Parakeets in the urban canopy of electrical wires. The clear blue January sky and the mid-winter heat. Finding the only place in India that will serve me a bagel. This is why I love this city. The friends I've made here of Brahmin caste who will talk about their privlege only when calling the whole system bullshit (over a hookah, of course). Then ( Read more... )

I found Indonesian clove cigarettes.

And ate brains. Goat brains.


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It's been a while but I'll try and keep this update short - after Kanyakumari, Madurai and Trichy (a cockroach infested temple town) - I felt it was time for a little european pomp. So it was off to Pondicherry. The only colony the french ever had in India and you can still feel it. French is still spoken the streets, beef is everywhere and alcohol ( Read more... )

Took a train from Varkala down south. Speeding towards the equator with occasional breaks to let passengers off. The stop before the southern most tip of India and the car I was in was empty - except for a Frenchman names Charles. We sat opposite each other as the sun set, staring out the glassless window over golden mountains and green palms. We ( Read more... )

Out of the jungle and up to Trissur. The Guelph of India. An inglorious university town. I went expecting culture, promise, a view of the future of India - instead... Guelph. And I did not want to spend the holidays and my birthday in Guelph.

So I came to the beach! A wonderful place called Varkala. It's like Goa. Only infinately better. It's a ( Read more... )

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Two hours by trans-Kerala public bus from Kochi. A day in a Kothamangalum - a real south Indian city, big, a town where english was learned but never spoken. Sunset, the three of us eating fresh chapatti and curried chickpeas with our hands for a buck total. Darkness. Paul, Stephan and I line up in the methadone-clinic styled liquor store. The day ( Read more... )