The surf Thursday was ridiculously nice, glassy and just overhead. There I was in the water with too many friends while the surf was doing what all surfers wish for. Even though I only managed to get a couple I was stoked. I love the smell of neoprene and surf wax. I wish I had stayed out longer but work and stuff called to me. I should ignore ( Read more... )

I was out again this afternoon for a while. A new swell showed up to today under the fog. I went out on my 6'8 fish and got a couple of good ones. I have had the board for a week now and have had three nice sessions. It works really well and is really solidly build.

( Read more... )

I was glad the the surf settled down enough today that I could get out and burn off some of that Thanksgiving pie. I got there just as the waves and lineup started to fill in. The sand bar is a little different shape after the pounding it took this last week but it seems like there is even more sand there which is nice. The swell was 7 at 13 sec.

( Read more... )

So far this blue Don Takayama egg has cost me 15 cents a day to own for the last 8 years. Pennies a session really. I was out again yesterday on it in the pouring rain lowering my cost of ownership per wave. Conditions were chunky and stormy but still fun. The weather kept a lot of people home. Many waves were ridden. There are more waves coming. ( Read more... )

I could not have ordered up better weather for my week off from work. It is another beautiful day today. I got up just before dawn and drove through the early morning mist to find the break working and 7 other early risers enjoying the waves. I stayed out until the tide came in and shut it off. I rode the wooded fish. This morning's generous green ( Read more... )

Sarah and I road tripped up to Grant's Pass yesterday to pick up her new ram sheep. The trip could not have gone smoother and it was a beautiful afternoon for a drive. That drive is almost scenic overload and I got to be the passenger for the first half so I could take in the sights ( Read more... )

I had a pretty fun time at the beach this afternoon. When I got there about 1:00 the foggy was sitting so low the it was hard to make out the surf from the beach. I climbed around on the massive rocks for a while hoping to get a better look and giving the tide time to get a little lower. Once some other like minded folks started showing up I got ( Read more... )

I am ready for a vacation so I am off for the next week. My jobs isn't really physically demanding but it does demand my attention. It will be nice to have some time off. It looks like there will be some waves. They are here now as a matter of fact. If I listen out the window I can hear them rumbling in he distance. The forecast for tomorrow is 6 ( Read more... )

I took some photos today to remind sarahshevett how nice it can be here sometimes. Once December rolls around again and we are living in rainland, it can seem like the sun will never come out again. It could not have been nicer here today (except for the lack of December style surf of course).

( Read more... )

Happy Father's Day. My son was forced to endure the clear cold Pacific and shoulder high waves under a sunny sky. He's a good son for humoring his old man and helping him lug oysters to the festival.

( Read more... )