of "I did this in this manner because...." notes, of the entire mantua-making process would make a good reference 'book.'

Was this "sleeve under at the top and over at the bottom" an American phenomenon; English; French; European?

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chloeandrudy August 14 2011, 04:12:21 UTC
I'm glad you found an "expert" to help you along. Trying to do stuff on my own rarely works, but I fudge along.

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